12 P.M. DA AN PARK
Lunch time. As you leave the tea shop, turn right and continue west on Lane 180, Rui An Street, which turns into Lane 151, Jianguo South Road.
The restaurant at No. 53 Lane 151 on your right is Mei Xiang La Mian Wu (open 12 p.m. to 2 p.m. for lunch, and 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. for dinner). Order the 'clerk's pulled noodles' (xiao er lao mian in Mandarin), a light Chinese-style lunch. You'll get a pile of noodles with a generous dollop of minced beef in sauce, garnished with scallions and cilantro. Mix up the noodles and sauce before eating, then slurp away. This northern Chinese dish was popularized here by mainlanders who came in the late 1940s. A big bowl will cost you $2.20; a small bowl, $1.75.
After lunch, take a long walk through Da An Park. This 26-hectare patch of green is Taipei's answer to New York City's Central Park. On weekends, it's packed with rollerblading kids, dog-crazy Taipei urbanites walking their canines and bicyclists.
You'll enter on the east side of the park across from a public library. Make your way through to the southwest corner of the park -- you can take the shaded jogging path on your left, which runs along the edge of the entire park. The exit is across from a Sizzler steak house.
From the park exit, cross Xinsheng South Road, take a left and follow the road south. You'll come to the Wistaria Tea House (No. 1, Lane 16). This famous Taipei teahouse has recently re-opened after a long renovation.
Back in the days of martial law (1949 to 1987), democracy activists gathered here over pots of oolong tea to strategize. Now, it's an obligatory stop for local tea-lovers. The shop boasts a wide variety of Taiwan- and mainland-grown teas, served in a cozy, Japanese colonial-era setting, with low tables, tatami mats and partitions, as well as a no-shoe policy in some rooms.
Try the Bai Hao or 'Oriental Beauty' oolong ($9) -- grown with the help of katydid (an insect related to a grasshopper) saliva. (The tea tastes better than it sounds.) Or have a sip of some Dong Ding oolong ($8) grown in central Taiwan. Show-offs can shell out $90 for the 'Dragon and Horse Tong Qing Puer,' a 1920s-vintage puer tea.
中午12點:大安公園
午餐時間到了。從茶行出來,向右拐,繼續沿著瑞安街180巷往西走,就到了建國南路151巷。
右手邊的151巷53號是一家名為“美香拉面屋”的餐館(午餐中午12點至下午2點提供,晚餐下午5點至晚上8點提供)。點“小二拉面”,品嘗一下簡單的中式午餐。你會吃到一大碗拉面,很大份量的牛肉醬,上面還撒著大蔥和香菜。吃前先把面條和肉醬拌勻,然后一掃而光。這道北方面食是在二十世紀40年代末因為來到此地的大陸人而風行開來的。大碗的價格是2.2美元,小碗的價格是1.75美元。
午餐后,你可以在大安森林公園里散散步。這片占地26公頃的綠地是紐約中央公園的臺北翻版。周末的時候,你會看到孩子們在公園里滑旱冰,熱衷養狗的臺北人溜狗,還有騎自行車的人,熙熙攘攘,好不熱鬧。
從東門進入大安公園后(入口的對面是一家公共圖書館),往公園的西南角走──你可以沿著左手邊樹蔭遮蔽的慢跑小道步行,這條小道環繞公園一周。出口的正對面是一家“時時樂”(Sizzler)牛排館。
從公園出來,穿過新生南路,再往左拐,一直往南走,便會來到紫藤廬茶館(門牌號為16巷1號)。這家知名的臺北茶館在經過長時間的重新裝修后最近剛剛開張。
早在臺北實施戒嚴時期(1949年至1987年),民主運動人士會在這里聚集,要上幾壺烏龍茶,制定他們的行動計劃。現在,這家茶館成了當地愛茶人士們必去的地方。你可以在這里品嘗到在臺灣和大陸種植的各式茶葉。紫藤廬茶館不僅環境舒適,還保留有日本殖民時代的布局,低矮的桌子、榻榻米,還有小隔間。有些房間還不允許穿鞋。
試試又名“東方美人”茶的白毫(9美元)──這種茶葉是在蟬蟲的叮咬吸食下生長起來的。(這聽上去讓人卻步,但這種茶喝起來還不錯)。要么呷一口臺灣中部種植的凍頂烏龍茶(8美元)。愛擺譜的人可以花上90美元買一塊上世紀20年代的陳年普洱茶──“龍馬同慶普洱茶”。