2:30 P.M. XIAO CHI STANDS
Heading west -- take a right as you exit Wistaria -- you'll hit two of this area's most popular xiao chi stands, or street-food stalls. Both usually have long lines, so bring a friend, a book or a lot of patience. (If you don't want to taste these foods here, there are clean, well-lighted restaurants later on in the walk.)
First, try the turnip cake at the stand at the corner of Heping East Road and Wenzhou Street (closed Sundays). One cake costs 75 U.S. cents. Taipei foodies swear by this stuff, and are willing to wait in nerve-straining lines to get their fix.
Next, order the pan-fried dumplings in the Shida Night Market -- it's called a night market, but food is served from the early afternoon through to the wee hours of the morning. Weave your way over to Longquan Street, and look for Xu Ji Sheng Jian Bao at No. 24, a food stall famous for this kind of dumpling. You can try just one for 20 cents, but most people buy five for 90 cents.
Exit the Shida market and backtrack your way north on Longquan Street -- you'll hit Yongkang Street after a leisurely 20-minute walk. This street boasts typical Taiwanese xiao chi, but in nicer surroundings than a typical night market.
Hao Ji Mei Shi Zhuan Mai Dian, on the west side of the street (No. 1, Lane 10), serves southern Taiwanese xiao chi -- local favorites include tu tuo yu gen, a hearty soup with chewy, breaded lumps of fish, and crispy oysters with pepper (in the local Taiwanese dialect, Minnan, this dish is called oasu; in Mandarin, it's ke zi su). A small bowl of the soup costs $1.50 and a small dish of oasu runs $3.
Heading north on the same side of Yongkang Street, you'll hit the restaurant Yongkang Kou (No. 1, Lane 6). Here, if you dare, sample two of Taiwan's most famous dishes, stinky tofu or chou doufu ($1.30) for a small serving), which lives up to its name, and oysters in a broth with vermicelli-like noodles (oamisua in Taiwanese, $1.15 for a small bowl; $1.60 for a large one).
Now, cross to the other side of Yongkang Street, turn left (north), and look for Tu Hsiao Yueh (No. 9-1 Yongkang St.).
Here you can sample southern Taiwanese-style minced pork noodles (danzi mian), either dry or in soup. A small serving costs $1.50. Wash down your noodles with the island's standby brew, Taiwan Beer ('Taiwan pijiu' or 'Taipi' for short); one bottle costs $2.65.
下午2點半:小吃
從紫藤廬茶館出來向右拐,也就是徑直向西走,你會看到這一地區最受歡迎的兩家小吃攤。通常情況下,兩家店門口都會排起長隊,所以最好帶上個朋友,或者一本書,要么就要有足夠的耐心(如果你不想嘗試這里的食物,再往前走,我們待會兒還會去幾家干凈衛生、寬敞明亮的餐廳)。
首先,在和平東路和溫州街拐角的那家店嘗嘗他們的蘿卜糕(星期日不開門)。一塊蘿卜糕的價格是75美分。臺北的食客們很喜歡吃這玩意,寧愿去排令人頭疼的長隊,也要滿足自己的口腹之欲。
接著,在師大夜市點一份鍋貼。這里雖然叫做夜市,但是從午后到凌晨一直都在營業。穿過擁擠的人群走到龍泉街,找到24號因為生煎包而聞名的“許記生煎包”。你可以花20美分買一個嘗嘗,但是大多數人一般都會花90美分買五個。
從師大夜市出來,沿著龍泉街向北往回走,慢行20分鐘后,你會走到永康街。這條街因有傳統的臺灣小吃而頗有名氣,而且這里的環境要比傳統的夜市好一些。
在永康街路西(10巷1號),有一家“郝記美食專賣店”(音),在這里可以吃到臺灣南部的小吃。當地人最喜歡的小吃中包括土?魚羹──醇厚料足的羹湯,配上炸過的魚塊,以及蚵仔酥──煎炸過的脆脆的牡蠣,再配上胡椒。小碗土 魚羹的價格是1.5美元,而小碗蚵仔酥的價格為3美元。
沿著永康街西側往北走,你會看到“永康口”飯店(6巷1號)。如果你夠膽量,可以在這里嘗嘗臺灣最有名的兩種小吃,臭豆腐(一小塊兒1.3美元)──味道也名符其實和蚵仔面線(1.15美元一小碗,1.6美元一大碗)。
現在,到永康街的另一側,向左拐(往北走),去找一家名為“度小月”的飯店(永康街9-1號)。
在這里,你可以品嘗一下臺南風味的擔仔面,分干面和湯面兩種。一小碗的價格是1.5美元。一邊吃著面條,一邊還可以喝著本地產的臺灣啤酒(簡稱“臺啤”),一瓶臺啤的價格是2.65美元。