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三年走過(guò)10000英里的奇女子

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A hundred years ago, when Robert Falcon Scott set out for Antarctica on his Terra Nova expedition, his two primary goals were scientific discovery and reaching the geographic South Pole. Arguably, though, Scott was really chasing what contemporary observers call a sufferfest. He set himself up for trouble: Scott brought Manchurian and Siberian ponies that quickly fell through the snow and ice; he planned, in part, for his crew to “man-haul,” meaning that the men would pull sleds full of gear, instead of relying on dogs. Even when Scott’s men faltered, they continued collecting specimens, including rocks. The expedition ended terribly; everybody who made the push to the pole died. Miserable, starving and frostbitten, one of Scott’s last four men killed himself by walking into a blizzard without even bothering to put on his boots.

100年前(1912年),英國(guó)極地探險(xiǎn)家羅伯特·法爾肯·斯科特啟程前往南極洲,開始進(jìn)行特拉諾瓦遠(yuǎn)征(Terra Nova,意為“新陸地”) 。斯科特此行的主要目的有兩個(gè):科學(xué)發(fā)現(xiàn);抵達(dá)地理學(xué)上的南極點(diǎn)。然而我們可以說(shuō),斯科特真正追求的,是當(dāng)代觀察家所稱的“苦難之旅”。斯科特總是自找苦吃:他購(gòu)買的滿洲矮種馬和西伯利亞矮種馬在冰雪中迅速倒地;他沒(méi)有采用“狗拉雪橇”,而是采用“人拉雪橇”,也就是讓探險(xiǎn)隊(duì)員用人力拉動(dòng)滿載各種設(shè)備的雪橇。即使是在冰雪中舉步維艱的時(shí)候,斯科特探險(xiǎn)隊(duì)依舊在采集巖石等標(biāo)本。此次遠(yuǎn)征的結(jié)局非常悲慘:四名向南極點(diǎn)發(fā)起沖鋒的探險(xiǎn)隊(duì)員全部葬身冰原。飽受饑餓、凍傷折磨的勞倫斯·奧茨(四名隊(duì)員之一)甚至連靴子都沒(méi)穿就步入暴風(fēng)雪中,凄涼地結(jié)束了自己的生命。

In the taxonomy of travelers, the word “explorer” suggests a morally superior pioneer, a man or woman who braves the battle against nature to discover new terrain, expanding our species’ understanding of the world. “Adventurer,” by contrast, implies a self-indulgent adrenaline junkie, who scares loved ones by courting puerile risk. The former, obviously, is the far better title, but it’s tough to claim these days. The world is Google-mapped. Reaching the actual virgin territory of space or the deep ocean requires resources that few possess. In short, the noble fig leaf of terra incognita has fallen away and laid bare the peripatetic, outsize bravado of Scott’s kindred spirits. The resulting itineraries are pretty strange. We now have guys like Felix Baumgartner sky-diving from a balloon-borne capsule at 128,100 feet.

