影片內(nèi)容提要：轉(zhuǎn)化的靈感，講述了平淡無(wú)奇的五谷雜糧經(jīng)鹵素、酒曲、酵母等催化劑糅合后轉(zhuǎn)化成各種美食的經(jīng)歷。腐乳、豆豉、黃酒、泡菜,都有一個(gè)共同點(diǎn),它們都具有一種芳香濃郁的特殊風(fēng)味。這種味道是人與微生物攜手貢獻(xiàn)的獨(dú)特風(fēng)味。

一、美食中英對(duì)照

大煮干絲：raised shredded chicken with ham and dried tofu

豆腐腦：tofu curd

香炸奶豆腐：fried dried milk cake

蒙古奶茶：Mongolia milky tea

炸乳扇：fried dairy fan

烤羊排：baked lamp chop

紅燒毛豆腐：stinky tofu braised in soy sauce

酸菜白肉：pickled Chinese cabbage with plain boiled pork

酸菜餃子：dumpling of pickled Chinese cabbage

二、中英文臺(tái)本

第三集《轉(zhuǎn)化的靈感》

Episode 3 Inspiration for Transformation

在吃的法則里，風(fēng)味重于一切。中國(guó)人從來(lái)沒(méi)有把自己束縛在一張乏味的食品清單上。人們懷著對(duì)食物的理解，在不斷的嘗試中尋求著轉(zhuǎn)化的靈感。

Taste is more important than anyting else as far as food is concerned. The Chinese have never restricted themselves to a certain tedious food list. With their understanding of food, the Chinese are always looking for an inspiration for change.

天一放晴，姚貴文就把竹匾搬到天臺(tái)上。這些豆腐球是他和妻子幾天的勞動(dòng)成果。有些豆腐已經(jīng)略顯微黃，但這種程度的改變遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)不夠，姚貴文還要再耐心等待幾天。干癟堅(jiān)硬以及黑褐色的表皮才是成熟的標(biāo)志，這種變化來(lái)自于自然發(fā)酵。

Once the clouds clear up, Yao Guiwen moves the split-bamboo baskets to the terrace. He and his wife have spent days making the tofu balls. Some tofu has already turned yellowish. But that's far from enough. Yao has to wait several days more. When it gets hard and shriveled and the skin turns black, then the tofu has matured. The change is because of fermentation.

王翠華把不成形的嫩豆腐緊緊包裹起來(lái)，擠壓出水分后，豆腐才會(huì)成形。如果不抓緊時(shí)間，新鮮的豆腐很快就會(huì)變餿，這意味著她必須包得飛快，并且沒(méi)有時(shí)間休息。

Wang Cuihua tightly wraps the shapeless tender tofu with gauze and squeezes out the water. Then the tofu takes shape. There is no time to lose. The fresh tofu will quickly turn sour. It means Wang has to work very quickly without rest.

一盆燒得恰到好處的炭火，是姚貴文下午工作的關(guān)鍵。

A basin of charcoal fire of proper heat will be the key to Yao's work in the afternoon.

位于云南紅河地區(qū)的建水古城，古稱臨安。在1200年間，一度是中國(guó)西南的重鎮(zhèn)。如今，時(shí)間已經(jīng)讓炫目的榮耀褪色。和云南的許多小城一樣，建水是一個(gè)多民族的聚居地，各種文化的摻雜形成了特有的氛圍和格局。

Jianshui in Honghe Prefecture of Yunnan Province was named Lin'an in ancient times. It was once an important city in southwest China during the past 1200 years. Its brilliance has gradually faded with the passage of time. Just like many other towns in Yunnan, Jianshui is a multi-ethnic settlement. Different cultures have merged here, conjuring a unique atmosphere.

炭火的熱力，讓堅(jiān)硬的豆腐迅速膨脹，這很容易讓人聯(lián)想到發(fā)酵的面團(tuán)。建水人很會(huì)享用這種由風(fēng)干和發(fā)酵打造出的特殊味道。蘸豆腐的調(diào)料各有不同，但是對(duì)姚貴文來(lái)說(shuō)，豆腐本身的質(zhì)地才是最重要的。

The tough tofu quickly inflates in the heat of charcoal fire. It reminds people of fermented flour. People of Jianshui like enjoying this special air-dried and fermented flavor. People can enjoy the tofu with varied sauces. But for Yao, the texture of tofu is the most important.

