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Much of the work is jeans finishing. In 2012, jeans production turnover in Vietnam was $600 million; by 2021, it is expected to double.
大部分的工作是牛仔褲的整理。2012年，越南的牛仔褲生產營業額為6億美元；到2021年，這一數字預計將翻一番。
On the industrial outskirts of Ho Chi Minh, at a run-down, warehouse-like plant behind an unassailable gate, about 200 young Vietnamese labored. The fluorescent lighting was poor and it was 100 degrees, easy. Large fans whirred to try to cool the room. It didn't work.
在胡志明市的工業郊區，在一扇無懈可擊的門后，有一家像倉庫一樣破舊的工廠，大約200名越南年輕人在那里勞動。熒光燈很昏暗，達到100度很容易。大扇子呼呼地扇動著，想給房間降溫。但并不管用。
Pristine midnight-blue jeans were piled high on metal tables and dollies. Young men in T-shirts, trousers—usually jeans—and knee-high rubber boots stuffed them into two dozen monster-sized washing machines. An inch of navy-blue water stood on the floor. The men did not wear gloves, and their hands were stained black.
嶄新的深藍色牛仔褲高高地堆在金屬桌子和洋娃娃上。穿著t恤、褲子(通常是牛仔褲)和高筒膠靴的年輕人把這些衣服塞進24個怪物大小的洗衣機里。地板上有一英寸深的深藍色廢水。男人們沒有戴手套，他們的手被染黑了。
Some of the machines were older types that require five gallons of water to wash one kilogram—three pairs—of jeans. Others were less piggy, using only a bit more than one gallon of water per kilo of jeans. Manufacturers "know how wasteful this is," my guide told me.
有些機器是老式的，需要五加侖的水來洗一公斤的牛仔褲——三條。其他機器則沒那么貪心，每公斤牛仔褲只消耗一加侖多一點的水。我的指導告訴我，制造商“知道這有多浪費”。
"Their business is about washing, not about worrying about the planet," a jeans expert told me.
“他們的工作是洗衣服，而不是擔心地球，”一位牛仔褲專家告訴我。
In the distressing room, young men and women were sanding jean knees and thighs by hand, like a carpenter works on wood. Some wore medical masks to prevent inhalation of denim dust, but most did not.
在這個令人痛苦的房間里，年輕的男男女女正在用手打磨牛仔褲的膝蓋和大腿，就像木匠在木頭上干活一樣。有些人戴著醫用口罩，以防止吸入丹寧布粉塵，但大多數人沒有。
The verve with which they attacked their assignment was alarming: Each pair went from virgin to wrecked in under a minute. The workers' focus was intense. One slip-up and their pay would be docked. At the time I visited, sanders processed at least 400 pairs of jeans a day, six days a week, not including overtime.
他們攻擊這項任務的氣魄是驚人的；每條褲子都在不到一分鐘的時間里從處女地變成了廢墟。工人們的注意力很集中。只要出一點差錯，他們的工資就會被扣掉。在我訪問的時候，桑德斯每天至少加工400條牛仔褲，每周6天，不包括加班。
And that was the hand distressers. The machine distressers worked even faster. I watched one woman—unmasked—tackle cutoff shorts with what looked like an oversized dental drill that emitted a scream so high-pitched it could crack crystal. She ground the front and back pockets and hems of those shorts to a fashionably holey state in 10 seconds. Six pairs a minute. All day long.
這就是手的苦惱。機器的解纜器工作得更快。我看到一個女人穿著一條沒有遮蓋的短褲，手上拿著一個看起來像大號牙鉆的東西，發出一聲尖銳的尖叫，聲音高得可以震碎水晶。她在10秒內將前后口袋和短褲的邊磨成時尚的洞狀。一分鐘六條。一整天都是如此。
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