在旅行者的分類學(xué)中,“探險(xiǎn)家”指的是道德高尚的先驅(qū)者,他或她為了發(fā)現(xiàn)新的地域,勇于向大自然發(fā)起挑戰(zhàn),從而拓展了人類對(duì)世界的認(rèn)識(shí)。相反,“冒險(xiǎn)家”指的是自我放縱的腎上腺素迷。他們追求幼稚的冒險(xiǎn),讓心愛(ài)的人擔(dān)驚受怕。顯然,前者的含義遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)好于后者。但時(shí)至今日,要獲得“探險(xiǎn)家”的頭銜非常艱難。世界各地都為谷歌地圖所覆蓋,要抵達(dá)外太空或大洋深處真正的處女地又需要大量的資源,大多數(shù)人根本不會(huì)有。簡(jiǎn)而言之,“未知領(lǐng)域”凸顯了斯科特式的環(huán)游大冒險(xiǎn),但這塊華美的遮羞布已經(jīng)不復(fù)存在。旅行路線因而變得非常奇怪?,F(xiàn)在,我們有菲利克斯·保加拿這樣的冒險(xiǎn)家,這名跳傘好手從氣球懸吊的太空艙里一躍而下,征服了128100英尺的高度。
Baumgartner falls squarely — and for more than four minutes, breaking the speed of sound — into the adventurer camp. But then there’s Sarah Marquis, who perhaps should be seen as an explorer like Scott, born in the wrong age. She is 42 and Swiss, and has spent three of the past four years walking about 10,000 miles by herself, from Siberia through the Gobi Desert, China, Laos and Thailand, then taking a cargo boat to Brisbane, Australia, and walking across that continent. Along the way, like Scott, she has starved, she has frozen, she has (wo)man-hauled. She has pushed herself at great physical cost to places she wanted to love but ended up feeling, as Scott wrote of the South Pole in his journal: “Great God! This is an awful place.” Despite planning a ludicrous trip, and dying on it, Scott became beloved and, somewhat improbably, hugely respected. Marquis, meanwhile, can be confounding. “You tell people what you’re doing, and they say, ‘You’re crazy,’ ” Marquis told me. “It’s never: ‘Cool project, Sarah! Go for it.’ ” Perhaps this is because the territory Marquis explores is really internal — the nature of fear, the limits of stamina and self-reliance and the meaning of traveling in nature as a female human animal, alone.
歷時(shí)四分多鐘,保加拿成功完成了此次超音速跳傘,徑直跳入了冒險(xiǎn)家的陣營(yíng)。不過(guò),這里還有一位莎拉·馬奎斯。她或許應(yīng)該被視為斯科特式的探險(xiǎn)家,但卻生不逢時(shí)。在過(guò)去的四年中,這位現(xiàn)年42歲的瑞士女人用時(shí)三年,獨(dú)自走完了10000英里的征程:從西伯利亞出發(fā),穿越戈壁大沙漠、中國(guó)、老撾、泰國(guó);然后乘坐貨輪前往澳大利亞的布里斯班,進(jìn)而穿越澳洲。一路上,她也和斯科特一樣,經(jīng)歷了饑餓、冰凍、“人拉雪橇”。馬奎斯精疲力竭地抵達(dá)目的地后,才發(fā)覺(jué)這些自己本想用心去愛(ài)的地方原來(lái)與斯科特探險(xiǎn)日記中的南極點(diǎn)如出一轍:“天哪!這地方糟糕透了!”雖然斯科特導(dǎo)演了一次非?;奶频哪蠘O探險(xiǎn),最終還為此付出了生命,但他還是因此備受愛(ài)戴(多少有些難以置信)。不過(guò),馬奎斯可能會(huì)讓人感到驚詫。“你告訴別人你在做什么之后,別人會(huì)說(shuō)‘你瘋了’”馬奎斯對(duì)我說(shuō)道:“他們從來(lái)不會(huì)說(shuō)‘好酷的計(jì)劃,莎拉!試試看吧!’”也許這是因?yàn)轳R奎斯是在探索真正的內(nèi)在世界 – 畏懼的天性、毅力和自力更生的極限、一個(gè)人類女人獨(dú)自在大自然中旅行的含義。
Meeting Marquis is strange if you’ve only seen her trip photos. In those, she is filthy, her hair is a rat’s nest and her eyes are introspective, beseeching and very alert. In person, she’s beautiful and charming; she always has a smile for waiters and cabdrivers, and her bangs are so well cut that they make her seem French. (Marquis’s hairdresser squashed her idea of shaving her head for her recent trek, saying, “After all the work we’ve done?!”)
如果你只看過(guò)馬奎斯的旅行照片,你和她見面的時(shí)候就會(huì)覺(jué)得很陌生。旅行照片里的馬奎斯非常邋遢,頭發(fā)如鼠窩一般糟亂,目光內(nèi)省、懇切而又非常機(jī)警。但實(shí)際上馬奎斯是一個(gè)美麗迷人的女子。她總是微笑面對(duì)服務(wù)生和出租車司機(jī),一頭劉海剪得非常齊整,看上去像法國(guó)人。(馬奎斯最近想把頭發(fā)剃掉方便探險(xiǎn),但美發(fā)師堅(jiān)決否決了這一提議“我們把頭發(fā)做的這么漂亮,你難道要全剪掉?!”)
