BACKDROP:Steamed crabs at Virginia Beach Seafood Company, part seafood market and part pub, one of many outlets for crabs in the relaxed, family-friendly resort of Virgina Beach.

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The best place for eating, though, is the big outdoor terrace overlooking the Lynnhaven marina, where boats dock so occupants can feast onshore or aboard whether by sunlight or moonlight or - my favorite - twilight, when the departing sun casts a golden glow over air and water. This is the perfect setting in which to crack properly hot and spice-spiked crabs, size depending upon availability.

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