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昆蟲食品引發(fā)下一波飲食潮流

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As a water planner in Utah, Pat Crowley had grown frustrated that his message of conservation was being largely ignored by an agriculture industry intent on siphoning off the Colorado River to keep crops in California and other Western states succulent.

帕特·克勞利原本是美國(guó)猶他州的一名水資源規(guī)劃師,他一直熱衷于傳播水資源保護(hù)理念。但農(nóng)業(yè)界一心只想著如何從科羅拉多河抽取河水來(lái)滋養(yǎng)加利福尼亞州和西部其他州的農(nóng)作物,對(duì)于他的理論基本上置若罔聞,這讓克勞利非常沮喪。
Then a few years ago, the 34-year-old whitewater rafting enthusiast was listening to a TED talk on edible insects, which touted the critters as a surprising potent source of protein. The more he heard about the potential water savings from swapping insects for traditional protein like soy and grains, the more he realized it might be time to change professions.
幾年前,這位34歲的漂流愛(ài)好者有機(jī)會(huì)聆聽了一場(chǎng)TED演講,主題是可食用昆蟲。演講者把這些小動(dòng)物譽(yù)為驚人的蛋白質(zhì)來(lái)源。而且,放棄諸如大豆和谷物這類傳統(tǒng)的蛋白質(zhì)來(lái)源,轉(zhuǎn)而利用小昆蟲,顯然具有節(jié)約用水的巨大潛力。他越聽越覺(jué)得,可能是時(shí)候改變職業(yè)了。

昆蟲食品:下一波飲食潮流?

After toying with farming insects in 2011 for animal feed, Crowley, his wife Erica Koltenuk, co-founder Dan O’Neill and several friends set up shop in a local restaurant in Salt Lake City and began experimenting with making flour from crickets. Yes, crickets– through a process whereby the bugs are roasted, ground into a powder, and added to a mixture that also includes organic dates, nuts and spices.

2011年,在抱著玩玩的心態(tài)飼養(yǎng)了一些用于動(dòng)物飼料的昆蟲之后,克勞利和妻子埃里卡o科爾特努克、聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人丹o奧尼爾以及幾個(gè)朋友在鹽湖城開設(shè)了一家餐廳,開始嘗試著以蟋蟀為原料制作面粉。是的,以蟋蟀為原料。具體流程是,先焙燒這些小蟲子,研磨成粉,然后將它們添加到一種還包括有機(jī)棗,堅(jiān)果和香料的混合物之中。
A year later, they unveiled Chapul cricket bars, the first-ever energy bar made from cricket flour. The bars, each containing the equivalent of 25 crickets and claiming to contain twice the protein of their competitors, are now in over 200 health food, bike and extreme sports stores nationwide—the latest being Colorado-based Natural Grocers, a chain of 100 stores in the Midwest and West.
一年后,他們推出第一款使用蟋蟀粉制作的能量棒——Chapul蟋蟀棒。每個(gè)能量棒包含大約25只蟋蟀,其蛋白質(zhì)含量據(jù)說(shuō)是競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手的兩倍。現(xiàn)在,這款能量棒已經(jīng)進(jìn)入200多家位于全美各地的保健食品、單車和極限運(yùn)動(dòng)商店。最新一家合作伙伴是總部位于科羅拉多州,在中西部和西部地區(qū)擁有100家門店的Natural Grocers連鎖零售公司。
“I decided to create a consumer product that would make it a very easy first step for people to try insects in a way that wasn’t a novelty but incorporate it into a staple food – make it more of a nutritional product,” says Crowley, who has long blond hair and bears a passing resemblance to the late Kurt Cobain. “This was definitely a mission-driven endeavor. It turns out the market has been responsive to it.”
