《36小時玩轉清邁》
Traditionally, tourists have trekked to the star of Thailand’s north in search of M.E.A.T.: markets, elephants, artisans and temples. And Chiang Mai, a laid-back old riverside city whose population (fewer than 200,000) is a fraction of Bangkok’s (more than eight million), obliges those fantasies. But these days the 700-year-old city is brimming with far more modern attractions, too, namely the works of artists and designers. Thanks to a blossoming creative scene, a Chiang Mai weekend now offers the chance to soak up contemporary art in world-class exhibition spaces, purchase stylish 21st-century design in new shops and craft villages, and sleep in gallery-like new hotels, from the frivolous to the fancy. The culinary and night life scenes are also thriving, with ambitious upstart restaurants and a buzzing bar district joining the city’s traditional eating rooms and street-food zones.
傳統上,千里迢迢前往泰國北部之星的游客們,尋找的是M.E.A.T.:市場(markets)、大象(elephants)、匠人(artisans)和寺廟(temples)。清邁作為一座休閑的河畔古城,完全能滿足所有這些幻想;它的人口不到20萬,是曼谷800萬人口的一個零頭。但這座擁有700年歷史的城市,現在也充滿了很多的現代景點,即那些來自藝術家和設計師的作品。由于創作領域的繁榮,現在在清邁過周末,就有機會在世界級的展覽空間里領略當代藝術,在新的店鋪和工藝村購買21世紀的時尚設計,在畫廊般的新酒店里過夜,價格有簡有奢。美食和夜生活也是相當熱鬧,雄心勃勃的新餐廳和一個喧鬧的酒吧區,與該城傳統的餐廳和路邊美食區成鼎立之勢。
Friday周五
1) 5 p.m. HANDMADE HAVEN1)
下午5點 手工藝品的聚集地
Handmade creations abound along Charoenrat Road. Siam meets Soho at Woo, a cafe and concept store that blooms with Thai creativity — literally — starting with plants and exquisite floral arrangements. The upstairs art gallery exhibits painting and sculpture, while the boutique’s wide-ranging collection includes rice extract lip balm, minimalist ceramics, kaleidoscopic hippie-chic dresses and a skull covered with tiny white seashells. Down the street, The Meeting Room Art Cafe is piled with stacks of prints and canvases by local artists — all for sale.
Charoenrat路是買手工藝品的好地方。暹羅和蘇荷在Woo相遇。這是一家咖啡館和概念店,泰式創意在這里綻放——是真的有花朵綻放——從植物和精致的插花開始。樓上的藝廊展出繪畫和雕塑,而精品店里的商品則包羅萬象,有大米提取物潤唇膏、極簡主義風格的陶瓷、千變萬化的嬉皮風連衣裙,以及覆蓋著白色小貝殼的骷髏。沿街而行,你會看到The Meeting Room Art Cafe咖啡館,里面堆滿了當地藝術家的版畫和油畫作品(全都可以出售)。
周六
2) 10 a.m. WISDOM OF THE WAT4)
上午10點:寺院的智慧
First the bad news: “All things arise, exist and expire.” On the other hand: “Detachment is a great way to relax.” Such are just a few of the maxims on signs that adorn trees in Wat Umong, a forested sprawl of temples, pavilions, statues, fountains and lakes. Founded in the late 13th century and still home to many Buddhist monks, the complex is best known for its bell-shaped, 14th-century stone pagoda. Beat the heat by arriving in the morning and taking a meditative stroll amid a soundtrack of birds, roosters, chants and bells.
先是壞消息:“萬物成住壞空。”另一方面:“超然是放松的好辦法。”這些是寫在悟孟寺(Wat Umong)樹木標志上的一些格言,龐大的悟孟寺位于森林之中,有寺廟、亭子、雕像、噴泉和湖泊。該建筑群建于13世紀末,如今仍然是許多佛教僧侶的家園,這里最出名的是14世紀的鐘形石塔。趁著早上涼快趕去那里,在鳥兒、公雞、誦詠和鈴鐺的伴奏下,沉下心來漫步。