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此時(shí)蜜糖,彼時(shí)砒霜(11)

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If sugar consumption is a slippery slope, then advocating moderation is not a meaningful concept.

如果糖的攝入在走滑坡,那么提倡適度就不是一個(gè)有意義的概念。

In my own mind, I keep returning to a few observations – unscientific as they may be – that make me question the validity of any definition of moderation in the context of sugar consumption.

在我看來(lái),我一直在回想一些觀察結(jié)果——盡管它們可能不科學(xué)——它們讓我質(zhì)疑在攝入糖的情況下任何關(guān)于“適度”這一定義的有效性。

The roots of the modern discussion on sugar and disease can be traced to the early 1670s. Thomas Willis, medical adviser to the duke of York and King Charles II, noted an increase in the prevalence of diabetes in the affluent patients of his practice. "The pissing evil", he called it, and became the first European physician to diagnose the sweet taste of diabetic urine – "wonderfully sweet like sugar or honey". Willis's identification of diabetes and the sweetness of the urine happens to coincide with both the first flow of sugar into England from its Caribbean colonies, and the first use of sugar to sweeten tea.

關(guān)于糖和疾病的現(xiàn)代討論可以追溯到17世紀(jì)70年代早期。約克公爵和國(guó)王查爾斯二世的醫(yī)療顧問(wèn)托馬斯·威利斯注意到,在他的診所里,富裕的患者中糖尿病的發(fā)病率有所上升。他稱其為“可惡的惡魔”,并成為第一個(gè)診斷糖尿病患者尿液甜味的歐洲醫(yī)生——“像糖或蜂蜜一樣的美妙的甜味”。威利斯對(duì)糖尿病以及尿液甜味的診斷恰好和糖第一次從加勒比海殖民地流入英國(guó)以及糖第一次用來(lái)增加茶的甜味這兩件事同時(shí)發(fā)生。

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Other observations that resonate with me when I wrestle with the concept of moderation include one of Frederick Slare's comments in 1715, in his article "Vindication of Sugars Against the Charges of Dr Willis". At a time when sugar was just beginning to be more widely consumed in England, Slare noted that women who cared about their figures but were "inclining to be too fat" might want to avoid sugar, because it "may dispose them to be fatter than they desire to be". When Slare made his observation, the English were consuming, on average, perhaps 51b of sugar a year. The US FDA research suggests we now consume 42lb a year.

當(dāng)我在思考“適度”的概念時(shí),其他一些觀察與我產(chǎn)生了共鳴,包括1715年弗雷德里克·斯雷在一篇名為《為糖辯護(hù),駁斥威利斯博士的指控》的文章中的一段評(píng)論。當(dāng)時(shí)糖在英國(guó)剛開(kāi)始流行,斯雷指出,那些在意身材但“有發(fā)胖傾向”的女性可能會(huì)避免吃糖,因?yàn)樘恰翱赡軙?huì)讓她們變得比自己希望的更胖”。斯雷在做他的觀察時(shí)英國(guó)人平均每年消耗大約5磅(約4.5斤)的糖。而美國(guó)食品和藥物管理局的研究表明,現(xiàn)在我們每年消耗的糖達(dá)42磅(約38斤)。

We have to acknowledge that the evidence against sugar is not definitive, compelling though I personally find it to be. Let's say we randomly assigned individuals in our population to eat a modern diet with or without sugar in it. Since virtually all processed foods have sugar added or, like most breads, are made with sugar, the population that is asked to avoid sugar would simultaneously be avoiding virtually all processed foods as well. They would dramatically reduce their consumption of what journalist Michael Pollan, author of books on food, agriculture and drugs, has memorably called "food-like substances", and if they were healthier, there would now be a host of possible reasons why. Maybe they ate fewer refined grains of any type, less gluten, fewer trans fats, preservatives or artificial flavourings? We would have no practical way to know for sure.

我們必須承認(rèn),反對(duì)吃糖的證據(jù)并不明確,盡管我個(gè)人認(rèn)為很有說(shuō)服力。假設(shè)我們?cè)谌巳褐须S機(jī)分配一些人,讓他們吃含糖或不含糖的現(xiàn)代飲食。因?yàn)閹缀跛械募庸な称范继砑恿颂?,或者像大多?shù)的面包一樣都是用糖做的,所以被要求不吃糖的人群實(shí)際上也在同時(shí)避免吃所有的加工食品。邁克爾·波倫專著于食品、農(nóng)業(yè)和藥品方面的書籍,同時(shí)也是記者,他將這種食物稱為“類食物物質(zhì)”,這一稱呼令人印象深刻。如果它們更健康,現(xiàn)在有很多可能的原因?;蛟S他們少吃任何類型的精制谷物,少吃麩質(zhì),少吃反式脂肪,少吃防腐劑或人工調(diào)味料?我們沒(méi)有實(shí)際的方法來(lái)確定。

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strike [straik]

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n. 罷工,打擊,毆打
v. 打,撞,罷工,劃

 
observation [.ɔbzə'veiʃən]

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n. 觀察,觀察力,評(píng)論
adj. 被設(shè)計(jì)用來(lái)

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dispose [di'spəuz]

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vt. 傾向于,處置
vi. 銷毀

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conference ['kɔnfərəns]

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n. 會(huì)議,會(huì)談,討論會(huì),協(xié)商會(huì)

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affluent ['æfluənt]

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adj. 富裕的
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slope [sləup]

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n. 傾斜,斜坡,斜面,斜線,斜率
vt. 使

 
sweeten ['swi:tn]

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v. (使)變甜,使愉悅,凈化

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context ['kɔntekst]

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definition [.defi'niʃən]

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n. 定義,闡釋,清晰度

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