克勞利說(shuō),“我決定創(chuàng)建一種消費(fèi)產(chǎn)品,讓人們很容易邁出品嘗昆蟲的第一步,因?yàn)檫@種食品把昆蟲融入一種主食,這樣它就更像是一種營(yíng)養(yǎng)產(chǎn)品,這種吃法不算特別新奇?!绷糁活^金色長(zhǎng)發(fā)的克勞利看上去頗像已故歌星科特o柯本?!斑@是一次完全受使命感推動(dòng)的嘗試。事實(shí)證明,市場(chǎng)對(duì)我們的努力做出了響應(yīng)?!?/div>
The bar got a huge boost when Crowley, dressed in a Chapul T-shirt and carrying a container of crickets, was selected to appear in March on the entrepreneur show Shark Tank, the hit business competition show on ABC in which entrepreneurs pitch their ideas to a panel of judges. After initial reactions of “you gotta be kidding” and “there is no way I’m eating that,” the panel warmed to the product—and panelist and Dallas Mavericks owner Mark Cuban agreed to invest $50,000 for a 15 percent stake in the business (“Let’s eat some crickets,” he told Crowley).
3月份,當(dāng)克勞利身穿Chapul T恤,攜帶一個(gè)裝滿蟋蟀的容器出現(xiàn)在ABC電視臺(tái)收視率極高的創(chuàng)業(yè)節(jié)目《鯊魚坦克》(SharkTank) 時(shí),這種能量棒的知名度瞬間暴漲。參與這檔商業(yè)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)節(jié)目的創(chuàng)業(yè)者往往需要使出渾身解數(shù),向一組評(píng)委推銷他們的創(chuàng)業(yè)點(diǎn)子。乍一聽克勞利介紹完,評(píng)委們紛紛表示,“你肯定是在開玩笑,”“我絕對(duì)不會(huì)吃這玩意,”但他們隨后對(duì)這款產(chǎn)品產(chǎn)生了濃厚興趣。擔(dān)任評(píng)委的達(dá)拉斯小牛隊(duì) (Dallas Mavericks)老板馬克o庫(kù)班當(dāng)場(chǎng)拍板,承諾將投資5萬(wàn)美元購(gòu)買這家公司15%的股權(quán)(“讓我們吃一些蟋蟀吧,”他告訴克勞利)。
“It’s a solution to a problem,” Cuban said via Twitter. “We need better sources of protein and over time I think consumer habits will change.”
“這是一個(gè)解決問(wèn)題的方法,”庫(kù)班通過(guò)Twitter表示。“我們需要更好的蛋白質(zhì)來(lái)源,假以時(shí)日,我認(rèn)為消費(fèi)習(xí)慣會(huì)發(fā)生變化?!?/div>
In fact, Chapul is just one of a dozen or more new companies attempting to change the way Americans look at bugs. Brooklyn-based Exo is making protein bars, Boston-based-Six Foods is planning to sell tortilla chips made from cricket flour, and All Things Bugs, a Gainesville, FL-based firm founded by an entomologist, is looking to sell its own cricket flour to this burgeoning market. EnviroFlight in Ohio and AgriProtein in South Africa, meanwhile, are among at least four companies globally producing insects for the pet food, aquaculture or animal feed markets.
事實(shí)上,除了Chapul之外,還有十幾家新公司正在嘗試著改變?nèi)藗兛创±ハx的方式。布魯克林的EXO公司正在制作蛋白質(zhì)能量棒。波士頓Six Foods公司打算銷售用蟋蟀粉制作的墨西哥炸玉米片。總部位于佛羅里達(dá)州蓋恩斯維爾,由一位昆蟲學(xué)家創(chuàng)建的All Things Bugs公司也計(jì)劃向這個(gè)新興市場(chǎng)銷售自己的蟋蟀粉。與此同時(shí),至少有四家公司正在全球各地針對(duì)寵物食品,水產(chǎn)養(yǎng)殖或動(dòng)物飼料市場(chǎng)生產(chǎn)昆蟲,比如俄亥俄州的EnviroFlight公司和南非的AgriProtein公司。
The big opportunity they see: the consumption of insects as protein is much less taxing on the environment—growing, harvesting and processing them takes far less resources than chickens, cows and pigs, one percent of the greenhouse gasses of cattle and 100 times less water—so they tap into the current sustainability craze. They’re rich in protein and other key nutrients like omega-3 acids. And the products can be made at a low cost—until now, with very little competition.