河谷地區(qū)的溫暖很容易讓豆腐發(fā)酵，而適度的干燥又讓它們不至于腐敗。對(duì)于風(fēng)、水、陽(yáng)光和豆腐之間的微妙關(guān)系，姚貴文比任何人都要敏感。

Tofu easily ferments in the warm weather of the river valley area. And the mildly dry air prevents it from rotting. Yao is more sensitive than anyone else to the subtle relations between wind, water, sunshine and tofu.

這里是建水最著名的大板井。在水井旁，女人們單靠手指的合作，就構(gòu)建起一條豆腐的流水線。

This is the famous Daban Well of Jianshui. Beside the well, women set up a production line of tofu by just using their fingers.

做豆腐的各個(gè)環(huán)節(jié)都和水密不可分。擁有128口水井的建水人很懂得水。中國(guó)人相信，水能滋養(yǎng)人的靈性和覺(jué)悟。這一點(diǎn)，就仿佛水對(duì)豆腐的塑造。兩者間有一種不可言喻的共通。

Water is a necessity in every procedure of making tofu. With a total of 128 wells in Jianshui, local residents are well versed with water. The Chinese believe water nourishes the spirit and mind up people. Just like water to tofu, the common points speak for themselves.

在距離建水不到40公里的古城石屏，這里的豆腐在氣質(zhì)上卻大為不同。成形的豆腐體積大得驚人，難得的是它們極富韌性，幾乎不會(huì)破損，少許的鹽就可以最大程度地保鮮。

The ancient town of Shiping is less than 40km from Jianshui. Tofu here has a completely different look. The finished product is shockingly big. But it's unusually tenacious. And it almost doesn't crumble. A dash of salt can best preserve the tofu's freshness.

中國(guó)的云南，歷來(lái)不是大豆的主要產(chǎn)區(qū)，可卻不妨礙這里擁有悠久的豆腐歷史。吃一顆豆腐，投一粒玉米，用這種方法記數(shù)，買(mǎi)賣(mài)雙方十分默契。

Yunnan has never been a major soybean production area, but it has a long history of making tofu. One corn for one piece of tofu. There is a tacit agreement between the buyer and the seller.

30年來(lái)，姚貴文的豆腐攤上很少冷清過(guò)。從豆腐攤回家要走30分鐘，幾乎橫穿老城。發(fā)展的速度飛快，這改變了建水的很多事情。在漫長(zhǎng)的時(shí)間里，一些變量消失了，一些變量被修改，還有新的變量加入進(jìn)來(lái)。總有一些經(jīng)得起時(shí)間的磨礪，保留了下來(lái)。

For the past 3 decades, Yao's tofu stall has never been quiet. It takes half an hour to walk from the stall to home and Yao has to go across almost the entire town. The rapid development has changed many aspects of Jianshui. As time goes by, some variables have disappeared and others, altered. And new ones are added. But there are some that stand the tests of time and remain.

姚貴文和王翠華圍繞著豆腐的生活清淡辛苦。丈夫最大的愿望是能去遠(yuǎn)方的大湖釣魚(yú)，雖然他從來(lái)沒(méi)有釣過(guò)魚(yú)。在這對(duì)夫婦眼里，每一顆豆腐都很珍貴，它們能夠幫助自己供養(yǎng)子女，過(guò)上幸福安穩(wěn)的生活。

The Yao's life centered on tofu is watery and hard. The biggest wish of the husband is to fish in the big lake far away. He has no merits but only shorcomings. To the couple, every piece of tofu is precious. It help them to support their children and sustain a happy family life.

在1000多年里，伴隨著北方民族的數(shù)次遷入，豆腐代表的中原飲食文化已經(jīng)深植于西南邊陲的這片富饒之地，并且演繹出自己獨(dú)特的氣質(zhì)。這些一脈相承的制作細(xì)節(jié)，讓人聯(lián)想到幾千公里外的中原腹地。在那里，中國(guó)的豆腐從誕生到興盛，一路走過(guò)2000年。

In the past over 1,000 years, with rounds of northern immigration, tofu, the representative of central China's food culture, has taken roots in the abundant land on the south-west border. And it has developed its unique disposition. The production details remind us of the hinterland of central China that is thousands of miles away. There, from birth to prosperity, tofu has enjoyed a history of 2,000 years.

