The Mochena region was a closed place, still inhabited by descendants of Bavarians who ate dumplings, lived in chalets and spoke a dialect of German.
莫切納地區交通閉塞,那兒仍然生活著巴伐利亞人的后代,他們吃德國餃子,住木屋,說著德語方言。
They distrusted all strangers, including the regular pedlars who sold fabric out of their vans.
他們對所有的陌生人都心懷戒備,包括那些經常開貨車賣布料的小販。
And they had never seen a black face except on Shrove Tuesday, when carnival was led by the betscho and betscha,
除了懺悔日,他們從來沒有見過一張黑人面孔,當時的懺悔日是由貝塔和貝莎主持的,
one in a skirt, one with a tall goatskin hat and a false hump made of straw, both in blackface, who clowned to bring prosperity.
她們一個穿著裙子,一個戴著高高的山羊皮帽子,用稻草做出假的駝背,兩人都涂成了黑臉,他們用滑稽的動作,以期為當地帶來繁榮。
Now here among them was a real black woman, an Ethiopian refugee, living in the mountains alone with her goats.
如今,一個真正的黑人婦女出現了,她是個埃塞俄比亞難民,和羊群獨自住在山里。
Well, she thought as she worked away, herding and milking and scrubbing, she could bring in prosperity too.
她一直覺得,一邊放牧、擠奶、清洗,一邊干活,她也能為當地繁榮貢獻力量。
Her parents had gone to California; she had come here.
她的父母去了加利福尼亞;她來到了這里。
She had fled from Ethiopia in 2010 with nothing, determined to leave nostalgia behind and reinvent herself.
2010年,她一無所有地逃離了埃塞俄比亞,決心拋開故國情懷,重塑自我。
Her work back there, menaced by trigger-happy police and a warrant for her arrest,
在那里,她的工作受到了暴力的警察和逮捕令的威脅,
had been to defend nomadic herders whose grazing lands were being grabbed and leased to corporations by the government.
她的工作是為那些游牧牧民辯護,他們的牧場被政府搶奪并租給公司。
Neo-colonialism, in a word. But in Italy too land was being squandered, good green land, as people left.
總之,這簡直就是新殖民主義。但是在意大利,隨著人們離開,土地被擱置。
So she did what her herding grandparents would have done:
所以她重拾了祖父母放牧為生的舊行當:
put her goats on communal pastures that had been abandoned, and let their munching and manuring gradually restore them.
把她的山羊驅趕到被遺棄的公共牧場上,通過羊群啃食和排便逐漸恢復了土地的生機。
The Mochena breed were not abundant milkers, but she soon had milk and yogurt to sell.
莫切納山羊的產奶量并不高,但她很快就有牛奶和酸奶可以賣了。
Then came cheese, eventually 15 different kinds adapted to local tastes—of which her special treasures were the primo sale,
然后是奶酪,最終她自制了15種不同的奶酪來迎合當地人的口味——其中她的熱賣品就是primo sale,
the first fresh salted ones, which tasted completely different in a week.
首批原創新鮮咸奶酪,這種奶酪的新鮮口感僅能維持一周。
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