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Hybrid foods
混合食物
Matches made in heaven—and hell
美味佳肴，還是黑暗料理？
What do you get if you cross a waffle with a doughnut? It's no joke
如果你將華夫餅干與甜甜圈混合會得到什么？這不是開玩笑。
NOT all marriages are happy, but Alex Hernandez thinks that the union of a waffle and a doughnut will be. The owner of Waffles Cafe in Chicago starting selling what he calls “wonuts” in April. They are deep-fried waffles, topped with icing and multicoloured sprinkles. Daily sales went from 24 to 600 within two days. Buzzfeed, a website, called the new snack “proof that a benevolent Food God exists”.
并不是所有的婚姻都是幸福的，但是亞歷克斯·赫爾南德斯認為華夫餅和甜甜圈的組合會很幸福。芝加哥的華夫咖啡館店主于四月開始售賣他叫做“wonuts”的甜品。它們是油炸的華夫餅，表面加上糖衣和五顏六色的巧克力屑。日銷售量在兩天之內從24猛增至600。網站Buzzfeed把這種新型小甜品叫做“仁慈食神存在的證據”。
Hybrid dishes are fashionable. The wonut follows the cronut, a croissant-donut combination that was invented in New York last year and is now being fried and munched in Taiwan, South Korea, Brazil, Britain—and even France, where you'd think diners would be fussier.
混合菜肴很流行。Wonut是在牛角甜甜圈——紐約于去年發明的一款牛角面包與甜甜圈的搭配組合之后推出的一款新甜品，如今已風靡臺灣、南韓、巴西和英國，甚至連對飲食很挑剔的法國都鐘情于它。
Many countries indulge in culinary mixing, but Americans, who love both novelty and food, are especially keen on it. Burger King's Croissan'Wich is a croissant-sandwich mix. Taco Bell's quesarito is a beef burrito wrapped in a quesadilla. J&D's Foods produces Baconnaise, bacon-flavoured mayonnaise that is, oddly, vegetarian and kosher-certified. Carl's Jr is testing a bisnut, a cross between a biscuit (in the American sense of the word) and a doughnut. Not everyone is impressed. “Leave it to fast food to think of new and exciting ways to make you have to buy two seats on an airplane. A breakfast-dessert hybrid. You're barely awake and you're already getting all your calories for the day,” grumbles Jeff Sorensen of Uproxx, an online magazine.
許多國家都喜歡混合烹飪，而美國人這種既喜歡新奇又喜歡食物的人對此尤其鐘愛。漢堡王的Croissan'Wich是羊角面包和三明治的混合。塔可鐘的quesarito是外面裹有油炸玉米粉餅的牛肉卷餅。J&D的食品產業生產Baconnaise——培根風味的蛋黃醬，但有趣的是，猶太教和素食主義者都適用。卡樂星正在測試一款bisnut—小餅干和甜甜圈的組合。并不是每個人都會被打動。“在快餐上使用這個點子，想出新的有趣的方法來讓你不得不在一架飛機上買兩個位子。早餐混合甜點，你還在打著瞌睡，就已經攝入了一天所需的卡路里，” 一家在線雜志Uproxx的杰夫·索倫森抱怨說。
Such innovation has a long history. Blacks who migrated north after the Civil War served African-spiced fried chicken with European waffles. In the 1910s, Americans drenched German frankfurters with Mexican chili to make chili dogs. More recently, New Yorkers drew on the collective genius of generations of Jewish and Italian cooks to produce: the pizza bagel.
這種創新歷史悠久。內戰之后遷移到北方的黑人把歐洲華夫餅和非洲五香炸雞混合在了一起。在20世紀10年代，美國人把德國法蘭克福香腸浸透了墨西哥紅辣椒，做成了辣椒熱狗。最近，紐約人民利用世代傳下來的猶太和意大利的烹飪智慧制造出了：披薩百吉餅。
Because America is a nation of immigrants, it has many traditions to mine. But because many cooks try to please everyone, ethnic recipes have often been tweaked so as not to offend unfamiliar palates. “You take something that's different, and you make it similar,” says Roger Horowitz of the Hagley Museum and Library in Wilmington, Delaware. That has often involved adding sugar and fat, which everyone likes. The wonut illustrates another grand old American tradition, too: the layering of mountains of different types of food in a single dish, which goes back at least to the invention of the ice-cream sundae 120 years ago.
因為美國是一個移民國家，因此它擁有許多個人習俗。但是因為大部分食物都是要取悅所有人，民族食譜經常會被改造以滿足不同的人的口味。“你拿來與不同的東西，然后把它變成你熟悉的東西，”特拉華州海格利博物館和威明頓圖書館的羅格·霍洛威茨說。這通常包括加入糖和油脂，這是大部分人都喜愛的。Wonut也說明了另一種極為重要的美國古老習俗：在一道菜中包含了層層疊疊的不同食物，這至少可以追溯到120年前圣代冰淇淋的發明。
Good ideas spread fast, so hybrid hits are soon copied. Crumbs Bake Shop, an ailing and pricey New York-based chain of cupcake shops, was one of several to introduce variations of the cronut. Alas its “crumbnut” failed to save the business, and Crumbs closed its doors on July 7th. As for Mr Hernandez, he is looking to open wonut shops in Chicago, Los Angeles and Phoenix. But he knows that the wonut will not be novel for long, so he is already working on his next creation: a waffle pizza, which perhaps he should call the “piffle”.
好點子傳播的很快，因此混合食品的創意很快就有人山寨了。Crumbs Bake Shop是一家總部在紐約的杯形蛋糕連鎖店，價格昂貴而且正面臨著困難。它是引入多品種牛角甜甜圈的幾家店之一，但可悲的是它的crumbnut未能挽回日漸下滑的生意，并于7月7日關門了。對于赫爾南德斯來說，他準備在芝加哥、洛杉磯和鳳凰城開wonut商店。但是他知道wonut不會新奇很長時間，因此他正在致力于下一個創新：華夫餅披薩，他可能會把這種食品叫做“priffle”。