胡學(xué)兵正趕往縣城，他要在早市上賣(mài)掉今天的豆腐。

Hu Xuebing is on his way to the county town. He needs to sell his tofu at the morning market.

壽縣是安徽省北部的一座古老的小縣城，這里的人們對(duì)豆腐的情感非同一般。他們堅(jiān)信，自己的祖先就是偉大的豆腐發(fā)明者。10月中旬，皖北地區(qū)的黃豆早已收獲歸倉(cāng)，用新黃豆磨制的豆腐向來(lái)最受歡迎。在中國(guó)幾千年的農(nóng)耕史中，大豆一直占據(jù)著重要的地位置。在已知的豆科食物中，大豆是蛋白質(zhì)最豐富也是最廉價(jià)的食物來(lái)源，可它早期的境遇一度尷尬。煮熟的大豆無(wú)法引起人們的食欲，并且使腸胃大量脹氣，迫切的需要就是尋找到進(jìn)食大豆的最佳方式。

Shouxian County is an old little town in the north Anhui province, people there has a special attachment to tofu. They believe their ancestors invented the great tofu. In middle October, soybeans in north Anhui have already been ripped and stored tofu made with newly harvested soybeans has always been the most popular in China's thousands years old history of agriculture. Soybean has long occupied an important position among the well-known legumes. Soybean is the richest in protein. So for the cheapest sustenance, but it was once in an awkward position. Cooked soybeans failed to wet people's appetite and to make matter's worse caused flatulence people urgently need to find the best way to consume soybeans.

秤盤(pán)里的白色粉末是石膏，它是把豆?jié){點(diǎn)化成豆腐的關(guān)鍵。胡學(xué)兵對(duì)于石膏的純熟運(yùn)用和他的祖先如出一轍。在煮沸的豆?jié){中，變性的蛋白質(zhì)和石膏相遇后迅速發(fā)生膠凝作用，這種變化如此巨大，以至于在瞬間就可以覺(jué)察到。

The white power on scale is gypsum, the key to turn soy milk into tofu. Hu Xuebing can use gypsum as skillfully as his ancestors.When the denatured protein meets the gypsum, the boiling soymilk quickly coagulates. The change is so drastic that it can be see in a blink of eye in ancient days.

遙遠(yuǎn)的年代里，石膏常常出現(xiàn)在中國(guó)術(shù)士們的秘籍之中，而它和豆腐的淵源據(jù)說(shuō)也恰恰與此相關(guān)。很多人相信，2000多年前，正是熱衷煉丹的淮南王劉安，在八公山中用豆?jié){培育丹苗時(shí)碰巧加入了石膏，于是無(wú)意間促成了豆腐的誕生。不管事實(shí)是不是真的那么富有戲劇性，中國(guó)人必定經(jīng)歷了漫長(zhǎng)的摸索，才讓豆腐最終成為了一種了不起的中國(guó)食物。無(wú)論如何，豆腐的誕生徹底改變了大豆的命運(yùn)。

Gypsum often appeared in secret scriptures of Chinese war locks. It is said that was how the relation between gypsum and tofu originated started.Over 2000 years ago, Liu An, the king of Huanan was addicted to alchemy when nurturing a mortal pill in soymilk. He happened to add some gypsum in it. Many people believe that's how tofu was invented, regardless of whether the reality was as dramatic as the story. Chinese must be coping for a long time before finally making tofu a great food of china. The invention of tofu however completely changes the fate of soybeans.

豆腐無(wú)限包容的個(gè)性，給擅長(zhǎng)烹飪的中國(guó)人創(chuàng)造了極大的想象空間。那些原本讓大豆尷尬的不利因素----胰蛋白酶抑制劑、不能被吸收的糖以及植酸，在中國(guó)人古老的轉(zhuǎn)化手段中，都被自覺(jué)或不自覺(jué)地消除了。豆腐的出現(xiàn)，讓人體對(duì)大豆蛋白的吸收和利用達(dá)到了一種高峰。中國(guó)廚師對(duì)豆腐的理解往往會(huì)讓人大吃一驚。或許可以說(shuō)，中國(guó)人用豆腐表達(dá)了自己柔軟變通的適應(yīng)性。所有的這些，讓一粒黃豆得到了升華。這些乳白色的漿液令人浮想聯(lián)翩。

[en]The great flexibility tofu offers a huge space for the imagination of the Chinese well-known for color its skill. The disadvantages of soybeans were eliminated by reason or unconsciously. As the ancient Chinese transform soybeans into tofu, the value of soybeans protein to human body reach the climax for the invention of tofu. Chinese cooks' understanding of tofu will often take you by surprise. May be it is also correct to say that the Chinese are showing their adaptability through tofu, and thus, soybean has been sublimated.The milky juice arouses many thoughts in our mind.

