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時代周刊:咖啡在中國茶鄉普洱發展壯大

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(And here is a brief from China)Coffee gains ground in China's tea-growing heartland

(下面是一則來自中國的簡報)咖啡在中國茶鄉發展壯大
A DOZEN INTERNATIONAL COFFEE EXPERTS shuffle around a long wooden table, pausing at each steaming cup, heads dipping and sniffing deeply.
十幾位國際咖啡專家圍坐在一張長長的木桌旁,在每一杯熱氣騰騰的咖啡前停下腳步,探出頭來大口聞著。
Then the raucous slurping begins.
接著傳來了嘶嘶的吸水聲。
In the wings, coffee farmer Yang Fan watches intently as the judges circle, awaiting a verdict on her latest crop of beans.
在側廳里,種植咖啡的楊帆(音譯)專注地看著圍成一圈的評委們,等著他們給她最新種植的咖啡豆做出最后的評判。
China may be the spiritual home of tea, but it is fast developing a reputation as a top coffee producer.
中國或許稱得上是茶葉的精神故鄉,但中國作為頂級咖啡產地的聲譽也正在迅速躥升。
This tasting was a side event to the first ever Pu'er International Specialty Coffee Expo in China's southwestern Yunnan province,
此次品鑒會是位于中國西南地區的云南省舉辦的首屆普洱茶國際特產博覽會的一項附帶活動,
which ran this winter and drew more than a thousand attendees, including industry aicionados from across the globe.
今年冬季召開的這屆博覽會吸引了1000多名參會者,其中不乏來自世界各地的行業愛好者。
"Coffee has huge potential in China," says Liu Ying,
“咖啡在中國有著巨大的潛力,”劉瑩(音譯)說。
who swapped her life working in private-equity investment in Beijing to grow coffee in Pu'er five years ago.
五年前,她放棄了北京某私募股權投資公司的工作,在普洱市做起了咖啡種植生意。
"The younger generation prefer to drink cofee in their offices much more than tea."
“比起喝茶,年輕一代還是更喜歡在他們的辦公室喝咖啡。”
Still, Pu'er remains synonymous with tea.
不過,即便如此,普洱市依然是茶葉的代名詞。
This bustling town near the Laos border is surrounded by undulating green hills scored with tea plantations;
老撾邊境附近的這座繁華小鎮四周環抱著連綿起伏,種滿了茶園的青山;
it produces an eponymous variety of tea, considered one of China's most refined.
這里產一種和該市同名并且被認為是中國最精華的茶葉之一的普洱茶。
But the region's temperate climate is also perfect for growing arabica coffee.
不過,該地區溫和的氣候也非常適合種植阿拉比卡咖啡。
And as China's fast-living millennials move away from traditional tea in favor of the invigorating jolt of coffee,
隨著中國快速成長的千禧一代的喜好從傳統的飲茶轉向提神的咖啡,
Pu'er's farmers are catering to the demand.
普洱市的農民也開始迎合大家的這種需求。

1

Yunnan accounts for 98% of China's coffee harvest,

中國采收的咖啡云南就占了總量的98%,
with half coming from the mist-shrouded landscape around Pu'er.
其中又有一半都產自普洱地區。
Today, China is the 13th biggest coffee producer in the world—rising from zero output three decades ago to 136,000 tons annually today.
今天,中國已經成長為世界上的第13大咖啡生產國——年產量從30年前的零噸一躍為今天的13.6萬噸。
In April, Seattle's annual Specialty Coffee Expo decided to showcase China as its portrait country of origin.
今年4月,西雅圖一年一度的咖啡博覽會決定將中國作為本屆博覽會的展覽發源地。
It follows on the heels of Starbucks' launching its first single-origin Yunnan cofee last year after eight years of partnership with Yunnan farmers.
在此之前,在與云南農民合作了8年后,星巴克于去年推出了首個單一產地的云南咖啡。
With global coffee prices at record lows,
在全球咖啡價格處于創紀錄低位的情況下,
Yunnan farmers are processing beans in bespoke ways to create distinct flavors and aromas—
云南的農民正在以獨特的方式加工咖啡豆,以創造獨特的口感和香味——
allowing them to enter the market of specialty coffee.
籍此進入特產咖啡市場。
"At current coffee prices, I can't even feed my family," says the farmer Yang.
農民楊說:“以目前的咖啡價格,我連養家糊口都成問題。”
"My only way out is to produce specialty cofee, to make the best cofee beans."
“我唯一的出路就是種植特產咖啡,做出最好的咖啡豆?!?/div>
That means letting beans dry in their cherries, thus imparting a wild, fruity flavor via environmental fermentation.
這意味著讓豆子在櫻桃中風干,從而通過環境發酵產生一種野生的果香。
Or allowing them to "honey" in their sugary inner mucilage layer, which adds a subtle sweetness.
或者讓它們在含糖的內部黏液層中“浸泡在甜言蜜語之中”,增加微妙的甜味。
Back in the tasting room, Yang awaits the experts' verdict on whether all that extra effort was worthwhile.
回到品鑒室,楊正在等待專家們對這些額外努力是否值得做出評判。
"If I told you this was Colombian or Panama cofee, nobody would argue with me," says Samuel Gurel, CEO of Pu'er's Torch Cofee Roasters, as Yang breaks into a huge grin.
“如果我告訴你這是哥倫比亞或巴拿馬的咖啡,也不會有人有異議,”普洱火炬咖啡烘焙CEO塞繆爾·古雷爾說,楊不禁喜笑顏開。
"It's a great example of how Chinese coffee is evolving."
“這就是一個說明中國咖啡在不斷發展的好例子?!?/p>

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