A new thing in costume appears—the flaring hoopskirt, for example—and the passers-by are shocked, and the irreverent laugh. Six months later everybody is reconciled; the fashion has established itself; it is admired, now, and no one laughs. Public opinion resented it before, public opinion accepts it now, and is happy in it. Why? Was the resentment reasoned out? Was the acceptance reasoned out? No. The instinct that moves to conformity did the work. It is our nature to conform; it is a force which not many can successfully resist. What is its seat? The inborn requirement of self-approval. We all have to bow to that; there are no exceptions. Even the woman who refuses from first to last to wear the hoopskirt comes under that law and is its slave; she could not wear the skirt and have her own approval; and that she must have, she cannot help herself. But as a rule our self-approval has its source in but one place and not elsewhere—the approval of other people. A person of vast consequences can introduce any kind of novelty in dress and the general world will presently adopt it—moved to do it, in the first place, by the natural instinct to passively yield to that vague something recognized as authority, and in the second place by the human instinct to train with the multitude and have its approval. An empress introduced the hoopskirt, and we know the result. A nobody introduced the bloomer, and we know the result. If Eve should come again, in her ripe renown, and reintroduce her quaint styles—well, we know what would happen. And we should be cruelly embarrassed, at least at first.
一種服裝上的新玩意兒出現(xiàn)了——比方說(shuō),那種花哨的有裙撐的裙子——過(guò)路人驚呆了,發(fā)出了譏笑。六個(gè)月后,每個(gè)人都接受了這樣的裙子,這種流行式樣也就站穩(wěn)了腳跟,現(xiàn)在人人都贊美它,沒(méi)有人敢再取笑它了。以前輿論憎恨它,但如今卻接受了它,并且還樂(lè)在其中。為什么?這種憎恨是經(jīng)過(guò)深思熟慮的嗎?這種接受是經(jīng)過(guò)分析的嗎?沒(méi)有。是人們順從的本能所起的作用罷了。我們天性就愛(ài)順從,它是一種沒(méi)有多少人能成功抵抗的力置。那么它依附在什么之上呢?就是那種人天生的對(duì)自我認(rèn)同的需要。我們都不得不向它俯首稱(chēng)臣,無(wú)一例外。甚至連始終都拒絕穿那種撐傘狀的裙子的女性也受這個(gè)法則的支配,并且成為它的奴隸;她不會(huì)穿這種裙子進(jìn)行自我認(rèn)同;既然她必須自我認(rèn)同,她也身不由己只能這樣做了。但是,通常我們的自我認(rèn)同不是源于其他地方,而只源于一個(gè)地方——就是別人的贊同肯定。一位舉足輕重的人物可以引進(jìn)任何一種新穎的服裝款式,不久之后普通人就會(huì)接受它——趨向于這樣做,一開(kāi)始是受自然本能的驅(qū)使被動(dòng)地屈服于那個(gè)模糊的被認(rèn)為是權(quán)威的某種東西;接著是受人的本能驅(qū)使,同大多數(shù)人一致,并獲得大眾的認(rèn)同。如果是一位女皇推薦這種傘狀裙子,我們知道結(jié)果會(huì)如何。如果一個(gè)無(wú)名小卒引進(jìn)女式燈籠褲,我們知道結(jié)果會(huì)如何。如果夏娃復(fù)活,憑借她的至高名望再次引進(jìn)她的奇特的穿著風(fēng)格——是的,我們也知道會(huì)發(fā)生什么事。我們會(huì)感到相當(dāng)尷尬,至少在一開(kāi)始的時(shí)候。