他們看到了一個(gè)大機(jī)遇:消費(fèi)昆蟲蛋白質(zhì)對(duì)環(huán)境的損害要遠(yuǎn)低于傳統(tǒng)蛋白質(zhì)來(lái)源——與雞、牛和豬相比,飼養(yǎng)、收獲和加工昆蟲耗費(fèi)的資源要少得多。因此,這類食品特別容易撥動(dòng)熱衷于可持續(xù)發(fā)展理念的當(dāng)代人的心弦。昆蟲含有豐富的蛋白質(zhì)和諸如ω-3脂肪酸這類關(guān)鍵的營(yíng)養(yǎng)素。這類產(chǎn)品的制作成本相對(duì)較低,而且直到目前,競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手寥寥無(wú)幾。
But convincing Americans to eat anything containing creepy crawlers is not an easy sell. Unlike the developing world, where the U.N.’s Food and Agriculture Organization estimates that two billion people depend daily on as many as 1,900 insect species for food, Americans and much of the West have long considered spiders, grasshoppers, crickets, flies and bees to be a nuisance that must be swatted away or stamped out.
但要說(shuō)服美國(guó)人吃任何一種以令人毛骨悚然的爬蟲為原料的食物,可不是一件容易做到的事情。不同于很多發(fā)展中國(guó)家——聯(lián)合國(guó)糧農(nóng)組織(Food and Agriculture Organization)估計(jì),有20億發(fā)展中國(guó)家人口每天依靠多達(dá)1,900種昆蟲為食——美國(guó)人和其他西方國(guó)家一向認(rèn)為蜘蛛、蝗蟲、蟋蟀、蒼蠅和蜜蜂皆是令人不勝其擾的小動(dòng)物,必須趕緊驅(qū)離,或者干脆當(dāng)場(chǎng)殲滅。
But Crowley and other edible insect aficionados are counting on younger, environmentally-conscious Millennials to move the sector beyond gag gifts like lollipops with scorpions or one-off bug buffets to become a staple in health food stores, snack stands and the larger food chain. The key, they say, is playing up the health benefits of eating products with insects while emphasizing bugs’ small environmental footprint.
但克勞利和其他可食用昆蟲愛(ài)好者正在把推動(dòng)這個(gè)行業(yè)的希望寄托在更年輕,更具環(huán)保意識(shí)的千禧一代身上,希望他們不只是把昆蟲食品當(dāng)作類似蝎子棒棒糖這種惡作劇禮物,或者一次性自助餐,還會(huì)推動(dòng)這類食品成為健康食品商店、小吃店和大食品連鎖店銷售的一種主食。他們聲稱,關(guān)鍵是要大力宣揚(yáng)吃昆蟲產(chǎn)品對(duì)健康的好處,同時(shí)要強(qiáng)調(diào)昆蟲食品的環(huán)境足跡要遠(yuǎn)小于傳統(tǒng)蛋白質(zhì)來(lái)源這一事實(shí)。
“We are trying to set up future generations with a more sustainable food system, one that is more resource efficient and one that is more adaptable to a more changing climate,” Crowley says.
“我們正在努力為子孫后代建立一個(gè)更具可持續(xù)性,更節(jié)約資源,更適應(yīng)氣候變化的食物系統(tǒng),”克勞利說(shuō)。
Rose Wang, co-founder of Six Foods, which in May raised $70,000 on Kickstarter to make its Chirps cricket chips and hopes to have the product in stores by fall, agrees. “It’s all about the vision of what eating insects can be,” Wang said in an e-mail interview, pointing out that the bugs are high in protein, low in fat, and can be raised humanely in small spaces, without antibiotics or growth hormones. “There is no question that insects are the most humane way to eat meat,” she says, “And as people become more cognizant of where their food comes from and how it is produced, they are becoming more open to new sustainable foods like insects.”
露絲o王認(rèn)同這種看法。五月份,這位Six Foods公司聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人在眾籌平臺(tái)Kickstarter上籌集了7萬(wàn)美元,開始制作Chirps蟋蟀條,她希望這款產(chǎn)品能夠在今年秋天進(jìn)入食品店。在接受電郵采訪時(shí),王女士表示,“這就是吃昆蟲能夠帶給我們的美好愿景?!彼赋?,昆蟲不僅具有高蛋白,低脂肪等特質(zhì),而且可以在小空間內(nèi)人性化飼養(yǎng),無(wú)需使用抗生素或生長(zhǎng)激素?!昂翢o(wú)疑問(wèn),昆蟲是最人性化的吃肉方式,”她說(shuō)?!半S著人們對(duì)于食物的來(lái)源和生產(chǎn)方式有了更深入的了解,他們?cè)絹?lái)越愿意接受像昆蟲這種全新的可持續(xù)性食物?!?/div>
Glen Courtright, CEO and founder of EnviroFlight, is going even further with the environmental approach. His company takes some of the estimated 36 million tons of food waste that ends up in landfills each year and feeds it to the larvae of black soldier flies. A protein meal and oil derived from the dehydrated fly larvae are then packaged and shipped to the pet trade–as well as fish and pig farmers who are clamoring for a protein substitute for fishmeal, which comes from already overfished oceans.