在中國(guó)北方的遼闊草原上，蒙古族的牧民也被另一種流淌的美味滋養(yǎng)著。9月下旬，烏珠穆沁草原已經(jīng)褪去了綠色。孟克和家人抓緊時(shí)間，趕在嚴(yán)冬之前進(jìn)行最后的出場(chǎng)放牧。草原的深秋充滿寒意。干燥的牛糞可以讓爐火燒得更旺一些。

On the vast grassland of north China,the Mongolian nomads are nourished by another flowing delicacy. In late September, the green cover is fading on Uzemchin grassland. Mengke and his family are seizing the last days of grazing before the bitter winter arrives. The chill is felt in the late autumn of grassland; dried cow manure can make the fire burn up.

奶茶是早餐中永遠(yuǎn)的主角。磚茶、黃油、炒米以及鮮奶是一鍋奶茶的重要內(nèi)容。奶豆腐是幾天前做的。草原上的人離不開(kāi)奶茶和奶豆腐，無(wú)法靠蔬菜和水果來(lái)補(bǔ)充的維生素和礦物質(zhì)，都可以從這里獲得。

Milk tea is always a must for breakfast. Brick tea, butter, stir-fired millet and fresh milk are the important ingredients for making milk tea. Milk curd was made several days ago. Milk tea and curd are indispensable for people living on the grassland. They provide vitamins and minerals that can't be gained from vegetables and fruits.

草原有著神奇的化繁為簡(jiǎn)的能力。“木犢”是孟克的牛，正處在哺乳期。媽媽要想順利從母牛那里獲得鮮奶，得先過(guò)小牛這一關(guān)。鮮奶已經(jīng)不像天氣暖和時(shí)那樣容易發(fā)酵了。媽媽要抓緊時(shí)間趕制酸奶豆腐，作為漫長(zhǎng)冬天的儲(chǔ)備。表皮的酸奶油先被小心地舀出來(lái)，這是很珍貴的部分。發(fā)酵的牛奶結(jié)成塊狀的凝乳，蛋白和乳清在火力下分離開(kāi)。乳清不會(huì)被浪費(fèi)，它們最適合喂牲畜。需要不停地?cái)噭?dòng)，這樣奶團(tuán)才不會(huì)粘到鍋底。最后的乳清被徹底耗干時(shí)，奶團(tuán)被趁熱盛進(jìn)模具中。孟克把新鮮的奶豆腐最先遞到爺爺面前，那是最好的美食。

Grassland has the magical power to make tings simple. Mudu the cattle of Mengke, is in the lactation period, to get fresh milk from the cow, Mengke's mother, has to get permission from the cow. Fresh milk no longer ferments as easily as during the warm days. The mother must hurry to make the milk curd as food reserve for the long winter. The sour cream on the surface is carefully ladled out and the cream is very precious. Fermented milk curdles protein and whey is separated when heated. The whey, though, won't be wasted as it best for feeding livestock. You have to keep stirring the juice, so that the curdled milk won't stick to the pot. When the whey is fully separated, the hot curdled milk is put into moulds. Mengke offers the fresh milk curd to his grandfather. It’s the best delicacy.

一直向南，幾千公里外的云南，幾乎是同樣的情形。粗重的木筷被靈活地使用。一個(gè)光滑的牛奶團(tuán)子很快就被揉了出來(lái)。三兩下后奶團(tuán)子被拉扯成片，卷上墻邊的竹架。

Heading straight south, an almost identical scene is happening in Yunnan thousands of miles away. Thick and heavy chopsticks are moved vigorously. A smooth curdled "milk lump" has soon be rolled after several moves; the lump is dragged into a sheet which is then rolled up onto the bamboo rack by the wall.

在遠(yuǎn)離北方草原的云南大理，白族人家用相似的手法來(lái)轉(zhuǎn)化這里的牛奶。乳扇被晾到場(chǎng)院里風(fēng)干，像是掛起了巨大的風(fēng)鈴。

In far away Dali, Yunnan, a similarly method is adopted by the Bai minority to transfer milk Rushan, made from milk are hung and air dried in the yard just like giant wind chimes.

