評論
打印
Confronting the dangers of ultra-processed food
直面超加工食品的危害
Which is healthier: a bag of crisps or a kale salad?
哪個更健康:一袋薯片還是一份羽衣甘藍沙拉?
That is easy.
這很簡單。
Now which is healthier: a pizza made from scratch or one made from the same basic ingredients, with the same number of calories, pulled out of a box in the freezer?
那么，哪一種披薩更健康：是從頭開始做的披薩，還是從冰箱的盒子里拿出來的，用同樣的基本原料、同樣的卡路里做的披薩?
Many people concerned with what they eat would instinctively say the former, perhaps citing a vague concern with “processed food”.
許多關心自己吃什么的人會本能地說前者健康，也許是出于對“加工食品”的模糊擔憂。
Such food can often be delicious.
這樣的食物往往很美味。
(This columnist has a particular weakness for salty potato crisps.)
(筆者特別喜歡咸薯片。)
And there is much to cheer about calories being cheap and abundant, when for most of human history they were neither.
卡路里既便宜又豐富，這是很值得歡呼的東西，在人類歷史的大部分時間里都很稀缺。
But as Chris van Tulleken’s new book, “Ultra-Processed People”, explains, that cheapness and abundance come at a cost.
但正如克里斯·范·圖勒肯的新書《過度加工者》里面所解釋的那樣，廉價且富足是有代價的。
Mr van Tulleken, a doctor and television presenter, draws a distinction between “ultra-processed food” (upf) and “processed food”.
醫生兼電視節目主持人范·塔肯先生對“超加工食品”(upf)和“加工食品”進行了區分。
Almost everything people consume is processed in some form: rice is harvested and hulled, animals are butchered.
人們消費的幾乎所有東西都經過了某種形式的加工:大米被收獲并去殼，動物被屠宰。
He uses a definition proposed by Carlos Monteiro, a food scientist, describing upf as “formulations of ingredients, mostly of exclusive industrial use, made by a series of industrial processes, many requiring sophisticated equipment and technology”.
他使用了食品科學家卡洛斯·蒙泰羅提出的定義，將超加工食品描述為“原料的配方，主要用于專用工業用途，通過一系列工業過程制成，其中許多過程需要復雜的設備和技術”。
A pizza made from scratch contains minimally processed food (wheat turned into flour, tomatoes into sauce, milk into cheese).
從頭開始制作的披薩含有最低限度的加工食品(小麥制成的面粉，西紅柿制成的醬汁，牛奶制成的奶酪)。
The one in the freezer, with its thiamine mononitrate and sodium phosphate, is upf.
冰箱里的那個，含有單硝酸硫胺素和磷酸鈉，已經過期了。