在環(huán)保之路上,EnviroFlight公司創(chuàng)始人兼CEO格倫o考特賴特走得更遠(yuǎn)。他的公司每年利用估計(jì)3,600 萬(wàn)噸運(yùn)送至垃圾填滿場(chǎng)的食品垃圾,來(lái)喂養(yǎng)被他稱為黑士兵的蒼蠅幼蟲。然后,衍生自脫水蠅蛆的蛋白粉和油被打包運(yùn)送到寵物市場(chǎng),以及養(yǎng)魚戶和養(yǎng)豬戶。這些農(nóng)民一直吵著要求獲得一種能夠替代魚粉的蛋白物質(zhì)——海洋已經(jīng)被過(guò)度捕撈,難以為繼。
EnviroFlight is also partnering with the feed industry around the world to provide its technology and know-how on raising insects for animal feed. Courtright expects to see growth of 50 percent this year, adding that he is struggling to keep up with demand.
此外,EnviroFlight正在與世界各地的飼料行業(yè)合作,為后者提供養(yǎng)育昆蟲飼料的技術(shù)和專業(yè)知識(shí)支持。考特賴特預(yù)計(jì)今年的業(yè)務(wù)量將增長(zhǎng)50%,他正在努力跟上不斷增長(zhǎng)的需求。
“Big business understands there has to be a fish meal replacement, a sustainable fish meal replacement,” said Courtright, who initially explored producing oil from insects, bacteria and then algae for biofuels before shifting to the feed sector. “They are seeing the viability of the product and they are understanding insect technologies are real and they are coming.”
考特賴特聲稱,“大企業(yè)明白,必須找到一種傳統(tǒng)魚粉的替代物,一種具有可持續(xù)性的替代物?!痹谵D(zhuǎn)向飼料行業(yè)之前,他起初嘗試著從昆蟲、細(xì)菌和藻類中提煉生物燃料?!八麄儗l(fā)現(xiàn)這種產(chǎn)品是可行的,意識(shí)到昆蟲技術(shù)不是騙局,就會(huì)找上門來(lái)?!?/div>
But will insects catch on as pizza did after World War II or sushi did in the 1970s?
但這些小動(dòng)物能否像比薩餅在二戰(zhàn)后,或壽司在20世紀(jì)70年代那樣風(fēng)行一時(shí)?
Some experts think the deluge of new insect-related companies could be a turning point in entomophagists’ (that’s those who advocate for insects as food) decades-long battle to get the six and eight-legged critters onto the plates of consumers.
數(shù)十年來(lái),食蟲學(xué)家(即那些主張食用昆蟲的人士)一直在竭力推動(dòng)六條腿和八條腿的小動(dòng)物進(jìn)入消費(fèi)者的餐盤。有專家認(rèn)為,與昆蟲相關(guān)的新企業(yè)不斷涌現(xiàn),或?qū)⒊蔀檫@種努力的轉(zhuǎn)折點(diǎn)。
“This is more than a blip. This is the beginning of a curve that will go steadily up,” said Montana State University Associate Prof. Florence V. Dunkel, a leading edible insect expert who organizes an annual bug buffet on campus each year featuring delicacies like wax moth larvae quesadillas, curried mealworms and Chinese stir fry made with crickets.
“這種現(xiàn)象不是曇花一現(xiàn),而會(huì)成為一條將穩(wěn)步上升的曲線的開端,”蒙大拿州立大學(xué)(Montana State University )副教授弗洛倫斯o鄧克爾說(shuō)。這位著名的食用昆蟲專家每年都在校園組織一場(chǎng)昆蟲自助餐,其中的特色佳肴包括蠟蛾幼蟲油炸玉米餅、用咖哩粉烹調(diào)的黃粉蟲和爆炒蟋蟀。
“There was the environment,” she says, ticking off forces that are driving interest in the new food group. “There was the need to have more nutrients. And then there was the openness of the Millennial generation to search out better ways to live,” she added. “It’s a no-brainer to begin to incorporate insects into our diet as a protein source.”