Marquis grew up in Montsevelier, a village of 500 people in the Jura Mountains, in what Marquis describes as “the northern part of Switzerland — it’s not the nice part.” Her father, who worked as an engineer, paid Marquis one franc for every 100 slugs she picked out of the family garden. She befriended the family ewe, Moumou, and trained the pet rabbit to come when called. She liked people less. “My mom had nine sisters, and my dad had eight sisters and brothers, and those aunts and uncles all had three or four kids, so it was a big, screaming family, and for me it was a nightmare,” Marquis told me when I met her last winter in Washington. At age 8 she ran into the woods with her dog and spent the night in a cave. Marquis’s mother called the police, but when Marquis returned, her mother didn’t scold. Fighting Marquis’s wanderlust was hopeless.
馬奎斯在侏羅山里、人口500的芒特塞韋利耶村長(zhǎng)大。她稱此地為“瑞士北部 – 不是好看的那部分。”馬奎斯在家庭花園里每捉到100只蛞蝓,就可以向工程師父親換取1瑞士法郎。她把家養(yǎng)的母羊沫沫當(dāng)作朋友對(duì)待,訓(xùn)練寵物兔聽到號(hào)令后立刻趕來(lái),但她不怎么喜歡人?!拔覌層芯沤忝茫野钟邪藗€(gè)兄弟姐妹。這些叔叔伯伯姑姑姨姨每人又有三到四個(gè)孩子。在這個(gè)龐大的家庭里,尖叫之聲不絕于耳。這個(gè)家就是我的噩夢(mèng)”去年冬天我們?cè)谌A盛頓見面時(shí)馬奎斯如是說(shuō)。8歲那年,馬奎斯?fàn)恐放苓M(jìn)森林,在洞穴里過(guò)了一夜。母親焦急地報(bào)了警,但馬奎斯回家后,她并沒(méi)予以訓(xùn)斥,因?yàn)橄胍淖凂R奎斯的旅行癖是根本不可能的。
When she was 16, Marquis answered a classified ad for a train company that promised free travel. She loved the idea of seeing Paris and Milan, but once Marquis started work, her colleagues, almost all of whom were older men, harassed her relentlessly. On the first day one man claimed he could smell that Marquis had her period. The experience was a boot camp — punishing but character-strengthening. “I learned how to build myself,” she said. “I built the tough skin I needed for later on. I learned how men worked.”
16歲那年,馬奎斯回復(fù)了一家承諾提供免費(fèi)旅游的鐵路公司的分類廣告。她很想親眼感受巴黎和米蘭,但在工作伊始就遭到了同事們(基本上是老男人)持續(xù)不斷的騷擾。工作第一天,一個(gè)男人宣稱他能嗅出馬奎斯來(lái)了例假。這段如新兵訓(xùn)練營(yíng)般的工作經(jīng)歷讓馬奎斯飽嘗艱辛,但也錘煉了她的性格?!拔覍W(xué)會(huì)了該如何讓自己變得堅(jiān)強(qiáng),”馬奎斯說(shuō)道:“我鍛煉出了日后所需的一身硬骨。我學(xué)會(huì)了男人的工作方式?!?/div>
Marquis’s desire to travel began to coalesce around the question of whether she could survive by herself in nature. First, she decided to ride a horse across Turkey. On that trip, she ate apricots off trees and slept with her head on her saddle. Muslim women bathed her in warm goat’s milk. But after that, Marquis’s itineraries veered away from romance and pleasure into solitude and suffering. In her early 20s she flew to New Zealand and set out on a four-day backpacking trip with some noodles, a huge radio and three or four books — “everything except what I needed.” The outing, by typical standards, was a fiasco. Day 1 it poured; Marquis didn’t know how to set up her tent, and she was freezing and bored because, she now said wryly, “at night there was nothing to do.” But near the end of the trip she had a sort-of epiphany. “Something happened,” she said. (Articulating her reasons for pursuing her travels is not one of Marquis’s strengths.) “Over the years I’ve had this feeling again and again.” Chasing that inexplicable sensation is why she walks.
為了確定自己能否在大自然中獨(dú)自求生,馬奎斯?jié)u漸產(chǎn)生了旅行的渴望。剛開始,她決定騎馬穿越土耳其。在這段旅途中,她吃著樹上掉下的杏子,枕著馬鞍入眠。穆斯林婦女用溫?zé)岬纳窖蚰虨樗丛 5撕?,馬奎斯的旅行漸漸與浪漫與歡樂(lè)無(wú)緣,等待她的是孤獨(dú)與痛苦。二十來(lái)歲的時(shí)候,馬奎斯飛往新西蘭,開始進(jìn)行為期四天的背包旅行。她帶了些面條、一臺(tái)大型收音機(jī)、三四本書 – “什么都帶了,就是沒(méi)帶自己需要的東西。”根據(jù)正常標(biāo)準(zhǔn)判斷,馬奎斯此行可謂慘敗。第一天大雨傾盆;馬奎斯不知該如何支起帳篷。身上冰涼,心中無(wú)聊。“晚上根本無(wú)事可做,”她現(xiàn)在苦笑著說(shuō)道。然而在此次遠(yuǎn)足即將結(jié)束的時(shí)候,馬奎斯突然明白了什么?!鞍l(fā)生了一些事情,”她說(shuō)道。(闡明旅行的原因并非馬奎斯的強(qiáng)項(xiàng)。)“這些年來(lái),這種感覺(jué)一次又一次地涌上我的心頭?!彼龍?jiān)持旅行,就是為了追求那樣一種難以名狀的感覺(jué)。
