評(píng)論
打印
Europe
歐洲版塊
Global warming and food
全球變暖與食物
Hot cuisine
“熱菜”
How will climate change affect gastronomy?
氣候變化將如何影響美食？
Farmers in southern Italy are cultivating avocados and mangos.
意大利南部的農(nóng)民正在種植牛油果和芒果。
Tropical creatures such as the rabbitfish are turning up in Mediterranean nets.
像兔魚(yú)這樣的熱帶生物正出現(xiàn)在地中海的漁網(wǎng)中。
And Bordeaux winemakers fret that their Merlot grapes may become extinct.
波爾多釀酒商擔(dān)心他們的梅洛葡萄可能會(huì)滅絕。
Fifty years ago all this would have been unthinkable.
50年前，這一切都是不可想象的。
But since the early 1980s rising temperatures have forced some farmers to swap grapes for passion fruit.
但自20世紀(jì)80年代初以來(lái)，不斷上升的氣溫迫使一些農(nóng)民將葡萄換成了百香果。
Italy and France have long been proud of their cuisines.
意大利和法國(guó)長(zhǎng)期以來(lái)一直以美食為榮。
Both countries jealously guard the rules that say only ham made in Parma can be called “Prosciutto di Parma”, and only fizzy wine made in Champagne can be called champagne.
這兩個(gè)國(guó)家都小心翼翼地捍衛(wèi)著這樣的原則，只有帕爾馬產(chǎn)的火腿才能被稱(chēng)為“帕爾馬火腿”，只有產(chǎn)自香檳-阿登大區(qū)的起泡葡萄酒才能被稱(chēng)為香檳。
Roquefort, that most celebrated of blue cheeses, was given special protection by the parliament of Toulouse in 1550.
1550年，最著名的藍(lán)色奶酪洛克福受到圖盧茲議會(huì)的特別保護(hù)。
The fact of having been grown somewhere famous has traditionally been seen as a guarantee of quality.
在有名的地方種植一直被視為質(zhì)量的保證。
But climate change could upset that.
但氣候變化可能會(huì)打破這一點(diǎn)。
Take polenta, a popular Italian dish consisting almost entirely of ground maize.
以玉米粥為例，這是一道很受歡迎的意大利菜，幾乎全部由磨碎的玉米粉制成。
High temperatures and drier weather have already reduced maize yields in southern Italy.
高溫和更干燥的天氣已經(jīng)降低了意大利南部的玉米產(chǎn)量。
If this pattern continues and spreads northwards, will Italian polenta-makers have to order their maize from elsewhere?
如果這種模式繼續(xù)向北蔓延，是不是意大利玉米粥制造商就不得不從其他地方訂購(gòu)玉米呢？
And what about durum wheat, which grows abundantly in Mediterranean lands and is used to make pasta, flatbreads and couscous?
那么盛產(chǎn)于地中海地區(qū)，被用來(lái)制作意大利面、扁面包和粗麥粉的硬質(zhì)小麥呢？
Modelling suggests that durum yields will sharply fall there if the temperature keeps on rising.
氣候模型顯示，如果氣溫持續(xù)上升，那里的硬質(zhì)小麥產(chǎn)量將大幅下降。
So should gourmands worry about the future of spaghetti?
那么，美食家們應(yīng)該擔(dān)心意大利面的未來(lái)嗎？
Gabriele Cola, a researcher at Milan University, is optimistic about the short term.
米蘭大學(xué)研究員加布里埃爾·科拉對(duì)短期前景仍持樂(lè)觀態(tài)度。
“I don’t see crops at serious risk, because farming is more informed and technologically capable, so it can always respond to changes,” he says.
他說(shuō)：“我認(rèn)為農(nóng)作物不會(huì)面臨嚴(yán)重的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)，因?yàn)檗r(nóng)場(chǎng)經(jīng)營(yíng)主更有見(jiàn)識(shí)，技術(shù)能力過(guò)硬，可以應(yīng)對(duì)各種氣候變化。”
Increased irrigation can counter the effects of drought.
增加灌溉可以抵消干旱的影響。
Scientists may also breed more resistant varieties of crops.
科學(xué)家還可能培育出更具抗性的作物品種。
But in the long run deeper change seems likely.
但從長(zhǎng)遠(yuǎn)來(lái)看，更深層次的變化似乎是有可能發(fā)生的。
If temperatures rise unabated, farmers in northern Europe may find they can grow southern staples; polenta may invade Germany.
如果氣溫持續(xù)上升，北歐的農(nóng)民可能會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)他們可以種植南部的主食；玉米粥可能會(huì)入侵德國(guó)。
And southern locavores may have to adapt.
而南方的本地人不得不適應(yīng)這一情況。
If tropical fruit continues to thrive in Sicily, could ham and pineapple pizza one day be considered authentically Italian?
如果熱帶水果繼續(xù)在西西里島茁壯成長(zhǎng)，火腿菠蘿披薩會(huì)有一天被認(rèn)為是正宗的意大利菜嗎？