她列舉驅(qū)動(dòng)人們對(duì)這種全新食物類別產(chǎn)生興趣的力量,“當(dāng)時(shí)的環(huán)境,對(duì)更多營(yíng)養(yǎng)物質(zhì)的需要,還有就是千禧一代在搜尋更好生活方式時(shí)抱有的開放心態(tài),”她補(bǔ)充說(shuō)?!霸谶@些因素的推動(dòng)下,人們開始不假思索地把昆蟲作為一種蛋白質(zhì)來(lái)源融入我們的飲食?!?/div>
But while Dunkel predicts that shoppers in the next few years could find bags of frozen moth larvae next to the frozen shrimp, others, including the FAO, are more cautious. They say consumer products will remain a “niche market” for at least another generation, mostly attracting thrill-seeking Westerners as well as immigrant communities in the West pining for traditional insect favorites like grasshoppers from Mexico or Mopane worms from southern Africa.
不過(guò),雖然鄧克爾預(yù)測(cè)稱,在未來(lái)幾年,冷凍蛾幼蟲將與冷凍蝦一道出現(xiàn)在消費(fèi)者的購(gòu)物袋之中,但其他人,包括聯(lián)合國(guó)糧農(nóng)組織,都比較謹(jǐn)慎。他們表示,至少對(duì)下一代人來(lái)說(shuō),昆蟲消費(fèi)類產(chǎn)品將依然是一個(gè)“縫隙市場(chǎng)”,其主要受眾是尋求刺激的西方人,以及西方國(guó)家中渴望享受墨西哥蚱蜢或南部非洲可樂(lè)豆木蠕蟲等傳統(tǒng)昆蟲美食的移民社區(qū)。
The FAO’s Paul Vantomme, who coordinates the agency’s insect program, says he thinks the greatest potential is in the animal feed sector, noting that insects could represent up to 10 percent of the 150 million tons of protein sold each year in two decades. The insects would replace fishmeal and supplement soybean meal, Vantomme said.
負(fù)責(zé)協(xié)調(diào)糧農(nóng)組織昆蟲項(xiàng)目的聯(lián)合國(guó)官員保羅o旺托姆表示,他認(rèn)為最大的潛力將是動(dòng)物飼料領(lǐng)域。他指出,在未來(lái)20年每年售出的大約1,500萬(wàn)噸蛋白質(zhì)中,昆蟲的占比有望達(dá)到10%。在他看來(lái),昆蟲將取代魚粉,還將成為大豆粉的補(bǔ)充。
“China imports 30 million tons of soybean meal in order to supply its chicken and pig farms,” Vantomme says. “The average Chinese eats meat once a week, and that is expected to double in the next five years. That means they will be importing 60 million tons. Even China is looking for alternatives for these imports. For them, it’s a big problem.”
“為了滿足養(yǎng)雞場(chǎng)和養(yǎng)豬場(chǎng)的需要,中國(guó)每年進(jìn)口大約3,000萬(wàn)噸大豆粉,”旺托姆說(shuō)。“中國(guó)老百姓通常一周吃一次肉,他們的肉食需求預(yù)計(jì)將在未來(lái)5年翻一番。這意味著,他們將進(jìn)口6,000萬(wàn)噸。就連中國(guó)也開始為這些進(jìn)口飼料尋找替代品。對(duì)他們來(lái)說(shuō),這是一個(gè)大問(wèn)題。”
EnviroFlight’sCourtright also says he expects the animal feed sector to offer the most potential for investors. “For animal feed, definitely. For human feed, I don’t think the West is ready,” Courtright says. “We’re not that hungry yet. We are not starving and insects are not part of our culture.”