Marquis spent the winter after that trip earning money by bartending in Verbier, a fancy off-piste ski resort in the Alps. The next summer she returned to New Zealand. This time she walked into the South Island’s Kahurangi National Park without food to see if she could survive for 30 days. That trip, too, was a trial. Marquis failed at spearfishing, consumed only mussels and lost 20 pounds. But she not only recaptured that inchoate feeling she craved; she also glimpsed the savageness of her desire. “That was the first time I actually got in touch with the wild,” Marquis said. “You know when you’re really, really hungry? You have to teach yourself that food is not a big issue. You just need sleep and sweet water.”
遠(yuǎn)足結(jié)束后,馬奎斯在阿爾卑斯山的越野滑雪勝地韋爾比耶當(dāng)酒吧招待賺取金錢,度過(guò)了一個(gè)冬天。第二年夏天她重回新西蘭,不帶食物就走進(jìn)了南島卡胡朗吉國(guó)家公園,想知道自己能否在野外生存30天。但此次旅行依舊是場(chǎng)痛苦的試練。由于不會(huì)用魚叉捕魚,馬奎斯不得不以貽貝為食,瘦了整整20磅。然而,她不但找回了夢(mèng)寐以求的旅行初心,而且得以一見心中的野性。“這是我第一次真正接觸野外,”馬奎斯說(shuō)道?!澳阒滥闶裁磿r(shí)候會(huì)真正感到饑餓。你必須教會(huì)自己,食物并不是大問(wèn)題。你只需要睡眠和甜水?!?/div>
Marquis returned to Switzerland and embraced the cycle — work for money, then leave on some extreme challenge she devised for herself. She canoed through Canada’s Algonquin park without knowing how to portage; she was attacked by beavers camping near water in Patagonia; she hiked the 2,650-mile Pacific Crest Trail. She remained captivated by what she describes as “this wild call from inside me” and decided to walk 8,700 miles around Australia.
馬奎斯回到瑞士,繼續(xù)工作–旅行的循環(huán) – 工作掙錢,然后奔向自己為自己設(shè)計(jì)的極限挑戰(zhàn)。她不知道如何水陸聯(lián)運(yùn),卻劃著獨(dú)木舟穿越了加拿大阿岡昆公園;她在巴塔哥尼亞的水域附近宿營(yíng)時(shí)遭到了河貍的攻擊;她走完了全長(zhǎng)2650英里的太平洋山脊步道。馬奎斯依舊沉醉于她所稱的“內(nèi)心深處的野性呼喚”,并決定環(huán)游澳大利亞,走完全長(zhǎng)8700英里的征程。
For that trip, Marquis lined up her first sponsor, the North Face. She doesn’t think she impressed the company by her pitch. She believes it gave her a few backpacks, a couple of tents and some clothes because, she said, “when I told them what I was going to do, they thought, We can’t let that little thing go out without gear.” To supplement the inadequate supply of noodles she could carry, Marquis brought a slingshot, a blow gun, some wire to make snares and a net for catching insects. In the warm months, Marquis ate goannas, geckos and bearded dragons. In the cold months, when the reptiles hid, she subsisted on an Aboriginal standby, witchetty grubs — white, caterpillar-size moth larvae that live in the roots of Mulga trees. (Raw, Marquis said, they taste like unsweetened condensed milk; seared in hot sand, they crisp up nicely.) Throughout, Marquis tried to minimize human contact. She hid her femininity with loose clothes, big sunglasses, hair piled up in a hat. When water was scarce, she collected condensation, either by digging a deep hole and lining the cool bottom with plastic or by tying a tarp around a bush. If those techniques didn’t yield enough liquid — and they rarely did — she drank snake blood. At night Marquis slept close to the trunks of trees, touching the bark in a way that she describes as “almost carnal.” She fell in love with a particular twisted and wind-bent Western myall tree on Australia’s Nullarbor Plain.
為環(huán)游澳洲,馬奎斯開始和自己的第一位贊助商 – 樂(lè)斯菲斯(the North Face)接觸。她認(rèn)為自己的游說(shuō)并沒(méi)有用給這家公司留下深刻印象,但她還是相信公司會(huì)提供一些背包、幾頂帳篷、若干衣服,因?yàn)椤爱?dāng)我對(duì)他們說(shuō)我準(zhǔn)備干什么的時(shí)候,他們想,我們不能什么設(shè)備都不帶就動(dòng)身?!庇捎跓o(wú)法攜帶足量的面條補(bǔ)給,馬奎斯還攜帶了一把彈弓、一把吹槍、幾條用以制作陷阱、羅網(wǎng)捕捉昆蟲的金屬線。在這溫暖的幾個(gè)月里,馬奎斯以澳洲巨蜥、壁虎、松獅蜥為食。在寒冷的幾個(gè)月里,由于爬行動(dòng)物都躲了起來(lái),她只能靠澳洲土著的應(yīng)急食品 – 在澳大利亞圍籬樹根部生活的木蠹蛾幼蟲維生。(她說(shuō)這種蟲子生吃的味道有點(diǎn)像不加糖的煉乳,如果在滾熱的沙子上烤過(guò)之后這些蟲子就會(huì)變得酥脆可口。)自始自終,馬奎斯都盡量減少與人類的聯(lián)系。她穿上寬松的衣服,戴上大型太陽(yáng)鏡,再把頭發(fā)盤進(jìn)帽子里,從而將自己的女性氣質(zhì)隱藏起來(lái)。如果飲水不足,馬奎斯就挖個(gè)深洞,在底部鋪上塑料薄膜或把防水布系在灌木上收集凝結(jié)水。萬(wàn)一這些技巧也無(wú)法獲得足夠的飲水,她就飲用蛇血。晚上睡覺(jué)的時(shí)候馬奎斯就貼著樹干,用自己稱之為“近乎于情欲”的方式摩挲樹皮。她愛(ài)上了一棵澳大利亞納拉伯平原上被風(fēng)吹彎、格外扭曲的西部垂枝相思樹。
