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Business
來源于《商業》板塊
Luxury goods
奢侈品
Unbedevilling Prada
沒有吸引力的普拉達
A fashion house tries to revive its creative spark—and its financial fortunes
時裝公司試圖重振創意火花和財富
For years after it listed its shares on the Hong Kong stock exchange in 2011, Prada’s business looked considerably blander than its iconoclastic blend of ugly chic, counterculture, politics and fashion. No longer. Its share price rose by a quarter in the three months to January, faster than at bigger luxury groups such as France’s LVMH or Kering. Investors liked the look of its new partnership with L’Oréal, a cosmetics giant, and of investments in online sales. But their enthusiasm was based chiefly on an expectation of more radical change: either a takeover by a bigger luxury conglomerate or an internal overhaul.
普拉達于2011年在香港證券交易所上市，多年后，其業務看上去要比它將丑陋的時髦、反主流文化、政治和時尚打破傳統的融合要溫和得多。事出有因。在截至1月份的3個月里，其股價上漲了四分之一，比法國路威酩軒集團或開云集團等規模更大的奢侈品集團的漲幅都要快。投資者喜歡它與化妝品巨頭歐萊雅的新合作，以及在線銷售的投資。但他們的熱情主要是基于對更激進變革的預期：要么由更大的奢侈品集團收購，要么進行內部改革。
A buyer has yet to signal interest. But on February 23rd Prada announced that Raf Simons, a cerebral industry star from Belgium who used to be the creative head of Christian Dior, a French label owned by LVMH, and of Calvin Klein, an American brand, will join the company. He will work alongside Miuccia Prada, the granddaughter of the company’s founder, as co-creative director. The duo will unveil their first joint collection in September. Both emphasised their intention to double down on creativity—and prevent the suits from calling all the shots.
收購者尚未表示出興趣。但在2月23日，普拉達宣布來自比利時的理性的行業明星拉夫·西蒙斯將加入公司，他曾是路威酩軒集團旗下的法國品牌克里斯汀•迪奧的創意總監，以及美國品牌卡爾文·克萊恩的創意總監。他將與公司創始人的孫女繆西婭•普拉達共同擔任創意總監。兩人將于9月推出他們的第一個聯合系列。雙方都強調了他們想要在創新上加倍努力的意愿，而不是讓套裝代表一切。
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