此外,EnviroFlight公司的考特賴特表示,他預(yù)計(jì)飼料行業(yè)將成為最有潛力吸引投資的領(lǐng)域。“對(duì)于飼料產(chǎn)業(yè)來(lái)說(shuō),肯定如此。但我不認(rèn)為西方公眾已經(jīng)做好了食用昆蟲的準(zhǔn)備,”考特賴特說(shuō)?!拔覀冞€沒(méi)有餓到那份上。我們目前還沒(méi)有體會(huì)到挨餓的滋味,也不具備吃昆蟲的文化傳統(tǒng)?!?/div>
Some of that trepidation was on display the other day at Fortune when several reporters said they were scared to even try samples of the Chapur coconut, ginger and lime or the peanut butter and chocolate bar. Much of the apprehension came from expecting to bite into a cricket, as famously seen on the TV show Fear Factor, although the bars have no visible cricket parts and lack the woodsy flavor of chirping insects. The taste and consistency are closer to a chocolate or tropical power bar.
前幾天,就在《財(cái)富》(Fortune) 雜志社,當(dāng)幾位記者繪聲繪色地描述他們顫顫巍巍地品嘗Chapul椰子、姜汁、酸橙或花生醬和巧克力棒樣品的經(jīng)歷時(shí),有好幾位編輯都露出了驚恐萬(wàn)分的表情。其中很大一部分憂慮恐怕跟有可能咬到一只蟋蟀有關(guān)——就像他們?cè)陔娨暪?jié)目《誰(shuí)敢來(lái)挑戰(zhàn)》(Fear Factor)中看到的那個(gè)著名場(chǎng)景——盡管這些能量棒看不到明顯的蟋蟀痕跡,也缺乏這種吱吱叫的昆蟲身上特有的那股木香味。這些食物的口味和一致性更接近于巧克力或熱帶棒狀食品。
A few blocks away, the bars were on sale at midtown Manhattan’s Westerly Natural Market natural foods store. Positioned alongside a protein bar featuring Chia seeds and another one claiming to save lives with each sale, staffers said the Chapul cricket bars were selling mostly to “hard-core” customers trying to tap into the latest health food trends. Sales have been slow due to limited marketing and the foreign concept of edible insects, they said.
幾個(gè)街區(qū)之外,在曼哈頓中城的西風(fēng)自然市場(chǎng) (Westerly Natural Market),有不少天然食品商店正在銷售這些棒狀食品。其中有一款蛋白質(zhì)棒包含野鼠尾草籽,和另一種據(jù)稱每銷售一筆就能拯救許多生命的草籽。站在一旁的銷售人員表示,Chapul蟋蟀棒主要賣給了那些嘗試著迎合最新保健食品趨勢(shì)的“死忠”顧客。由于市場(chǎng)營(yíng)銷活動(dòng)有限,再加上公眾對(duì)食用昆蟲的概念還非常陌生,這些產(chǎn)品的銷售一直非常遲緩,他們說(shuō)。
For his part, Chapul’s Crowley has grown accustomed to the naysayers and acknowledges he still has work to do to help consumers overcome their fears of eating products like his with insects. But he believes his company has plenty of room to grow, predicting that it could see $1 million in revenue in 2015 and more than $10 million in five years.
不過(guò),對(duì)于各種反調(diào),克勞利早已習(xí)以為常,并且承認(rèn)在幫助消費(fèi)者克服對(duì)昆蟲食品的恐懼方面,他依然需要做大量工作。但克勞利相信他的公司有足夠大的成長(zhǎng)空間,他預(yù)計(jì)公司營(yíng)收將在2015年達(dá)到100萬(wàn)美元,并且將在五年內(nèi)突破1,000 萬(wàn)美元大關(guān)。
“I have no doubt that the industry will continue to grow,” Crowley says, noting that he expects Chapul to be in 10,000 stores in five years. “We need to diversify our food system,” he says. “We are not trying to eliminate food sources. We are just trying to add insects to the menu of the American diet.”
克勞利說(shuō),“這個(gè)行業(yè)將繼續(xù)增長(zhǎng),我對(duì)此堅(jiān)信不疑?!彼A(yù)計(jì)Chapul將在五年內(nèi)進(jìn)入1萬(wàn)家商店?!拔覀冃枰S富我們的食品系統(tǒng),”他說(shuō)。“我們不是在嘗試著消除食物來(lái)源。我們僅僅是想把昆蟲添加到人們的飲食菜單之中。”

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supplement ['sʌplimənt,'sʌpliment]

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