On June 20, 2010, Marquis’s 38th birthday, she set out to walk from Siberia through Asia and, once back in Australia, trek to her beloved tree. The video of Marquis walking away from her starting point in Irkutsk feels like the setup for a horror film. “Hello, O.K., so here we are,” she said just before turning away from the camera. “Time to go now!” On her back is a 75-pound pack, and trailing behind her, overflowing with gear secured by bungee cords, is a custom-made cart that looks like a cross between a wheelbarrow and a giant roller bag — her dry-land sled. After Australia, Marquis couldn’t handle slaughtering more animals; she says it felt “l(fā)ike killing a friend.” So she decided to carry rice and hard biscuits (the latter inedible without “a nice, hot cup of tea”), which meant she would need to pull a cart. It now weighed 120 pounds.
2010年6月20日,馬奎斯在自己38歲生日這天踏上了18000英里的征程,從西伯利亞出發(fā),然后穿過(guò)亞洲。這一次她又回到了澳大利亞,一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)地走向那顆心愛(ài)相思樹。馬奎斯從起點(diǎn)伊爾庫(kù)茨克出發(fā)時(shí)拍攝的視頻感覺(jué)有點(diǎn)像恐怖電影。“你們好!我們正在這里,”馬奎斯說(shuō)完便轉(zhuǎn)身離開了鏡頭?!霸摮霭l(fā)了!”她背著75磅重的行李包,后面拖著一輛定制馬車。各種各樣的設(shè)備用彈力繩固定在馬車上,把馬車塞得滿滿當(dāng)當(dāng)。這輛馬車就是馬奎斯的旱地雪橇,其外形兼具獨(dú)輪車和巨型拖輪箱的特點(diǎn)。穿過(guò)澳大利亞后,馬奎斯不愿再宰殺動(dòng)物,因?yàn)檫@感覺(jué)就像“殺自己的朋友”。所以她決定攜帶米飯和硬質(zhì)餅干(不就著“一杯熱騰騰的香茶”這餅干就沒(méi)法吃)。這就意味著她要拉動(dòng)一輛馬車,而這輛車現(xiàn)在已重達(dá)120磅。
To prepare for the expedition, Marquis spent two years walking or snowshoeing 20 miles a day, wearing 75 pounds. On the trip itself, she carried, among other things, five pairs of underwear, a large pocketknife, wide-spectrum antibiotics, tea-tree oil for massaging her feet, a solar-powered charger, a beacon, a BlackBerry, a satellite phone, Crocs, a compass, a tiny emergency stash of amphetamines (“that’s the backup backup backup of the backup; in case you lose a foot and you need to get out and not feel a thing”) and pink merino-wool pajamas (“you put them on and you feel good, you feel gorgeous”).
為準(zhǔn)備此次遠(yuǎn)征,馬奎斯用了兩年的時(shí)間準(zhǔn)備:負(fù)重75磅,每天步行或穿雪鞋步行20英里。在此次旅途中,馬奎斯攜帶的物品包括五套內(nèi)衣、一把大折疊刀、廣譜抗生素、用來(lái)按摩足部的茶樹精油、一個(gè)太陽(yáng)能充電器、一臺(tái)無(wú)線電發(fā)送器、一個(gè)黑莓手機(jī)、一臺(tái)衛(wèi)星電話、一雙卡駱馳鞋、一個(gè)指南針、一小點(diǎn)應(yīng)急用的安非他明(“這是備用品的備用品的備用品的備用品;萬(wàn)一你斷了一只腳,需要毫無(wú)痛覺(jué)地走出困境的時(shí)候才用”)和粉紅色美利奴羊毛睡衣(“穿上去感覺(jué)非常好,感覺(jué)自己非常性感漂亮”)。
The afternoon she departed from Irktusk, Marquis walked just a few miles and set down her load. “That first day I don’t even eat or do anything,” Marquis explains. “By that point, I’m so exhausted, it’s unbelievable.”
那天下午,馬奎斯離開伊爾庫(kù)茨克踏上征程。但她只走了幾英里就卸下了負(fù)重?!暗谝惶煳乙稽c(diǎn)東西都沒(méi)吃,一點(diǎn)事情都沒(méi)做,”馬奎斯解釋道?!暗侥菚r(shí)候,我就已經(jīng)筋疲力盡,真是無(wú)法相信?!?/div>
In truth, the first six months on Marquis’s trips are always harrowing. She describes it as “the washing machine”: endless agitation, physical pain, emotional pain, nonstop bargaining among opposing internal voices — the inner demons that whisper, Remember the delicious foam on the cafe latte? and the inner angels that reprimand, Coffee isn’t accessible now, so why talk about it? “You can’t move your hands, you can’t move your feet, you just want to die,” Marquis said. “You think about sleep all the time, because maybe sleep will set things straight.”
