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It came via Spain but Beatrice decreed that
這種發式從西班牙傳過來,貝阿特麗絲規定
the princesses as I'm calling them would wear this.
我所稱的那些公主要做這種發式
Anyway it's bound very tightly
總之,它綁得很緊
and then it's bound more loosely with a spiral ribbon,
然后用一根發帶松松地綁成螺旋狀
and hair sort of bulges out between bits of the ribbon
發帶間的頭發就會突出來
but very beautifully which was typical of Leonardo's touch
但非常漂亮,這是典型的達芬奇畫法
which Ambrogio De Predis doesn't do.
Ambrogio De Predis也會畫成這樣
His coatzoni on the Beatrice just goes down like a tube.
但他給貝阿特麗絲·德埃斯特畫的發垂就像一根管子直直垂下來
Its well enough and it's his sign of coatzoni
這個畫得很漂亮,是他特有的發垂
but there's no sense of the inner structure of it.
但我們看不出里面是怎么綁的
But that shows that
但這表明了
it's one of these very tightly grouped inner circle of sitter's.
畫中人是這群關系密切的核心集團中的一員
And you can begin by a process of elimination to take out
你可以先從排除法開始
who it might not be at least amongst the ones
排除那些至少不是
who would be portrayed in that way.
會被畫成這樣的人
Interviewer: I think the comparison with the Beatrice portrait
我覺得比較貝阿特麗絲的肖象
is interesting.
很有趣
One of the things that is striking about the difference
其中一個驚人的不同之處就是
I think is that Beatrice has all her fine jewellery
貝阿特麗絲戴著精美的珠寶
and very expensive ornaments.
非常貴重的裝飾物
And in the Prince Prese she doesn't.
但肖像中的公主卻沒有
Is that potentially because it's commemorative
是因為這幅畫是用來紀念的
rather than painted for a marriage,does that support that?
而不是用來征婚的嗎,這個說法成不成立?
Yeah,well one of the puzzling things
其中一個令人困惑的地方是
the costume has got the kind of knot designs
服裝有那種打結設計
which we know is associated with Leonardo so that's fine.
我們知道這是達芬奇的特色,所以這個沒問題
One of the more puzzling things,
但更令人困惑的是
in fact almost the only puzzling thing about it for me
事實上唯一一個令我困惑的是
is the fact that she doesn't have pearls.
她沒有戴珍珠
Ludovico in the court delighted in pearls.
Ludovico喜歡珍珠
Ludovico Ilmoro,the duke of Milan Ludovico
即米蘭公爵
had probably the best collection of pearls of anyone,
他收藏了最漂亮的珍珠
it was almost a fetish
他對珍珠幾乎到了癡迷的地步
and he used to give away pearl necklaces to wife
他經常會送珍珠給妻子
and to niece and so on.
和他侄女等等
And she's not got one.
但她沒有
But as I began to eliminate possibilities for who this was,
但當我開始排除畫中人不可能的人選時
I lighted on one potential sitter.
我注意到一個很有可能是畫中人的人
And this was Bianca Sforza.
她就是Bianca Sforza
Not to be confused with Bianca Maria who was Ludovico's niece
別把她和Bianca Maria弄混了,后者是Ludovico的侄女
and married Maximillium the Holy Roman Emperor.
嫁給了神圣羅馬帝國皇帝的Maximillium
His court name's rather painful
他的宮廷稱謂非常難讀
because a limited number of names are used in each generation.
因為每一代只有有限的幾個名字可以用
Anyway Ludovico had an illegitimate child,
總之Ludovico有一個私生女
we don't know when she was born
我們不知道她什么時候出生
but we can more or less work it out,called Bianca.
但我們可以猜到大概是什么時候,她叫Bianca
He went to enormous trouble to legitimise her.
他費了很大力氣才確立她的合法地位
And at the age of 13,maybe 14 but probably 13,
13歲的時候,也許是14歲,但更可能是13歲時
she was married to the commander of Ludovico's forces,
她嫁給了Ludovico軍隊的司令
who was an aristocrat called Galeazzo Sanseverino.
一個叫Galeazzo Sanseverino的上流貴族
And within four months she was dead.
四個月后她就死了
It was recorded that
據記載
the doctors said she had a pasioni delstomarco,
醫生說她肚子有毛病
some kind of ectopic pregnancy.
應該是一種宮外孕
She was expected to produce children straight away
她馬上就要產子
and it may have been too much for her
但她身體吃不消
as a 13 year old child bearing at that point.
她那時才13歲就要懷孕了
Anyway she dies within four months and if you think about it
總之她四個月后就死了,細想一下
this is a portrait of a very young woman
畫中人是一個很年輕的女人
just on the edge of maturity at the age
剛剛開始成熟,這個年紀的女人
when these women tended to be married.
通常都是已經嫁人的了
It was a life of luxury but also enforced,not enslavement
這種生活榮華富貴,但也是被強迫的,雖然沒有被奴役
but certainly a very circumscribed social and reproductive role.
但肯定是在社交方面受到限制的一個生殖工具這樣的角色
