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Australia's only island state is often overlooked in favor of splashy sights like Sydney or the outback. Tasmania is countrified and slow-paced; accepted wisdom likens it to Britain in the 1950s. Certainly, it has a throwbackish charm, with low buildings and wide-open spaces. One facet of life here, though, is a distinct departure from ration-strapped postwar England: the food. Imagine slabs of perfectly marbled steak from traditional cattle breeds, stone fruits picked from local orchards, sweet wild scallops plucked out of clean, ice-cold waters.
在澳大利亞，悉尼等內陸地區的曼妙景致常常讓人忘卻了那里還有塔斯馬尼亞這個地方。塔斯馬尼亞是澳大利亞唯一的島嶼州，淳樸的鄉村氣息和悠閑慵懶的慢節奏生活常常讓人不禁聯想起20世紀50年代的英國。當然，低矮的建筑物、開闊的視野也增添了它的復古韻味。不過，這里還有另一面的生活完全不同于戰后缺衣少糧的英格蘭：那就是美食。傳統養殖帶來的完美雪花牛排，采自當地果園的核果，清澈冰冷的水底撈出的甘甜野生扇貝，想想就讓人垂涎。
Tony Scherer, who raises heirloom vegetables in Tasmania, sees stronger parallels between the island today and California in the 1970s. He worked on the West Coast when Alice Waters was building the farm-to-table movement. 'I feel that same energy here that was about back then,' he explained. 'It's not a big corporate culture, mainly a cottage industry.'
在塔斯馬尼亞打理家傳蔬菜園的托尼·謝勒(Tony Scherer)認為今天的塔斯馬尼亞更像是20世紀70年代的美國加州。當艾麗絲·沃特斯(Alice Waters)發起“從農場到餐桌”運動時，謝勒正好在美國西海岸工作。“如今在這里我感覺到和當年一樣的活力，”他解釋道，“這并不是一種大企業文化，它關乎的是小企業小作坊。”
The focus is generally on quality rather than quantity. For instance, the island's 200 vineyards produced less than 1% of Australia's total wine output by volume in 2013; Tasmanian vintages, however, comprised at least a quarter of the country's 'A' grade wines, according to the trade group Wine Tasmania. In the seafood industry, you have people like Mark Eather, a Hobart-based fisherman who adheres to the Japanese practice of ike jime. The point is to catch and kill fish as quickly and painlessly as possible, thereby preventing stress hormones from tainting the flesh.
在塔斯馬尼亞，人們關注的焦點通常是質量而非數量。舉例而言，雖然2013年全島200個葡萄園的葡萄酒產量不到澳大利亞總產量的1%，但是據行業組織Wine Tasmania的數據，這里“A級”葡萄酒的數量占到了澳洲總數的至少四分之一。在海鮮行業，有像馬克·伊瑟(Mark Eather)這樣的漁夫，來自霍巴特市的伊瑟嚴格遵守一種名為“ikejime”的日本捕魚方式，力求捕魚和殺魚的過程越快越好、魚受的痛苦越少越好，以減少魚在此過程中分泌的應激激素污染魚肉。“我有強迫癥，” 伊瑟說，“我不想給買家有缺陷的魚。”
But, until the last several years, it was challenging to lure even the most die-hard foodies to this garden of eating -- for good reason. 'Tasmania was widely known for having the best produce in the nation, but the worst chefs,' explained local food writer Matthew Evans. That changed with the establishment of new farm-to-table restaurants and cooking schools around the state.
不過，直到幾年前，這個美食天堂卻連最癡迷于吃的美食家也吸引不來。理由倒也很充分。“大家都知道塔斯馬尼亞的食材是全澳最好的，但廚師卻是最差的，”當地美食作家馬修·伊萬斯(Matthew Evans)解釋說。隨著新型農場直送餐廳和烹飪學校的涌現，情況發生了改變。
'Tasmania may seem like a paradise now, but it has huge potential to be even more than it is today,' said former Sydney resident Rodney Dunn, who moved to the island five years ago to start the Agrarian Kitchen, a cooking school situated on a 5-acre farm.