事實(shí)上,馬奎斯在前六個(gè)月的旅途中一直備受煎熬。她將其描述為“洗衣機(jī)”:無(wú)休無(wú)止的攪動(dòng)、身體上的痛苦、情感上的折磨、內(nèi)心深處總是有兩種截然相反的聲音在談判 – 心中的惡魔在喃喃細(xì)語(yǔ),記得拿鐵咖啡上的美味泡沫嗎?心中的天使在嚴(yán)厲斥責(zé),現(xiàn)在根本喝不到咖啡,說(shuō)這個(gè)干嘛?“你的手動(dòng)不了,你的腳也動(dòng)不了,你只想去死,”馬奎斯說(shuō)道。“你滿腦子都在想睡覺(jué)的事情,因?yàn)橐挥X(jué)醒來(lái)后,可能就會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)大大小小的事情已經(jīng)理順了?!?/div>
A few months into her journey, Marquis shot a video of herself in her sleeping bag. Like a hostage clutching a newspaper, she holds a thermometer that reads minus 20 Celsius. “I don’t sleep much these days. I do not know what time it is. Maybe midnight, or something like that?” In the next day’s video, she looks wrecked. The previous night a wind- and sandstorm ripped across the Mongolian plains. To keep the nylon of her tent from tearing, Marquis removed the metal poles holding it up. But she still feared the gales would blow away her gear, so she unzipped herself from her collapsed shelter and lay atop her pack, tent and cart.
幾個(gè)月后,馬奎斯拍攝了一段自己縮在睡袋里的視頻。她緊緊握著一支讀數(shù)為零下20℃的溫度計(jì),就像一個(gè)人質(zhì)緊緊抓著一張報(bào)紙?!斑@些天來(lái)我睡的并不多。我根本不知道時(shí)間。現(xiàn)在是午夜?還是午夜前后?”在第二天的視頻里,馬奎斯看上去非常憔悴。前天晚上,風(fēng)沙暴在蒙古平原上肆虐。為防止尼龍帳篷被撕裂,馬奎斯移走了起支撐作用的金屬桿。不過(guò)她還是害怕設(shè)備被狂風(fēng)卷走,于是她走出塌下的帳篷,躺在包裹、帳篷和馬車上面,用身體壓住它們。
Another night during those first months, while Marquis camped on a vast, overgrazed steppe that she describes as looking like an ugly golf course, she heard horses galloping toward her. The visitors turned out to be Mongol horsemen, all in traditional overcoat-like deels, making a vodka-fueled raid on her camp. After trying to steal her tent, they rode off. But for weeks, in the evenings, the men returned, treating Marquis, she said, as “the little entertainment.” To protect herself, she began waking before dawn, walking until midafternoon, then looking for a place to hide for the night — if possible, in a cement sewage pipe. “Everything is going on under those roads,” she said. “There is waste. There are dead sheep. But for me it was not a problem. I was safe.”
還有一件事也發(fā)生在最初幾個(gè)月的旅行里。某天晚上,馬奎斯在一片過(guò)度放牧的遼闊干草原(她稱此地為丑陋的高爾夫球場(chǎng))上宿營(yíng)的時(shí)候,聽到有馬隊(duì)向他奔來(lái)。一群身穿傳統(tǒng)蒙古長(zhǎng)袍的蒙古騎手來(lái)到了她的身邊,借著伏特加的酒勁襲擊了她的營(yíng)地。這群人為偷取帳篷嘗試了一會(huì)之后,就騎馬離開了。但在接下來(lái)的幾周里,每當(dāng)夜幕降臨的時(shí)候,這群人就會(huì)回來(lái),“以戲弄馬奎斯為樂(lè)。”為保護(hù)自己,馬奎斯在黎明前就醒來(lái),一直走到下午三點(diǎn)鐘左右,然后開始尋找夜晚的藏身之處。如果可以的話,就待在水泥污水管里過(guò)夜?!拔鬯芾锸裁磥y七八糟的都有”她說(shuō)到,“有垃圾。有死羊。但對(duì)我而這這些都不是問(wèn)題。因?yàn)槲抑辽偈前踩??!?/div>
Eventually, however, Marquis passed out of Mongol territory. The washing-machine cycle ended. Her body changed, and her mind changed, too. Her senses sharpened to the point that she could smell shampoo on a tourist’s hair from a mile away. “One day you walk 12 hours, and you don’t feel pain,” Marquis said. The past and present telescope down to an all-consuming now. “There is no before or after. The intellect doesn’t drive you anymore. It doesn’t exist anymore. You become what nature needs you to be: this wild thing.”
終于,馬奎斯走出了蒙古?!跋匆聶C(jī)式”的怪圈終于也停止了。她的身體有了變化,心理也有了變化。她的感官變得異常敏銳,即使是一英里開外游客頭上洗發(fā)精的味道也可以嗅出?!澳阋惶煨凶?2小時(shí),但一點(diǎn)都不覺(jué)得痛?!瘪R奎斯說(shuō)道。過(guò)去和現(xiàn)在的美好展望在此刻全部消失于無(wú)形?!斑@里沒(méi)有從前或以后。智力再也不能再引導(dǎo)你前進(jìn)。智力已經(jīng)不復(fù)存在了。你必須按照大自然的要求,回歸野性?!?/div>
As Francis Spufford writes in his history of British polar exploration, “I May Be Some Time,” for ages, men have wandered intentionally into extreme hardship, and they “are notoriously bad at saying why.” Marquis and her female peers — women who, say, walk across the Sahara alone with a camel or pull a 200-pound sled to the South Pole — don’t explain it much better. “People always ask, ‘Was it something in your childhood?’ ” says Felicity Aston, the first woman to ski solo across Antarctica. “I’ve thought about it endlessly: no.”
