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Witnessing the Cerrado's wild glory, while also avoiding the afternoon heat, sometimes requires departing with a guide on the national park trails before dawn.
要見證塞拉多的野性之美，但也得避開下午的迫人熱浪，有時(shí)這意味著你需要在黎明前就跟向?qū)ど蠂?guó)家公園的某條小徑。
Moths flit about your headlamp, crystal fragments glint in the dark.
飛蛾在頭燈前亂撲，黑暗中撒著碎水晶般的光點(diǎn)。
There is a crazy amount of noise. Frogs burp, crickets squeak. A cacophony of insects greets first light.
四下里各種響動(dòng)驚人地盛大。蛙類和蟋蟀在兩個(gè)聲部合奏，不知名的昆蟲七嘴八舌地歡迎第一縷晨光。
Some sound like power tools, others like kazoos, and whistles, and buzzers -- a sense of teeming, infinite life.
有的鳴聲像電動(dòng)工具，還有的像卡祖笛、哨子和報(bào)警器，匯成踴躍而無窮盡的生命交響曲。
Everywhere are twisted tree branches, the Cerrado staple, and vines dangling down like loose wires.
到處是扭曲的樹枝--這是塞拉多的主打特色，還有像松弛的電線一樣低垂的藤蔓。
From the undergrowth, ferns stretch their herringbone fronds toward the light.
低處的草木有葉片呈魚骨狀向光打開的蕨類植物。
Brilliant splashes of color pop from the greenery: purple jasmine, red hibiscus.
綠野中點(diǎn)綴著一抹抹明艷的亮色：瓶?jī)夯ǎt木槿。
A candle bush holds up bright yellow blooms, a grand chandelier. A blue morpho butterfly circles, flying stained glass.
翅莢決明舉起明黃色花穗，像華麗的吊燈。大閃蝶打著旋子，是飛行的彩色玻璃窗。
The air is a heavy blanket, and a loamy scent lingers. Termite mounds shaped like witches' hats rise from the soil.
林間空氣如同一條厚重的毯子蓋在身上，沃土的氣味浮動(dòng)縈繞。白蟻丘從土壤里長(zhǎng)出來，形如女巫的尖帽。
A fat lizard lumbers, tongue flitting. Black ants hauling hunks of leaves to their nest look like a procession of tiny windsurfers.
一只胖蜥蜴長(zhǎng)舌吞吐，慢慢地爬過。拖著大片樹葉列隊(duì)回巢的黑蟻像小人國(guó)的帆板運(yùn)動(dòng)員在游行。
A breeze-triggered confetti of white petals tumbles out of a tree. Birds are constant companions -- parakeets, hummingbirds, flycatchers, hawks.
微風(fēng)從某棵樹上吹落飛舞的白色花瓣。鳥兒是從不缺席的陪伴--長(zhǎng)尾小鸚鵡，蜂鳥，霸鹟，鷹。
A toucan bobs beak-heavy through the air as if swimming the breaststroke. A pair of flamboyant macaws, mated for life, rainbow over the treetops.
一只犀鳥端著沉重的喙飛過，動(dòng)作像在空氣里游蛙泳。一對(duì)終生相守的金剛鸚鵡立在枝頭，羽毛艷麗如虹。
The trail steepens up a bouldery slope, and a sound like rolling thunder starts and doesn't stop. It only intensifies, soon drowning out even the bugs.
小徑爬上一道石坡后變得陡峭，有類似滾雷的聲音傳來，隆隆不休而且越來越響，很快蓋過了漫山遍野的蟲鳴。
Then the forest parts at a rocky outcrop on top of a hill, and there it all is:
在山頂突出的巖臺(tái)之外，可以看到森林分成兩邊，
an expansive sweep of untouched Cerrado, not a farm in sight, the green wilderness sliced open by a deep, cliff-walled canyon, the river within hurtling off a stairway of ledges.
再放眼望去就是原汁原味的廣大塞拉多荒野，視野中一座農(nóng)場(chǎng)也沒有，綠野被兩岸壁立如削的深谷切開，谷底的河奔騰沖下層層疊疊的石臺(tái)。
The raging waterfalls, the source of the thunder, kick up clouds of mist; the sheer breadth of the view is dizzying and spectacular, the heart of Brazil still beating strong.