“塔斯馬尼亞現在可能真的像個天堂了，不過它仍有巨大的潛力可以挖掘，”羅德尼·鄧恩(Rodney Dunn)說，他之前住在悉尼，五年前搬到島上，在一個面積五英畝的農場里開了所名為Agrarian Kitchen的烹飪學校。
The culinary destinations highlighted here are well worth a pilgrimage from the mainland. They're scattered around Tasmania, from Hobart, the capital city on the southern tip, to Launceston in the north. It's easy to rent a car, and the drives through rolling, craggy countryside are so scenic you might not want them to end -- until you get hungry.
Andrew McIntosh/Tourism Tasmania農場同時也是烹飪學校Agrarian Kitchen下面介紹的精彩美食目的地非常值得你從澳洲大陸來島一游。它們分布在從島南端的首府霍巴特到北邊的朗塞斯頓的各個地方。在島上租車非常方便，你可以駕車穿過綿延起伏而崎嶇的鄉村，路邊的景色美得讓你不愿停下，直到你的肚子咕咕作響。
An Edible Education
美食課堂
Unassuming and bespectacled, Mr. Dunn was a magazine editor before he and his wife, Severine, decamped to Tasmania and set up Agrarian Kitchen in a former schoolhouse an hour's drive from Hobart. Their primary offering is a daylong class that starts with foraging and picking produce -- there are peach, apple and pear trees on the property, as well as pens for chickens and pigs. The afternoon is spent cooking modern Australian food in the professional-grade kitchen. The syllabus might include working with freshly foraged truffles, skimming cream from the milk of a cow that lives nearby or learning the nuances of the on-site wood-burning oven. About $360 a person for a one-day course, 650 Lachlan Rd., Lachlan, theagrariankitchen.com
謙遜有禮的鄧恩戴著副眼鏡，來這里之前是一名雜志編輯。他和妻子塞芙琳(Severine)在離霍巴特一個小時車程的一處舊校舍里創立了Agrarian Kitchen烹飪學校。他們開設的主要是一個一日課程：早上從尋找、挑選農產品開始，這里有桃樹、蘋果樹和梨樹，還養了雞和豬；下午在一個專業級廚房里學習現代澳洲菜肴的烹制。課程可能還包括加工新采的松露，從附近奶牛擠出的奶中撇掉奶皮，學習現場燃木爐子的細微差別。一日課程每人學費約360美元；地址：650 Lachlan Rd., Lachlan；網址：theagrariankitchen.com。
Carnivore's Delights
食肉者們的大愛
'We have the most natural produce in the country,' said Canadian expat and restaurateur Kim Seagram. 'That's the nice thing about Tasmania being 15 years behind the rest of the world.'
“我們有全澳最天然的農產品，”從加拿大移居而來的餐館老板金姆·西格萊姆(Kim Seagram)說，“塔斯馬尼亞比世界其他地方落后15年真是件好事。”
Her two restaurants are showcases for local ingredients. Stillwater, which she set up after falling in love with Tasmania on a brief vacation, is housed in a 1830s mill in the historic town of Launceston. Rough-hewed wooden beams decorate the dining room's walls and ceilings; the eatery has a terrace overlooking the river and a casual wine bar where guests can sample Tasmanian vintages. The menu evolves with the seasons and might feature seared scallops or slow-roasted salt-grass lamb from Flinders Island, off Tasmania's northern coast, where blustery weather deposits salt on pastures.