就像《過(guò)一會(huì)回來(lái)》(朗西斯·斯巴福德所寫的英國(guó)極地探險(xiǎn)史)所描述的那樣,數(shù)十年來(lái),男人們總是有意識(shí)地步入極苦之地,卻“眾所周知地不善于說(shuō)明原因”。和男人們相比,馬奎斯和其他女子探險(xiǎn)家在這方面也不太擅長(zhǎng),盡管她們之中不乏騎著駱駝、獨(dú)自穿越撒哈拉沙漠,或拉著200磅重的雪橇抵達(dá)南極點(diǎn)的勇士。人們總是問(wèn)我,“你小時(shí)候是不是受了什么刺激?”第一位獨(dú)自滑雪穿越南極洲的女子極地探險(xiǎn)家費(fèi)莉絲蒂·艾斯頓說(shuō)道?!拔宜记跋牒螅€是覺(jué)得自己沒(méi)受過(guò)什么刺激。”
The rest of Marquis’s trip was not all Zen bliss. Seven months into the walk, she lost a molar. Her gum abscessed, and the attendant infection, which couldn’t be controlled with the antibiotics, started moving down her neck, and she had to be evacuated from Mongolia. Marquis returned to the precise G.P.S. coordinates she left and made it to China, where, one day, some children followed her. She sang with them and taught them how to set up her tent — and then they stole her BlackBerry. In Laos, drug dealers descended on Marquis’s camp one night, firing their automatic weapons into the air. Soon after that, Marquis contracted dengue fever. She tied her left leg to a tree so she wouldn’t wander off in her delirium and drown herself in a river.
在接下來(lái)的旅程里,馬奎斯體驗(yàn)到的并不只有禪的喜悅。出發(fā)七個(gè)月后,她掉了一顆臼齒。牙齦化膿了,隨之而來(lái)的感染無(wú)法用抗生素控制,開始向脖子延伸,馬奎斯不得不從蒙古撤離。此后,根據(jù)GPS坐標(biāo)的精確指示,馬奎斯回到了中途離開的地方,繼續(xù)前進(jìn)。她抵達(dá)中國(guó),有一天遇到了幾個(gè)小孩。孩子們跟在她背后,她和他們一起唱歌,教他們?nèi)绾伟阉膸づ裰饋?lái)??墒?,這幾個(gè)小孩卻把她的黑莓手機(jī)偷走了。在老撾,毒品販子突然襲擊了她的營(yíng)地,手持自動(dòng)武器向空中開火。此后不久,馬奎斯染上了登革熱。她把左腿綁在樹上,以防在神經(jīng)錯(cuò)亂的時(shí)候四處亂走,把自己淹死在河里。
The trip smoothed out during the last year. Thailand was uneventful. Australia was lovely, despite the heat and the last couple of hundred miles, when Marquis’s legs cramped so badly that it was difficult to walk. She wrote a book about the experience, “Wild by Nature” (available only in French). The last page is profoundly anticlimactic. “I have arrived,” Marquis writes. “I touch the back of the tree with my right hand. ‘I’m back, darling.’ I sit down.”
最后一年的旅程比較順利。泰國(guó)之旅波瀾不驚。澳大利亞之旅則比較美好,盡管在她腿部嚴(yán)重抽筋難以移動(dòng)的時(shí)候,還有最后幾百英里要走,天氣也非??釤?。她把這段經(jīng)歷寫成了《生來(lái)狂野》(只有法文版)。書的最后,用非常質(zhì)樸的話語(yǔ)為這段波瀾壯闊的旅程畫上了句點(diǎn)。“我到了,”馬奎斯寫道?!拔矣沂謸崦强梦倚膼?ài)的相思樹,‘親愛(ài)的,我回來(lái)了?!易讼聛?lái)。”
In Washington last winter, Marquis met with people from the National Geographic Speakers Bureau, because that’s what explorers do (and pretty much have always done): come home and sell their stories. It was nine months after re-entry into mainstream life, and she was happy to return to some physical comforts: sleeping in a bed, taking two baths a day. But she found being among people overwhelming, and her senses remained so acute that even just sitting in a cafeteria was grating. “You hear the dishwasher?” Marquis asked me, pointing toward an unseen kitchen. I shook my head. Marquis said, resigned, “There’s a radio playing back there, too.”
去年冬天,馬奎斯在華盛頓和國(guó)家地理演講人論壇的成員會(huì)面。探險(xiǎn)家們通常都會(huì)做這樣一件事(他們基本上都這樣做了):回到家鄉(xiāng),用自己的探險(xiǎn)經(jīng)歷換取金錢。9個(gè)月后,馬奎斯回歸了主流生活,能夠再次獲得某些身體上的舒適她感到很開心:睡在床上,一天洗兩次澡。但她也發(fā)現(xiàn)自己處在人堆里時(shí)會(huì)感到很壓抑;她的感官依舊敏銳,即使就在自助餐廳里坐著也會(huì)感到很難受?!澳懵犚娤赐霗C(jī)的聲音了嗎?”馬奎斯問(wèn)我,指著那看不見的廚房。我搖了搖頭。馬奎斯無(wú)奈放棄了,說(shuō)道,“那里還有臺(tái)收音機(jī)在播音。”
