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From the Culture Section
來源于《文化》版塊
The Real Cost of Your Blue Jeans
你的藍色牛仔褲的真正成本
By Dana Thomas
作者：達娜·托馬斯
The biggest fashion trend in recent years is "fast fashion"—the mass production of trendy, inexpensive clothing with lightning-quick turnaround. This is a hugely wasteful global, environmental and human rights disaster, according to bestselling journalist Dana Thomas in her new book Fashionopolis.
近年來最大的時尚潮流是“快時尚”，即大量生產時尚、廉價、轉瞬即逝的服裝。暢銷書記者達納·托馬斯在她的新書《時尚都市》中寫道，這是一場巨大的全球性、環境和人權災難。
Making the industry's 80 billion garments per year requires huge amounts of water and toxic chemicals. It employs every sixth person on Earth—most in dangerous conditions for very little money. Fast fashion also produces mountains of clothes that go unsold or are discarded and end up in garbage dumps and landfills.
制衣業每年生產800億件服裝需要大量的水和有毒化學物質。它雇傭了地球上的六分之一的員工——其中大多數處于危險的環境中，薪水卻很少。快時尚還會產生大量未售出或被丟棄的衣服，這些衣服最終會被扔進垃圾場和垃圾填埋場。
There is no single solution for these problems of ecological damage, exploitation and waste, but there is hope for the future. Consumers, retailers and innovators are pursuing a variety of options for sustainability, such as buying secondhand clothes; renting outfits; recycling clothes into new, reusable fibers; 3D printing clothes on demand; biofabrication; reshoring; and using organic and natural fibers. And just buying less.
這些生態破壞、開發和浪費的問題沒有單一的解決辦法，但未來是有希望的。消費者、零售商和革新者正在尋求各種可持續性的選擇，比如購買二手衣服;租賃公司;把衣服變成新的、可重復使用的纖維; 按需3D打印衣服;生物制造;重新支撐;使用有機和天然纖維。減少購買。
Perhaps the worst offenders in terms of environmental and human damage are blue jeans. In this excerpt from Fashionopolis, Thomas explores some of what ails the world's most popular garment of all—and one process that could help cure some of the ills plaguing their production.
也許對環境和人類危害最大的是牛仔褲。在這段節選自Fashionopolis的文章中，托馬斯探討了世界上最流行的服裝的一些問題，以及一種可以幫助解決困擾其生產的一些問題的工藝。
You are probably wearing jeans as you read this. If you're not, chances are you wore them yesterday. Or you will tomorrow. At any given moment, anthropologists believe, half the world's population is sporting jeans. Five billion pairs are produced annually. The average American owns seven—one for each day of the week—and buys four new pairs every year. "I wish I had invented blue jeans," the French couturier Yves Saint Laurent confessed. "They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity—all I hope for my clothes."
讀這篇文章的時候，你可能正穿著牛仔褲。如果你沒有，很可能你昨天就穿了。否則你明天就會穿。人類學家認為，在任何時候，世界上一半的人口都在穿牛仔褲。每年生產50億條。美國人平均每天擁有7 – 1條，每年購買4雙。“我希望我發明了藍色牛仔褲，”法國時裝設計師伊夫·圣洛朗承認了這一點。“她們有表情、端莊、性感、簡單——所有這些都是我對衣服的期望。”
譯文由可可原創，僅供學習交流使用，未經許可請勿轉載。
