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Luciana Santos begs to differ. She was born in the Cerrado and lives there still, with her husband and four young daughters.
盧恰娜·桑托斯對此有不同意見。她出生于普拉托地區并定居至今，家里有丈夫和四個年輕女兒。
Her family is part of a community, a collection of villages known as a quilombo, whose first members escaped slavery some 250 years ago.
她的家庭屬于一個由多處村落結成的“奎隆博”社區--祖先是250年前躲避殖民奴役的原住民。
Here, enfolded into the hills just beyond the boundaries of Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park, the roads remain unpaved, and electricity hasn't yet reached the farthest thatch-roofed homes.
群山環抱中的村子剛好坐落在沙帕達-杜斯維阿迪羅斯國家公園邊界之外，村民仍走著鄉間土路，有些位置最偏僻的茅屋人家至今沒通上電。
Santos is 33 years old; when she was young, she had to walk two hours to get to school each way, though her daughters don't do that -- there's a new school in her village that becomes a community library at night.
桑托斯今年33歲，小時候為了上學要走單程兩小時的山路，不過她的女兒們已不必如此，村里有了一所新學校，不上課的晚間兼做社區圖書館。
Currently, there are 44 separate quilombos in the Cerrado and about 80 different Indigenous ethnicities whose ancestors stretch back to pre-European times.
目前塞拉多地區有44個奎隆博社區和約80個土著民族，遠祖可追溯到歐洲人抵達前的時代。
Some hunt, some farm, some fish, some graze livestock. Everyone sings different songs.
有些村民以狩獵為生，還有的種地、打漁或放牧。各家都有自己的山歌。
An accurate census of the Cerrado is elusive, but about 100,000 people are believed to live traditionally off the land.
塞拉多的準確人口數量無從查考，但據估計，以傳統方式棲居于此的有10萬人。
Several groups do not own the legal deeds to their territory, their future destined to be fraught with lawsuits and land battles.
其中幾個群體沒有取得所占領地的地契，未來難免要為了土地爭端打官司。
The community Santos comes from has embraced tourism. Sharing the Cerrado, they believe, helps save it.
桑托斯所在的社區支持發展旅游業。他們相信與外界分享塞拉多有助于拯救它。
They don't want bulldozers approaching their hills; they have everything to lose. Any visitors willing to take the long drive from Brasília are welcome.
他們不希望推土機迫近家門口的山林，這是攸關生存的大事。任何不畏路途遙遠肯從巴西利亞來此的客人都會受到歡迎。
Santos is one of the guides. Walking the footpaths around her quilombo, she sees through the chaos of shrubs and trees and bushes, indecipherable to most outsiders, and points out ingredients she regularly uses.
桑托斯是村里的游客向導之一。她行走于奎隆博社區周圍的步道，外地人眼里一團亂麻的高矮樹木和灌叢在她看來清清爽爽，她還指出了經常使用的原料。
"These leaves make a lotion for skin care," she says. "Brew a tea with this for muscle ache. This one's good for bug bites."
“這樣的葉子可以做成護膚乳液。這個泡水喝治肌肉痛。被蟲咬了用這個，”她說。
Tiny black frogs dart abruptly across the path. "They do that when it's about to rain," she says, and a few minutes later it does.
細小的黑色蛙類急急跳過路面。“天快下雨的時候它們就會這樣。”她說，幾分鐘后果然下起來了。
Santos gained her knowledge of the natural world from her grandmother and mother -- "and some from men too, but they're harder to learn from" -- and vows that she will pass on everything to her daughters. "I will not allow our culture to die."
桑托斯對自然世界的知識來自祖母和母親，“也有跟男人學來的，不過他們不太愛教。”她發誓會把所有知識傳給女兒們，“可不能讓我們的文化滅亡。”
Prepackaged goods occasionally arrive by truck, but her community, like every quilombo, can grow all its own food.
包裝好的商品偶爾會從外面用卡車運進來，但她的社區和其他“奎隆博”一樣能在口糧方面自給自足。
They did it for a couple of centuries, coaxing the soil to yield rice, beans, pumpkins, cassava. Nothing is sprayed with pesticides.
當地人務農已經幾百年經驗，巧妙地侍弄土壤使其長出稻米、豆子、南瓜和木薯。
You can drink the water right out of the streams. Chickens and cows are raised for meat, rivers provide fish, berries are plentiful.
所有莊稼都不用殺蟲劑，溪澗的水可以直飲。養雞養牛以獲肉食，河里有魚，漿果多得吃不完。
Buriti palm trees offer roofing material and creamy fruits. Mangaba trees produce plumlike, sugary treats.
曲葉矛櫚的葉片可以用來搭屋頂，果實有奶油般的口感。萌甲果甜甜的像李子。
But the local favorite, Santos says, is definitely the pequi -- a fruit native to the Cerrado that's a little complicated and a touch dangerous to eat, as there are needlelike spines inside that must be carefully avoided.
桑托斯說，當地人最喜歡的還是塞拉多原產的巴西油桃木果實，俗名“佩基”，吃起來略為麻煩甚至有點兒危險，因為要小心避開果肉里面尖銳的棘。
The flavor, a trace of bitter lemon and a hint of cheddar cheese, doesn't immediately appeal to everyone, but for those who can adapt to the taste, the pequi often becomes a prized delicacy.
它的味道夾雜了少許苦檸檬和切達奶酪的口味，作為水果不是大眾一吃就會喜歡的類型，但對于吃慣了的食客就是人間美味。
The pequi, Santos implies, is like the Cerrado itself. If you're able to adjust in just the right ways, the prickliness and oddities are not merely tolerated but deeply adored.
桑托斯覺得塞拉多就像這佩基果一樣，如果你能以正確的方式適應它，那么它帶著刺的古怪風味不僅無傷大雅，反而成了令人鐘愛的特質。
"I have never wanted to live anywhere else," she says. One person's wasteland is another's wonder.
“我從沒想過去別的地方生活。”她說。一個人眼里的荒涼絕境是另一個人眼里的樂園。