在800年前，忽必烈時(shí)期的蒙古人遠(yuǎn)征到云南。定居至此的蒙古人也帶來(lái)了遙遠(yuǎn)家鄉(xiāng)的奶食味道。他們不會(huì)想到，這種轉(zhuǎn)化的手法一直被流傳下來(lái)，生機(jī)勃勃。

Over 800 years ago, during the reign of Kublai Khan, the expeditionary Mongolians arrived and settled in Yunnan. They brought dairy products from their home. Unexpectedly, the way to transform milk has been passed down and still prosperous even today.

媽媽從木盒里取出已經(jīng)結(jié)實(shí)的奶豆腐。風(fēng)干的奶豆腐可以保存很久。肉并不經(jīng)常吃，因?yàn)樯筇珜氋F了。各種奶食幾乎成為草原上的主食。

Mother takes the hardened milk curd out of the wooden box. Dried milk curd can be preserved for an extremely long time. Meat is a luxury as livestock is so precious. Dairy products have almost become the main food on the grassland.

這是位于北京市區(qū)的一座大型的蒙古餐廳。美味的烤羊背成為食客們的首選，它很容易讓人聯(lián)想到遠(yuǎn)方草原上那種粗獷的生活方式。但是對(duì)于那些身處草原腹地的人們來(lái)說(shuō)，這些奶食才更貼近他們?cè)镜纳睢?/p>

This is a Mongolian restaurant in downtown Beijing. The mouth-watering roast lamb back is the top choice for dinners here. It easily reminds us of the food lifestyle on the grassland, but to people living in the depth of the grassland, milk products are more close to their real life.

雨讓氣溫降到了冰點(diǎn)。二姐在灌木里發(fā)現(xiàn)了走失的羊羔。這些牛羊是家里的財(cái)產(chǎn)，也是牧人生命的一部分。

Rain brings the temperatures down to freezing. Mengke's second elder sister has found the lost lamb in the bush. Lamb tock are family assets and part of the nomads' life.

孟克換上了過(guò)冬的新袍子。熱茶和奶豆腐讓孟克并不覺(jué)得冷。這些奶食將持續(xù)不斷地提供熱量，足夠支持他一上午的放牧。望遠(yuǎn)鏡是爺爺當(dāng)年的戰(zhàn)利品。孟克三歲時(shí)失去父親，從小跟著爺爺學(xué)習(xí)放牧。爺爺告訴孟克，能做好一個(gè)牧民就很好了。手持套馬桿，縱身躍上馬背，孟克覺(jué)得自己充滿力量。

Mengke has changed into his new winter robe. Hot tea and milk curd keep him warm, and the milk products will continually provide calories to sustain the entirely morning's herding. The telescope is the legacy of his grandfather's. Mengke lost his father at the age of three. He learned to herd with his grandfather. His grandfather has told him that it's good enough to be a qualified herdsman. Host poling in hands, Mengke threw himself on the horse, feeling full of strength.

草原之外的地區(qū)，游牧被農(nóng)耕取代，人們沒(méi)有條件大規(guī)模地放牧牛羊，有限的土地首先被用來(lái)耕種，乳制品最終沒(méi)能在中原的廚房站得一席之地。農(nóng)耕文明中的人們轉(zhuǎn)而將目光投向另外一種植物資源，去獲取寶貴的蛋白質(zhì)，另辟蹊徑地在植物范疇尋找到了蛋白質(zhì)的支持。這對(duì)歷史上缺乏肉食的中國(guó)人來(lái)說(shuō)，即是智慧也是一種幸運(yùn)。

Out the grassland, herding is substituted by farming. Without the conditions for grazing cattle and sheep, people choose to cultivate the limited land. Dairy products have failed to hold this position in kitchens of central China. People living in farming culture have shifted their eyes to other plant resources to obtain precious protein. It was revolutionary for the Chinese to gain protein from plants. To the Chinese who historically had insufficient meat supply, the discovery is wisdom as well as luck.

