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Small Farms in New York are Experiencing a Surprising Boom, Here is Why
紐約小農(nóng)場生意意外興旺的背后
One Wednesday in early March, Abra Morawiec realized something seismic was happening at her farm stand.
3月初的一個(gè)星期三，阿布拉·莫拉維克意識到，她的農(nóng)場即將迎來巨變。
The month had been pretty quiet at the Feisty Acres table in the Union Square Greenmarket in Manhattan.
過去一個(gè)月，曼哈頓聯(lián)合廣場農(nóng)貿(mào)市場的Feisty Acres攤位一直頗為冷清。
But that day, at the very start of social distancing, she had sold out of everything by 2 p.m.
然而，就在隔離開始的那天，才到下午兩點(diǎn)，莫拉維克的攤位就已售空。
"I had to go home three hours early," Ms. Morawiec said.
“我只能比平時(shí)早三個(gè)小時(shí)回家了，”莫拉維克說。
After wondering whether her small farm on the North Fork of Long Island would survive the pandemic, this was good news.
對之前還在擔(dān)心她位于長島北福克的小農(nóng)場是否能撐到疫情結(jié)束的莫拉維克來說，這倒是個(gè)好消息。
But the boom for Feisty Acres has coincided with a virtual collapse at large-scale operations like Crescent Duck Farm, also based on Long Island.
然而，F(xiàn)eisty Acres的生意是興旺起來了，同樣位于長島的Crescent鴨場等大規(guī)模經(jīng)營的買賣卻已走到破產(chǎn)邊緣。
In operation for more than a century, Crescent produces a million ducks a year — about 4 percent of the industry total —
經(jīng)過100多年的運(yùn)營，如今的Crescent鴨場年銷量已達(dá)100萬只——約占行業(yè)總數(shù)的4%——
and was the supplier of choice for fine-dining restaurants in New York, including Jean-Georges and the River Cafe.
是Jean-Georges，River Cafe等紐約高級餐廳的首選供應(yīng)商。
Those restaurants are closed now, and Crescent has been forced to lay off 80 percent of its workers.
由于疫情期間這些餐廳都已歇業(yè)，Crescent被迫裁掉了80%的員工。
When the lockdown came to the metropolitan area, the earth shifted under New York's farm-to-table supply chain.
當(dāng)大都會(huì)地區(qū)也開始封城以后，紐約地區(qū)農(nóng)場到餐桌的供應(yīng)鏈已經(jīng)發(fā)生了翻天覆地的變化。
All farms are reckoning with the disappearance of the restaurant market and the logistics of getting food directly to consumers.
所有農(nóng)場現(xiàn)在都在考慮餐飲市場消失后自己的出路，考慮將石材直接送到消費(fèi)者手中的物流問題。
But the agricultural landscape has completely reversed.
問題是，整個(gè)農(nóng)業(yè)的形勢已經(jīng)徹底逆轉(zhuǎn)。
Farms with a single crop meant for use in restaurants, like microgreens or edible flowers, face disaster,
只為餐廳提供一種作物，如綠葉蔬菜或食用花卉等食材的農(nóng)場已經(jīng)陷入災(zāi)難，
while those with diverse offerings (and especially root vegetables) have become bulwarks of the social order.
而那些供應(yīng)多樣化食材(特別是根莖類蔬菜)的農(nóng)場已經(jīng)成為當(dāng)前社會(huì)秩序的中流砥柱。
After decades of struggle to prove they are sustainable businesses,
幾十年來，小型農(nóng)場一直在努力證明自己是可持續(xù)經(jīng)營，
small farms seem to be flourishing, while factory farms, in many cases, find themselves too big to pivot.
如今，他們似乎終于迎來了繁榮，相比之下，很多工廠化的農(nóng)場卻發(fā)現(xiàn)自己已經(jīng)尾大不掉。
Blue Star Farm, a 10-acre operation in the Hudson Valley north of New York City,
占地10英畝的Blue Star農(nóng)場位于紐約市北部哈德遜河谷地帶，
is feeling a kind of uncomfortable success since Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo issued a stay-at-home order.
自從州長安德魯·M·科莫發(fā)布了居家隔離的命令，該農(nóng)場迎來了堪稱令人不安的成功。
The farm's sales have increased during the quarantine.
隔離期間，該農(nóng)場的銷售額意外出現(xiàn)了顯著的增長。
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