Track One
Suits for the politicians and the business people
西裝是專為政商人士設計的
You had companies like ‘Shepard's and Anderson' who designed for Prince Charles
也有像“Shepard's and Anderson”這樣專為查爾斯王子設計著裝的公司
That's what it was – it was all about being a gentleman and how you presented yourself
這就是西裝的全部意義——做一名紳士以及用怎樣的形象示人。
It was a real lifestyle – form of communicating who you are
這是一種真正的生活方式——告訴人們你是誰
Fashion changed in Britain
時裝在英國改變了許多
It was really in the ‘60's with brands like Ben Sherman, the whole Portobello Road and Carnaby Street
是上世紀60年代,隨著像Ben Sherman這樣的品牌興起,整個Portobello路和Carnaby街也隨之興盛繁榮起來
That movement that took off – and the whole Mod movement really shaped British fashion
整個運動方興未艾——可以說整個現代時尚運動真正塑造了英國的時尚
The Beatles in their skinny suits with their hair
那個時代,披頭士們穿著他們的精致修身的小西服,留著披頭士的發型
The whole colourful shirt thing – my old teacher – he had a shop on King's Road – his name was Stephen King - he became quite famous in dressing people in bright psychedelic shirts
還有那些花色款的襯衣——我曾經的老師——他在國王大街有個店面——他叫 Sephen King——他后來很有名,因為他很會以鮮亮迷人的襯衫來打扮他的客人。
It was a whole lifestyle – people really bought into and lived
時裝也是一個完整的生活方式——人們真正選擇購買并與之長期生活在一起的東西,這就是生活方式
How do you train somebody to be a designer?
怎樣培訓設計師?
I remember telling my teacher at school I wanted to apply for London School of Fashion – and started doing all this drawing
我曾記得我告訴我的老師我想申請就讀倫敦時尚學校——然后開始畫各種圖
There was something naturally there with me
某些東西我與生俱來
It worked and I got in
這種天分很有效而且我全然領會,我成功進入了那所學院。
They try and build up your skills, build up your understanding
他們(學校)塑造你的技能,塑造你對時裝的理解能力
There is a lot to fashion designing that I think a lot of people do not understand
我認為關于時裝設計的很多事情,其實很多人都不是真的理解。
It involves society
它包含著社會因素
And when you work for big companies it involves the economy, what's happening – it can even involve politics
當你為大公司工作時這其中也包括經濟因素,所有周圍正在發生的一切——甚至也包括政治因素
I worked across both men's and women's wear
我的工作貫穿男裝及女裝領域
Studied women's wear at London College of Fashion and menswear in Sussex.
我在倫敦時尚學院學的女裝專業,在蘇賽克斯學了男裝專業。
Track Two
I managed to work with a very famous designer Alexander McQueen
我得以有機會和一位非常知名的設計師Alexander McQueen一起工作
He was very successful, very talented designer
他真是一名很成功且很有天賦的設計師
Even although I was doing a menswear degree, when I met him I worked on women's wear
盡管我當時正在修男裝學位,遇到他以后,我開始著手于女裝的工作
Once you know how to design you can design pretty much anything
一旦你懂得怎樣設計,你幾乎就能夠設計任何東西
When I was a student I met him during Graduate Fashion Week and I said I would really love to work for you
當我還是學生的時候,我在”畢業時裝周”上遇到了他,并且告訴他我真的很想和他一起共事。
He took me really seriously and gave me this metal business card
他很認真地考慮了,并給了我這張金屬質感的名片
I sent in my CV and next week they called me in “Please work on a piece with one of our designers' for ‘Days and Confused' magazine.
我呈報了我的CV,第二個星期,他們給我打了電話,邀我與他們 ‘Days and Confused' 雜志的一位設計師一起參與一個共同設計的環節。
And then it just grew from there – a piece went into the V&A Museum
設計逐漸成型,成熟——其中一個作品進入了V&A博物館
Fashion has a lot of tension, a lot of pressure – it is a very competitive industry
時裝業有著緊張的氣氛,也有很多的壓力,令人緊繃——是一個競爭激烈的行業
Working with Alexander McQueen – we had a similar background- he was from the East End there was just something about us, we just clicked
和Alexander McQueen一起工作——我們有很多相似的背景——他來自倫敦東部,我們有相同之處,一拍即合。
Other students were very scared of him – he was very strict
其他的學生很懼怕他——因為他很嚴厲
They invited me to Givenchy in Paris
他們邀請我去巴黎的紀梵希
I worked on one of the main couture collections
我負責一套主要的成衣設計
I also worked all night with McQueen and another guy, who at the time I did not realise who he was
我同時也和McQueen以及另一個同事整晚工作,我當時不知道那個同事是何許人也
The day before the show we went to the venue in a taxi
時裝秀當天,我們乘出租車去了會場
We worked the whole night- we were drinking some champagne at the same time
我們工作了整晚,同時我們也喝了些香檳
It was only in the morning that I realised who I had been talking with
直到早上我才意識到和我一起工作聊天的人是誰
The guy said "My name is Philip"
他說“我名叫Philip”
"You are a hat designer – are you Philip Tracy?"
“你是帽子設計師——就是那個 Philip Tracy?”