Chris CrerarStillwater餐廳的一道扇貝菜肴她的兩家餐館正是當地食材的展示窗口。她在塔斯馬尼亞的一次短暫度假旅行后愛上了這里，然后在歷史名城朗塞斯頓市一處19世紀30年代的磨坊里開了一家名為Stillwater的餐館。餐廳 壁和天花板用粗獷的木梁裝飾，餐廳露臺可以俯瞰河流，在休閑葡萄酒吧里客人們還能品嘗塔斯馬尼亞葡萄酒。餐廳菜單會根據季節進行調整，客人們有機會品嘗到烤扇貝、來自北岸邊上弗林德斯島(Flinders Island)的 烤鹽草羔羊肉，那里的大風天氣使鹽沉積到了草地上。
Black Cow Bistro focuses on exceptional meat from the region -- the island's damp climate is well-suited to raising traditional, flavorful breeds of cattle such as Angus and Hereford, and no growth promotants can be used in Tasmania. Sample dry-aged, grass-fed steaks in its casual, Art Deco-era setting. Stillwater: 2 Bridge Rd., Launceston, stillwater.net.au; Black Cow Bistro: 70 George St., Launceston, blackcowbistro.com.au
Black Cow Bistro餐廳專注于該地區非同凡響的肉品。島上潮濕的天氣很適合飼養傳統的、肉質鮮美的牲畜，像安格斯(Angus)牛和赫里福德(Hereford)牛，而且在塔斯馬尼亞不允許使用促生長劑。你可以在它裝飾藝術氣息濃郁的休閑餐廳品嘗到取自草料飼養牛的干式熟成牛排。Stillwater地址：2 Bridge Rd., Launceston、網址：stillwater.net.au；Black Cow Bistro地址：70 George St., Launceston、網址：blackcowbistro.com.au。
Wee Winery
Sylvain MarchandD'Meure葡萄園小小釀酒坊
D'Meure vineyard, just over 20 miles south of Hobart, is typical of the tiny, hands-on operations that characterize Tasmania's winemaking scene. Former lawyer Dirk Meure packs 8,000 vines into his tiny, single-hectare plot -- double the typical planting density in Burgundy, France. 'The vines have to struggle to survive,' he explained. 'But we don't have to irrigate and upset the natural balance.' A warm climate elsewhere in Australia, he claimed, rushes ripening, and acid is often added to wine to balance the sweetness, but that's not the case here. Mr. Meure produces just 300 cases each year of high-quality Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Contact the owner through the vineyard's website to book a private tasting. 16 Fleurtys Lane, Birchs Bay, dmeure.com.au
D'Meure葡萄園位于霍巴特以南20英里開外的地方，具有典型的塔斯馬尼亞風格：規模非常小，手工操作。曾經是律師的德克·繆爾(Dirk Meure)把8,000株葡萄樹塞進了他只有一公頃大的小小園子里，這個密度是法國勃艮第典型種植密度的兩倍。“葡萄樹不得不想辦法努力生存，”他解釋說，“不過我們也不必灌溉，去破壞自然的平衡。”他說，澳大利亞其他地方溫熱的天氣會催熟果實，所以需要在葡萄酒中加入酸來平衡甜味，不過在塔斯馬尼亞就不用。繆爾每年只出品300箱高品質的灰比諾(Pinot Gris)和黑比諾(Pinot Gris)。有興趣的讀者可以通過葡萄園網站聯系園主預約品嘗。地址：16 Fleurtys Lane, Birchs Bay；網址：dmeure.com.au。
Bubble Rep
起泡酒的代表
Widely acknowledged among the wine industry as Tasmania's premier sparkling wine, Jansz is one of the few marques imported to the U.S. from the swath of vineyards in the Tamar Valley, close to Launceston. Co-founded in the 1980s by the Louis Roederer Champagne house, Jansz pioneered a Champagne-like process wryly known as Methode Tasmanoise. Today, winemaker Natalie Fryer masterminds a full program, including a commercial rose and Brut plus small-batch single vintages. Taste a clutch of her creations in the wine room (and pause to look at the cellar door made from old Tasmanian celery-top pine, a wood now so scarce it can't be legally harvested). 12168 Pipers Brook Rd., Pipers Brook, jansz.com.au
簡茨(Jansz)在葡萄酒行業被公認是塔斯馬尼亞最好的起泡葡萄酒，它也是少數幾個從朗塞斯頓附近的塔馬谷(Tamar Valley)葡萄園區出口到美國的品牌之一。簡茨在20世紀80年代由Louis Roederer Champagne香檳酒廠聯合開發，它開辟了一種被戲稱為“Methode Tasmanoise”（塔斯馬尼亞法）工藝的香檳酒式釀造方法。如今，釀酒師娜塔莉·弗萊爾(Natalie Fryer)制定了一整套的釀造方案，包括商業化的玫瑰口味簡茨、香檳酒、還有少量單一年份酒。在葡萄酒屋可以品嘗她的一系列創造，（還可以參觀一下用老塔斯馬尼亞芹葉松制作的酒窖大門，這種木頭非常的稀少，合法地采伐也不可以。）地址：12168 Pipers Brook Rd., Pipers Brook；網址：jansz.com.au。
