
Gucci and Tom Ford are not alone in their velvet blazer adoration. Giorgio Armani offers a classic two-button style in black velvet with deep lapels (1,400); Dolce &Gabbana, with its navy single-breasted blazer (605, from Harvey Nichols); and Etro, courtesy of a neatly tailored jacket in deep purple velvet (830) have also fallen for this style. Angelo Galasso, an Italian men’s wear designer with a store in London, has velvet shoes to match his silk-lined, piped-edged, five-pocket velvet jackets with working cuffs (1,750)。
并非只有古姿與湯姆·福特鐘情于天鵝絨運動夾克。喬治·阿瑪尼也推出了一款經典的黑色兩粒扣深翻領天鵝絨夾克(售價為1400歐元);杜嘉班納則推出了海軍服風格的單排扣運動夾克(夏菲尼高(Harvey Nichols) 百貨店的售價為605歐元);埃特羅(Etro)也附庸風雅,不失時機地精心推出了制作精良的深紫色運動夾克(售價為830歐元)。意大利男裝設計師安吉洛·加拉索(Angelo Galasso)在倫敦設有分店,他設計了帶工作袖套、以絲綢作里襯,再用天鵝絨鞋來搭配的五個口袋的滾邊型天鵝絨夾克(售價為1750歐元)。
British designers are no less enthusiastic, albeit in a slightly more low-key way, from Paul Smith London’s easy-cut jacket (425) to Ede &Ravenscroft’s ready-to-wear smoking jackets in a variety of rich shades (550). Savile Row is also softening to the smoking look. “We have at least one bespoke velvet jacket going through at the moment,” says Patrick Grant of Norton and Sons. “But velvet is a tough cloth to work with. Smoking jackets are one of those items in a man’s wardrobe that can be spectacular when well-cut and well-made, but can also be spectacularly bad if poorly cut。”
英國設計師雖說顯得較為低調,但熱情也絲毫不減: 從Paul Smith London推出的簡易款夾克(售價425英鎊)到埃德和拉芬斯克洛夫(Ede &Ravenscroft)推出的的多款現成的強色調晚便裝(售價為550英鎊)。專注男子高級純手工定制的薩佛街(Savile Row)也放下了架子,向休閑風格轉型。“我們目前至少已有一款全定制天鵝絨夾克正在推介,” 諾頓父子(Norton &Sons)的帕特里克·格蘭特(Patrick Grant)說。“但天鵝絨是種很難伺候的面料。男士衣柜里有上幾套裁剪了得、制作考究的晚便裝會讓人增輝出彩,但若是裁剪功夫拙劣,做出的夾克穿在身上會慘不忍睹。”