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尋找自己的旅程 留宿鬧中取靜的北京古寺

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YOU NEVER KNOW what you'll find when you go bicycling in Beijing. Eight years ago, the Belgian entrepreneur Juan van Wassenhove set off from his home in the Chinese capital to pedal around the vanishing hutongs, the labyrinthine alleyways that were once the heart of the ancient city, when he glimpsed what appeared to be the tip of a stupa rising above slate-gray roofs. After shouldering open an iron gate, he was amazed to discover a derelict wooden temple with a beautiful double-level main hall crafted by artisans in the Qing Dynasty--a rare architectural treasure. 'That day I found my mission,' he recalls.

在中國(guó)首都騎車,你永遠(yuǎn)不知道會(huì)遇到什么。八年前,比利時(shí)創(chuàng)業(yè)家溫守諾(Juan van Wassenhove)從北京的家中出發(fā),踩著自行車逛那些像迷宮一樣、曾經(jīng)是這座古都的心臟、而今正在日漸消失的胡同。突然之間,他瞥見一個(gè)疑似佛塔尖頂?shù)臇|西從青灰色的屋頂上冒出來。在用肩膀頂開一道鐵門之后,他驚奇地發(fā)現(xiàn)了一座廢棄的木頭建成的寺廟。廟里有一個(gè)清代工匠建成的雙層大殿,美輪美奐,是一件稀有的建筑珍寶。溫守諾回憶說:“就在那一天,我找到了自己的使命。”
The antique structure--known to the faithful as Zhizhusi, the Temple of Wisdom--was one of three Tibetan Buddhist temples built in the mid-18th century near the Imperial Palace. Battered and charred by fire, the edifice was hardly promising for development. But years of restoration has transformed it into an art hotel with eight luxury rooms, a gallery, a restaurant, a courtyard adorned with sculptures and--in a surprisingly effective stroke--the only James Turrell Skyspace in China. Stripped of its bleak Communist facade, the near-ruined temple today has a new life, subtly blending Eastern spirituality with contemporary Western style.
這座古建筑被信眾稱為“智珠寺”,是18世紀(jì)中葉在皇宮附近修建的三座藏傳佛教寺廟之一。由于被火燒過,以前這座寺廟沒有了什么新生的希望。但經(jīng)過多年的修復(fù)之后,它已經(jīng)化身為一家藝術(shù)酒店,包含八個(gè)豪華房間,一家畫廊,一家餐廳,一個(gè)裝飾著雕塑作品的庭院,另外還有一個(gè)神來之筆,那便是詹姆斯・特瑞爾(James Turrell)在中國(guó)的唯一一件“Skyspace”作品。在去掉了共產(chǎn)主義時(shí)代風(fēng)格的單調(diào)正面之后,這座幾近毀滅的寺廟如今獲得了新生,將東方的靈性同西方的當(dāng)代風(fēng)格微妙地結(jié)合在了一起。
The dramatic saga of China is written in its walls. In the mid-1700s, at the height of the wealthy Qing Dynasty, a pious emperor decided to build a Tibetan temple on the site, and Zhizhusi became home to a revered sage known as the Living Buddha. The sixth Living Buddha was still residing there two centuries later when the People's Liberation Army marched into Beijing in 1949, and symbols of the Imperial Age were repurposed for the Communist Revolution. Zhizhusi became a factory, first for mosaics, then bicycles, medical supplies and, in the 1970s, China's first black-and-white televisions. Neglected and abused, the building slowly decayed. 'Left to its own devices, the temple would not have lasted even three or four more years,' van Wassenhove says of his first visit in 2005.
