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For the Travel section’s Oct. 19 issue on Europe, writers and editors selected special items to profile from a dozen cities. Below, explore everything from chocolate in Brussels to silk in Florence to design in Copenhagen.
在歐洲版10月19日旅游板塊，作者與編輯精選了十二個城市的獨特珍寶，下面，我們從布魯塞爾的巧克力、佛羅倫薩的絲綢到哥本哈根的設(shè)計，逐一欣賞吧。
Budapest: Paprika
布達(dá)佩斯的紅辣椒
The job of preparing Hungarian paprika was once considered too dangerous for mothers to do. The peppers grown in Szeged — one of the country’s two primary paprika-producing regions — were so spicy that a woman who touched her children upon returning from work risked burning them, so only the elderly and unmarried were allowed the delicate task of separating the membrane from the flesh. But by the early 20th century, sweeter varieties and a machine that extracted the veins turned paprika into an equal opportunity employer and a common feature of all Hungarian cuisine. “Goulash, porkolt, the cold cheese spread called korozott that all Hungarians eat on bread at least once a month,” said the Budapest-based food journalist Dorottya Czuk. “All of our basic dishes have it.”
匈牙利人曾經(jīng)認(rèn)為，讓媽媽來加工匈牙利紅辣椒太危險了。這種辣椒生長在全國兩大辣椒產(chǎn)地之一賽格德，它實在太辣了，如果一位母親加工辣椒時不小心摸了孩子，孩子可能會被灼傷。所以，把一層薄膜從辣椒果肉上剝離，這種工作只能由年長者或未婚人士專職去做。但到了20世紀(jì)早期，出現(xiàn)了味道較淡的品種，人們又發(fā)明了抽出辣椒脈絡(luò)的機器，于是加工辣椒就成了人人可做的工種，香辣也成了匈牙利菜肴的共同特點。“燉牛肉、燉豬肉，用柯羅佐冷芝士搭配面包，我們匈牙利人每月至少吃一次。”布達(dá)佩斯的美食記者多洛緹婭·查克(Dorottya Czuk)說。“這些基本菜肴中都有紅辣椒。”
So omnipresent is paprika that you can get it at any Budapest supermarket, but the chains offer no guarantee of quality or origin. “It might be from Spain or, worse, China,” Ms. Czuk said. “I can tell you that nine Hungarians out of 10 would not want to eat paprika grown in Spain.” Look instead for tins, like those from Molnar or Hodi, that are produced locally.
紅辣椒無處不在，你可以在布達(dá)佩斯任何一家超市買到，但卻無法保證質(zhì)量或正宗口味。“說不定你買到的辣椒是西班牙制造的，甚至更糟糕，中國制造。”查克女士說。“我敢說十個匈牙利人有九個都不想吃西班牙紅辣椒。”所以你要尋找那些罐裝的紅辣椒，比如產(chǎn)自摩爾那或霍迪的，那些才正宗。
The Central, or Great, Market Hall is a good place to start. Built at the end of the 19th century its soaring brick, iron and tile exterior alone is worth visiting. But three stories of stalls inside hold their own delights, paprika chief among them. On Fridays and Saturdays, farmers sell their homemade spice in transparent plastic bags. “That’s good,” Ms. Czuk said, “because you can see how red it is. You want a really vibrant color.”
中央集市或曰大集市是一個好起點。房屋建于19世紀(jì)末，僅僅是那高聳的磚墻、鐵欄和瓷磚貼面就值得游覽一趟了。集市里有三層攤位，擺滿了讓本地人自豪的特產(chǎn)，主要就是紅辣椒。每到周五和周六，農(nóng)人們就把自家種植的香料裝在透明塑料袋里來此地兜售。“很好。”查克女士說，“因為你可以隔著袋子看到它有多紅。你會想要真正熱烈的顏色。”
Aroma is also important: Fresh paprika should smell sweet and a little funky, like hay in a stable. And there are different categorizations: kulonleges, or “special quality,” is the mildest and sweetest; eros is the spiciest. But taste is the most important guarantor. Paprika is cheap enough (100 grams of even the highest quality spice cost around $2) that you can buy some, try it and feel that you haven’t wasted much money if you don’t like it.
氣味也很重要：新鮮的紅辣椒聞起來應(yīng)該略淡，有一絲臭味，像馬廄中的干草。而且有不同的分類法：庫隆勒格斯意為特殊品質(zhì)，指的是最溫和、最淡的；艾洛斯則是最辣的。但口味是最重要的保證。紅辣椒非常便宜（最優(yōu)質(zhì)的辣椒粉售價僅為100克2美元），可以買些嘗嘗，即使不合口味，也不費多少錢。
At Tasting Table it’s possible to forgo that step. The brand-new shop, at Brody Sandor utca 9, in the cellar of a 19th-century palace, features Hungarian wines and local specialty foods. It offers tastings of all its products, including Molnar and Hodi paprikas. “We spread goose fat from the foie gras we serve on bread, and sprinkle the paprika on that, said Gabor Banfalvi, a co-owner. “Because paprika needs fat to come to life.” LISA ABEND
在嘗味臺(Tasting Table)，更是免不了這一步。這家全新的店鋪位于布羅迪山鐸9號一座19世紀(jì)宮殿的地下室里，專營匈牙利酒與本地特產(chǎn)美食。店內(nèi)所有食品都可以品嘗，包括摩爾那和霍迪紅辣椒。“我們面包上涂抹的是從鵝肝醬中提取的鵝脂，再撒上辣椒粉。”店主之一嘉寶·山鐸(Gabor Banfalvi)說。“因為紅辣椒需要脂肪才能更好地展現(xiàn)辣味。”麗莎·阿本德(LISA ABEND)供稿。