Marquis plans to return to northwest Australia in 2016. She said it’s her “dream to go with just a sarong and a knife” — the ultimate test of survival. It’s hard not to wonder where these urges come from. Geneticists, neuroscientists, psychologists and religious scholars have all taken stabs at answering, with unsatisfying results. But perhaps the real reason to court a sufferfest — to explore or adventure, or whatever you want to call it — is that it makes a person feel alive. The literature of survival is weirdly upbeat. A few days before dying, in 1912, Robert Falcon Scott wrote a letter telling a friend that he wished that friend were with him “to hear our songs and the cheery conversation.” The day of his death, Scott said of his trip, “How much better has it been than lounging in too great comfort at home.”
馬奎斯計(jì)劃于2016年重返澳大利亞西北部。她說(shuō)“我的愿望就是系好圍裙,拿把刀,然后去旅行!”。這將是野外生存的終極試練。人們很難不好奇,這樣的渴求究竟來(lái)自何方?遺傳學(xué)家、神經(jīng)學(xué)家、心理學(xué)家和宗教學(xué)者都想要解開這一謎題,但沒(méi)有人獲得令人滿意的結(jié)果。不過(guò),能夠讓一個(gè)人感受到生命的氣息,也許就是追求“苦難之旅”的真正原因。這種“苦難之旅”可稱之為“探險(xiǎn)”,也可稱之為“冒險(xiǎn)”,或者你也可以自己想個(gè)說(shuō)法。野外生存類的文學(xué)作品總是出奇地積極向上。1912年,還有幾天就將接到死神召喚的羅伯特·法爾肯·斯科特在信中對(duì)一位朋友說(shuō),他希望朋友能和自己一起“聆聽我們的歌聲,聆聽愉快的談話?!倍谟铀郎竦哪且惶欤箍铺卣f(shuō)起此次南極之旅,“來(lái)南極探險(xiǎn),比待在舒舒服服的家里要美好得多。”
Of course, if you don’t die — well, then the experience of extreme travel is fantastic. After swimming across a river infested with crocodiles, Marquis wrote that every time she finds herself in the bush, “my happiness increases tenfold.” Perhaps among the purest expressions of joy ever recorded is of the Norwegian explorer Aleksander Gamme on the 86th day of his unsupported 1,410-mile expedition from Hercules Inlet to the South Pole and back in 2012. Desperately hungry and dreadlocked, he comes upon a cache that he buried in the snow for himself a few months earlier. From the frozen duffel he pulls matches, Vaseline and zinc ointment. Then he starts screaming: “YEAAAAA! AAAAHHH! HAHA! YEAA! WHOOOWHOOO.” His elation at seeing a double pack of Cheez Doodles might be greater than any most of us will feel in our entire lives.
當(dāng)然,如果你沒(méi)死,極限旅行將帶給你非常美妙的經(jīng)歷。游過(guò)一條遍布鱷魚的河流之后,馬奎斯寫道每當(dāng)她走進(jìn)灌木叢,“我就會(huì)開心十倍?!?012年,挪威探險(xiǎn)家亞歷山大·格默在無(wú)人支持的條件下,從海格拉斯灣出發(fā),抵達(dá)南極點(diǎn)后返回,歷程1410英里。他在出發(fā)后第86天所說(shuō)的話也許就是有記錄的、對(duì)喜悅之情最為純粹的表述。那一天,饑腸轆轆,蓄著“駭人”長(zhǎng)發(fā)綹的格默意外發(fā)現(xiàn)了幾個(gè)月前自己埋在雪里的給養(yǎng)。他從結(jié)了冰的旅行包里拿出火柴,凡士林和氧化鋅軟膏,然后開始尖叫:“耶~~~~?。。““~!!!哈哈?。。∫畘!喔~~喔~~”格默發(fā)現(xiàn)兩袋芝士奶酪(Cheez Doodles)后欣喜若狂,大多數(shù)人終其一生可能都未曾感受過(guò)這種狂喜。

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cement [si'ment]

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n. 水泥,紐帶,接合劑,牙骨質(zhì),補(bǔ)牙物,基石

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typical ['tipikəl]

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adj. 典型的,有代表性的,特有的,獨(dú)特的

 
ludicrous ['lu:dikrəs]

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adj. 荒謬的,可笑的,滑稽的

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protect [prə'tekt]

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vt. 保護(hù),投保

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blizzard ['blizəd]

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n. 暴風(fēng)雪 n. 暴雪 極負(fù)盛名的美國(guó)游戲軟件制作公司

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adv. 臭名昭著地,眾所周知地

 
traditional [trə'diʃənəl]

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fiasco [fi'æskəu]

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n. 溫度計(jì)

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compass ['kʌmpəs]

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n. 指南針,圓規(guī)
vt. 圖謀,包圍,達(dá)成

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