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I’m nonetheless considered red meat by nutritionists and the USDA —and always have been.
盡管如此，營(yíng)養(yǎng)學(xué)家和美國(guó)農(nóng)業(yè)部仍然認(rèn)定我是紅肉——而且一直都是。
Here’s the truth: Sometimes I’m healthful; sometimes I’m not.
事實(shí)是：有時(shí)候我很健康；有時(shí)我不健康。
The Other White Meat campaign focused on my loin and tenderloin,
另類白肉運(yùn)動(dòng)的重點(diǎn)是腰肉和里脊肉，
those swaths of flesh along my spine that are quite low in fat and good sources of protein and minerals.
我脊椎上的那些肉脂肪含量很低，蛋白質(zhì)和礦物質(zhì)很豐富。
But other parts of me, not so much. You’ll find the fattiest slabs of fat on my belly, back (right on top of those lean loins), and jowls.
我身上其他地方的肉就不那么豐富了。你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)我的肚子上、后背上(就在我瘦削的腰上面)和下巴上都是肥肉。
Falling in between, fat-wise, are my shoulders and legs.
脂肪含量處于中間的，就是肩上和腿上的肉。
Think of them as my dark meat, with fat interspersed with muscle as well as lots of connective tissue.
把它們看作是我的黑肉，脂肪和肌肉交織在一起，還有大量的結(jié)締組織。
That tissue—actually collagen that forms when a muscle is well exercised—may start off tough when it’s raw or briefly cooked.
那些組織-實(shí)際上是肌肉經(jīng)過(guò)充分鍛煉時(shí)形成的膠原質(zhì)-在未加工或者簡(jiǎn)短烹飪時(shí)可能會(huì)很堅(jiān)硬。
But roast a pork shoulder for eight hours, and that muscly tissue will melt into succulent gelatin
但是豬肩肉烤8小時(shí)后，肌肉組織就會(huì)融化成多汁的明膠，
to produce a fall-off-the-bone pork juiciness that makes you humans fall off your chairs.
產(chǎn)生一種讓你從椅子上掉下來(lái)的脫骨豬肉汁。
One thing everyone knows about me is that I am an insatiable omnivore,
大家都知道我是一個(gè)貪得無(wú)厭的雜食者，
which means that those who raise me have the power to vary how fatty I am and how I taste simply by feeding me differently.
這意味著那些養(yǎng)育我的人可以僅僅通過(guò)不同的喂養(yǎng)方式，就能改變我的脂肪含量，改變我的口味。
Take the pata negra pigs in Spain and Portugal that spend their lives grazing on acorns.
以西班牙和葡萄牙的黑腳豬為例，它們一生都在吃橡子。
Their famous funky, translucent-pink jamon iberico (Iberian ham) is so rich in healthy monounsaturated fats—up to 55 percent,
他們著名的時(shí)髦的半透明的伊比利亞火腿富含高達(dá)55%的健康的單一不飽和脂肪，
a higher ratio than in any other meat—that farmers call their hogs “four-legged olive trees.”
這一比例比任何其他肉類都高，農(nóng)民們稱他們的豬為“四條腿的橄欖樹”。
Such a privileged lifestyle and meals don’t come cheap.
這種特級(jí)的生活方式和食物可不便宜。
These days, a 15-pound bone-in ham from the elite Spanish brand Cinco Jotas will stop your heart at $1,200—or $80 a pound.
這些天，一個(gè)15磅的西班牙辛科霍塔斯牌精品帶骨火腿價(jià)格是嚇人的1200磅，即80美元一磅。
Meanwhile, a conventionally farmed American pig fattened on run-of-the-mill grains and meal made from meat and bone
同時(shí)，一種以傳統(tǒng)方式飼養(yǎng)的美國(guó)豬，以普通的谷物和由肉和骨頭制成的粉喂養(yǎng)的豬，
produces pork that’s higher in saturated fat but costs a mere $4 per pound.
生產(chǎn)出的豬肉飽和脂肪含量更高，但每磅僅4美元。
There are few easier weeknight meals than a pork chop roasted in a cast-iron pan.
在工作日夜晚做飯，沒(méi)有什么比在鑄鐵鍋里烤豬排更容易的了。
But boy, do you Americans overcook me. Chops, lacking in fat as they are, dry out when they get too hot.
但是伙計(jì)，你們美國(guó)人是不是把我烤過(guò)頭了。排骨缺乏脂肪，當(dāng)它們太熱時(shí)就會(huì)變干。
For decades, the USDA made it worse by recommending an internal temperature of 165°F for pork, which delivers a very dry puck indeed.
幾十年來(lái)，美國(guó)農(nóng)業(yè)部讓情況變得更糟，他們建議豬肉的烹飪溫度為165華氏度，這讓豬肉變得非常干。
In recent years, they dropped it to 145°F, which is medium-well and a real improvement:
近年來(lái)，他們將溫度降到了145華氏度，這會(huì)烹飪出七至八分熟的豬肉，是很大的改善：
juicy and just having lost its pink. Sink your teeth in and enjoy the magic.
多汁，剛剛失去了粉紅色。盡情享受這神奇的時(shí)刻吧。