中國(guó)風(fēng)云多變的歷史寫在了寺廟的 上。18世紀(jì)中葉,正值清王朝的鼎盛時(shí)期,一位虔誠(chéng)的皇帝決定在這個(gè)地方建一座藏式寺廟,于是便有了智珠寺,它是一位受人尊敬的 賢“活佛”的駐錫之地。兩個(gè)世紀(jì)之后的1949年,當(dāng)中國(guó)人民解放軍進(jìn)入北京的時(shí)候,六世活佛仍然在寺里居住。帝國(guó)時(shí)代的各種象征符號(hào)都紛紛為改為共產(chǎn)主義革命服務(wù)。智珠寺變成了一座工廠,先是生產(chǎn)金漆鑲嵌產(chǎn)品,然后是自行車、醫(yī)療器械,70年代又生產(chǎn)了中國(guó)的第一批黑白電視機(jī)。因?yàn)闊o人看顧加上長(zhǎng)期的無序使用,寺廟的建筑慢慢地衰敗了下去。溫守諾說,2005年他第一次到這里的時(shí)候,“若是任其自生自滅,這座寺廟三四年都撐不下去了。”
He contacted two business partners-- Lin Fan and Li Chow, both veterans of the local film industry--and in late 2007 the trio funded the removal of debris so investors could see the temple's potential. When a shabby modern ceiling within the main hall was removed, it revealed wooden panels covered with Sanskrit paintings. By 2008, when the plan for a boutique hotel was revealed, investors, mostly wealthy Chinese, were enthralled. 'It was the right time to do this project,' says van Wassenhove. 'After years of indifference, Chinese people of means are now interested in restoring architecture from the Imperial Age. Ten years ago, we wouldn't have had the skilled workers available in China.'
他聯(lián)系了兩位商業(yè)伙伴――中國(guó)電影行業(yè)資深人士林凡和周理賢。2007年年底,三人出資清理了廢墟,讓投資者能夠看到這座古寺的潛力。當(dāng)大殿內(nèi)破敗的現(xiàn)代的天花板被揭掉的時(shí)候,一些繪有梵文繪畫的木板露了出來。到2008年,修建精品酒店的方案公布,以中國(guó)富人為主的投資人產(chǎn)生了深厚的興趣。溫守諾說:“做這個(gè)項(xiàng)目的時(shí)機(jī)選對(duì)了。經(jīng)過多年的冷漠忽視之后,中國(guó)富人現(xiàn)在對(duì)修復(fù)帝國(guó)時(shí)代建筑很有興趣。10年前我們?cè)谥袊?guó)連相關(guān)的熟練工人都請(qǐng)不到。”
The public got its first glimpse in 2011, when a wing opened containing the Temple Restaurant Beijing, a palace of French gastronomy run by Ignace Lecleir, the Belgian-born former general manager of Daniel in Manhattan who moved to Beijing to open Maison Boulud in 2007. When he first saw the site, Lecleir was charmed by the space, but felt its condition was too poor for a serious business--until he saw the renovation. Today his restaurant attracts a mix of affluent expats, curious travelers and wealthy Chinese residents. 'I was worried that local Chinese people would avoid this neighborhood,' Lecleir says. 'Now they are about two thirds of our business.'
2011年,包含豪華法餐廳“Temple Restaurant Beijing”的一側(cè)對(duì)外開放,公眾首次得以窺見寺廟的真容。這家餐廳的經(jīng)營(yíng)者是出生于比利時(shí)、曾任曼哈頓Daniel餐廳總經(jīng)理、在2007年搬到北京開辦了“布魯宮”(Maison Boulud)的伊尼亞斯・勒克萊爾(Ignace Lecleir)。第一次見到這個(gè)地方時(shí),勒克萊爾被它的空間吸引,但感覺條件太差,不適合正兒八經(jīng)的經(jīng)營(yíng)――等看到修復(fù)之后的樣子感覺就不一樣了。今天光顧他餐廳的既有富足的外籍人士、好奇的游客,也有有錢的中國(guó)人。勒克萊爾說,“我原本擔(dān)心本地的中國(guó)人不會(huì)光顧這個(gè)區(qū)域,現(xiàn)在他們大約占到我們業(yè)務(wù)量的三分之二”。