Sushi Deluxe
壽司也奢華
Born and brought up in Japan, where he studied sushi-making, Masaaki Koyama moved to Tasmania's Huon Valley, southwest of Hobart, after marrying a local. He brought along his expertise in high-end hand rolls. Mr. Koyama uses local fish and locally grown wasabi in his sushi and sashimi. His closet-sized cafe, Masaaki's Sushi, in the village of Geeveston, is only open on Friday and Saturday. If you can't sample his creations then, pick up the same treats at the chef's stall in Farm Gate Market on Sunday morning. 20b Church St., Geeveston, 61-408-712-340
Masaaki Koyama生在日本長在日本，并在那里學習了壽司制作技藝。他和霍巴特西南部休恩峽谷(Huon Valley)的一名女子結婚后就移居到了這里，并把做高端壽司的手藝也帶了過來。Koyama用當地的魚和芥末醬來做壽司和生魚片。他的壽司店Masaaki's Sushi面積很小，位于吉夫斯頓村(Geeveston)，只在周五和周六營業。如果你這兩個時間都沒法去他的店里，也可以周日上午來Farm Gate Market市場他的攤位前，也能品嘗到他的手藝。地址：20b Church St., Geeveston；電話：61-408-712-340。
The Chef's Table
大廚的餐桌
Melbourne veteran Steve Cumper arrived in the hamlet of Cygnet six years ago and snapped up a shabby cafe in a historic 1912 building. He transformed it into the Red Velvet Lounge, a casual bistro with deep-red walls and rustic wooden tables. He's accumulated plaudits and awards (including Country Style magazine's Australian Country Chef of the Year). It's well worth the hourlong drive from Hobart to experience his cooking for yourself -- Mr. Cumper is known for his sourdough breads and other homestyle baked goods, as well as relishes and jams, many of whose ingredients are sourced from nearby apple and cherry orchards. 24 Mary St., Cygnet, theredvelvetlounge.com.au
在墨爾本居住了多年的史蒂夫·昆佩爾(Steve Cumper)六年前來到小天鵝村(Cygnet)買下了一家簡陋餐廳，這家餐廳開在一座建于1912年的老房子中。他把餐廳改造成了名為Red Velvet Lounge的休閑小酒館。酒館 面涂成深紅色，里面放置著淳 的木桌。他的小酒館已經為他贏得了不少贊譽和獎項（包括Country Style雜志頒發的“澳大利亞年度鄉村主廚獎”(Australian Country Chef of the Year)）。它值得你驅車一個小時從霍巴特來到這里親自品嘗他的手藝，最出名的是他的酸酵母面包和其他家庭烘焙品，還有各種開胃小菜和果醬，其中許多原料均取自附近的蘋果園和櫻桃園。地址：24 Mary St., Cygnet；網址：theredvelvetlounge.com.au。
Sweet Treatment
甜蜜的款待
After apprenticing in London with star chef Angela Hartnett, Alistair Wise returned home to Tasmania and opened his own bakery. Sweet Envy lies on a quiet residential street in the suburb of North Hobart. With his shaven head and abundance of tattoos, Mr. Wise resembles an army reservist more than a chef -- until he starts chatting about food, specifically desserts. Fruit grown in Tasmania's cool climate is less sugary and has a rich mouthfeel, he explained, so it holds up beautifully in the ice creams, tarts, pies and cakes he sells in the minimalist, all-white space. On warm days, stop and sit on stools arranged in the alley next door to idle over a coffee and a cupcake. 341 Elizabeth St., North Hobart, sweetenvy.com
在倫敦做完明星主廚安吉拉·哈特尼特(Angela Hartnett)的學徒后，阿利斯泰·懷斯(Alistair Wise)回到塔斯馬尼亞開了自己的烘焙坊。Sweet Envy坐落在北霍巴特郊區一處安靜的住宅區街道上。懷斯剃個光頭，身上到處是紋身，要不是開口談美食、特別是甜品，他看上去更像一個陸軍預備役軍人而不是廚師。生長在塔斯馬尼亞涼爽天氣里的水果甜份較少，口感豐富，他解釋說，所以很適合做他店里賣的冰激凌、果餡餅、派和蛋糕。他的店四白落地，透露出極簡裝飾風格。在暖和的天氣里，不妨來到店中，在店旁小路上放置的凳子上坐坐，來杯咖啡和一個紙托蛋糕打發時光。地址：341 Elizabeth St., North Hobart；網址：sweetenvy.com。