水霧彌漫，形成咆哮的瀑布，這就是剛才所聞雷聲的來源，這景象的盛大幾乎令人暈眩，精彩至極--巴西的心臟仍蓬勃有力地跳動(dòng)著。
But for how long? The director of Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park, a 37-year-old biologist named Nayara Stacheski, says she is fearful.
但這光景還能維持多久呢？沙帕達(dá)-杜斯維阿迪羅斯國(guó)家公園主管、37歲的生物學(xué)家納亞拉·斯塔切斯基感到憂心忡忡。
The Cerrado could pass any salvageable tipping point in less than a decade.
整個(gè)塞拉多地區(qū)可能十年內(nèi)就會(huì)越過某個(gè)進(jìn)入不可逆退化的關(guān)鍵點(diǎn)。
"This could all become a desert," she says, and everyone with a stake in the Cerrado will lose.
“這里的一切都可能變成荒漠。”她說，而與塞拉多有利益關(guān)系的所有人都會(huì)成為輸家。
Many Brazilian scientists who specialize in the Cerrado are in general agreement: It's hard to halt, or even slow, the march of progress and the force of consumerism.
許多以塞拉多為專業(yè)研究對(duì)象的巴西科學(xué)家已有共識(shí)：很難剎停，甚至減緩社會(huì)發(fā)展的腳步和消費(fèi)主義的推力。
"I'm not optimistic," says Guarino Colli, an ecology professor at the University of Brasília who studies the Cerrado's lizards and snakes.
巴西利亞大學(xué)生態(tài)學(xué)教授瓜里諾·科利說：“依我看，不太樂觀。”他研究的是塞拉多的蛇和蜥蜴。
Colli indicates that it's not the celebrated areas like the Amazon rainforest, for which people are willing to donate money and fight to protect, that we should worry about, but rather it is the lesser known, vulnerable lands that could determine our fate.
科利指出，我們需要擔(dān)心的不是像亞馬孫雨林這種高光勝地--因?yàn)槿藗円呀?jīng)很樂意為之捐獻(xiàn)資金和出力保護(hù)了，而是相對(duì)少為人知、生態(tài)脆弱卻可能決定人類命運(yùn)的地域。
How we treat the Cerrado is, by extension, how we will treat much of the world. What's at risk, according to the National Campaign in Defense of the Cerrado, "is the life of every being."
推而廣之，我們對(duì)待塞拉多的方式就是我們?nèi)蘸髮?duì)待世界大部分地區(qū)的方式，用“保衛(wèi)塞拉多全國(guó)行動(dòng)”組織的話說，此間牽涉到“每一個(gè)生物的生命”。
There are no simple solutions. Everyone wants inexpensive commodities; if we don't farm the Cerrado, we will have to farm elsewhere.
并沒有簡(jiǎn)單的解決辦法。人人都想要廉價(jià)商品。如果我們不在塞拉多產(chǎn)糧，就得去其他地方產(chǎn)糧。
Eight billion people need to be fed every day. All nations seek to grow their economy. Nobody is at fault and everybody's at fault at the same time.
80億人每天都需要吃飯，所有國(guó)家都致力于經(jīng)濟(jì)增長(zhǎng)。不是任何人的錯(cuò)，但又每個(gè)人都脫不了干系。
"We all have some responsibility for the devastation of the Cerrado," says Colli.
“我們所有人都對(duì)塞拉多的毀壞負(fù)有某種責(zé)任。”科利說。
Soybean demand is soaring, and the expansion of farmland will almost surely continue. The lure of cheap cheeseburgers is strong.
大豆需求量在飆升，農(nóng)田的擴(kuò)張幾乎必然會(huì)持續(xù)。廉價(jià)芝士牛肉堡的誘惑令人難以抵擋。
The Cerrado, it's possible, will be a place that few will really miss, until it's closed forever and gone.
塞拉多可能會(huì)變成一個(gè)少有人顧惜懷念的地方--直到不復(fù)存在，永遠(yuǎn)塵封。