The hotel is also a showcase for contemporary art, both Chinese and international, sourced by van Wassenhove through friends. 'I particularly wanted to find artists who work with light,' he says. 'It suits a temple.' The German light designers Ingo Maurer and Atelier Areti provided state-of-the-art illumination. But the coup was securing the James Turrell work Gathered Sky, which lured the notoriously reclusive artist himself to Beijing to fine-tune the design. 'James was very touched by the temple space,' says van Wassenhove. 'This is not a museum; it's a living place in an intensely urban setting. Being in the heart of a city with millions of people, it's the most accessible Turrell work in the world.'
酒店也是展示當(dāng)代中外藝術(shù)作品的櫥窗。作品是溫守諾通過友人采購(gòu)的。他說:“我當(dāng)時(shí)特別需要找到處理光線的藝術(shù)家,因?yàn)楣饩€藝術(shù)跟寺廟很搭。”德國(guó)燈光設(shè)計(jì)師英戈・毛雷爾(Ingo Maurer)和阿特利爾・阿雷蒂(Atelier Areti)設(shè)計(jì)了尖端的照明系統(tǒng)。但最妙的是詹姆斯・特瑞爾的作品“Gathered Sky”,這位以絕世獨(dú)立而聞名的藝術(shù)家親自到北京來對(duì)這個(gè)設(shè)計(jì)做了一番微調(diào)。溫守諾說:“詹姆斯對(duì)智珠寺的空間感觸很深。這個(gè)地方不是美術(shù)館,而是鬧市中的一個(gè)居所。它和數(shù)百萬人一起處在城市的中心地帶,是特瑞爾在世界上最平易近人的作品。”
The hotel is an oasis of relative calm within the traffic-clogged Chinese capital; here, one can still hear birds in the morning and spot the occasional butterfly. Several of the guest rooms are in the old TV factory, but more atmospheric is to sleep within the centuries-old chambers that were combined to make guest rooms; their floors heated in winter and lattice windows protected by double-glazed glass. And now, every Sunday at dusk, guests and the paying public can partake of the serene Turrell Skyspace. As classical music softly plays and LED lights complement the shifting colors of the waning day, I lie on the floor and watch swooping bats and then--miraculously for Beijing--two stars appear in the sky. After, I return to the hotel courtyard, past statues of tiny monks carrying small light bulbs like sabers, into the restaurant bar beneath Ming Dynasty eaves. 'I think we've extended the life of this temple for 300 years,' van Wassenhove tells me. 'I feel we've done our duty. Hopefully others will now follow suit.'
在交通擁堵的中國(guó)首都,這個(gè)酒店是一片相對(duì)寧?kù)o的綠洲。在這里,早上仍可聽見鳥鳴,偶爾還會(huì)看到蝴蝶。原來的電視機(jī)廠里有好幾間客房,但睡在利用有著幾百年歷史的僧人臥房組合而成的那些客房里才更有感覺。這些房間冬天有地暖,格子窗被雙層玻璃保護(hù)著。現(xiàn)在,每個(gè)周日當(dāng)夜幕降臨的時(shí)候,客人和付費(fèi)公眾可以體驗(yàn)特瑞爾安詳寧?kù)o的“Skyspace”作品。古典樂曲舒緩地奏起,LED燈光與不斷變幻的暮色交相輝映。我躺在地板上,看著蝙蝠猛沖出來,然后又看到天上出現(xiàn)了兩顆星星――在北京來說可謂奇跡。然后我回到酒店庭院,路過一個(gè)個(gè)像舉著刀劍一樣舉著小燈管的微型僧人雕塑,進(jìn)入位于明代屋檐之下的餐吧。溫守諾對(duì)我說:“我想我們把這座寺廟的壽命延長(zhǎng)了300年。我覺得我們已經(jīng)完成了使命。希望其他人現(xiàn)在會(huì)跟著做。”

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adv. 敏銳地,巧妙地,精細(xì)地

 
restoration [.restə'reiʃən]

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n. 恢復(fù),歸還,復(fù)位

 
labyrinthine [,læbə'rinθain, -θin]

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contemporary [kən'tempərəri]

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