在浙江天臺(tái)山的古老寺廟中，僧人們正準(zhǔn)備開(kāi)始他們一天中重要的一餐，修行者的食譜是全素的。修行的生活很清苦，即便是進(jìn)餐，也是一種功課。事實(shí)上只有中國(guó)的漢地佛教，才真正將食素作為一種戒律來(lái)遵守。這深刻影響了一千多年間中國(guó)人的素食傳統(tǒng)。

In the ancient temple of Mount Tiantai, the monks are preparing the most important meal of a day. Monk has vegetarian diet. The monastic life is poor and simple, even dinning is a practice of Buddhism. In fact, only Han Buddhism in China includes vegetarian diet as its religious disciplines. That has deeply impact to traditional vegetarianism in China over the past 1000 years.

來(lái)源于植物的豆腐，既符合嚴(yán)苛的心理戒律，同時(shí)又能在營(yíng)養(yǎng)上給予身體最大的支持。在蛋白質(zhì)的提供上，大豆食品是惟一能夠媲美肉類的植物性食材。對(duì)于素食者來(lái)說(shuō)，這相當(dāng)完美。

Originating from plants, tofu can follow the strict disciplines, and it provides the best possible nutrition for the body. Soybean is the only plant food that matches meat for protein quality. So to vegetarians, it's perfect despite its plainness.

中國(guó)的豆腐在“清寡”中暗含了某種精神層面的氣質(zhì)。古人稱贊豆腐有“和德”。吃豆腐的人能安于清貧，而做豆腐的人也懂得“順其自然”。

Chinese tofu is given a certain spiritual quality. The ancient people praised it saying tofu has merits. Those who have tofu are contained within simple life, and those who make tofu understand as to let life take its course.

安徽南部，獨(dú)特的地理環(huán)境和溫潤(rùn)的氣候促成了人們恬淡保守的氣質(zhì)，也孕育出了特有的食物。這些附著白色菌絲的奇特食物，它們的實(shí)質(zhì)是豆腐。還沒(méi)到能夠大量生產(chǎn)的季節(jié)，方興玉家的毛豆腐奇貨可居，在中午之前就會(huì)告罄。

The unique geological environment and mild weather in southern Anhui have form calm and conserved qualities in its people, though so produced unique food. The strange food covered with white hypha is actually tofu. As the season for mass production has not yet arrive, the hairy tofu in Fang Xingyu's shop is a rare commodity worth holding. It will be sold out before noon.

豆腐上濃密的絨毛帶給人們豐富的聯(lián)想，比如說(shuō)動(dòng)物。這里的確有生命。白色的細(xì)絲是毛霉菌的菌絲，是它們賦予豆腐新的活力。很難想象這種食物是如何誕生的。

The heavy hair covering tofu launches our imagination. We link it , for example, to animal, and there is indeed a life in it. The white thin hair is the hypha of mucor, which gives tofu a new vitality. It’s hard to believe how this food is actually made.

如今，方興玉把豆腐坊的大部分工作交給了大女兒。作為家中的長(zhǎng)女，媽媽把她和豆腐坊的未來(lái)聯(lián)系在一起。

Today, Fang Xingyu has handed over most of the workshop to her elder daughter. Fang has begun to associate her future of the shop with her.

豆?jié){的表皮漸漸凝結(jié)，這是大豆富含油脂的表現(xiàn)。但是對(duì)于制作毛豆腐來(lái)講，油脂是多余的。

The surface of soybean milk gradually coagulates, which shows the soybean is rich in oil, but to produce hairy tofu, oil is not required.

油豆皮被晾曬在竹筷上，風(fēng)干后成為毛豆腐的副產(chǎn)品，它們是另一種質(zhì)感的美食。制作毛豆腐的關(guān)鍵在于用自制的發(fā)酵“酸水”來(lái)點(diǎn)鹵。酸性物質(zhì)可以同樣讓大豆蛋白凝固，但是“酸水”更大的意義在于伴隨著點(diǎn)鹵的過(guò)程，其中的微生物們也隨之流入，像種子一樣被埋植進(jìn)豆腐當(dāng)中。

Tofu skin is hung on the chopstick when air dried and become a by-product of hairy tofu. In other delicacy with a totally different texture, the key to produce hairy tofu is to add self-made "sour juice" into soymilk for fermentation. The sour substance can make soy protein clot. What's more important is that microorganisms flow into the milk with the pouring of sour juice. It's just like burying seeds into tofu.

在中國(guó)的任何地方，做豆腐都是極其辛苦的工作。餐桌上，一家人陸續(xù)進(jìn)入和離開(kāi)，最后回來(lái)的是姐姐。妹妹要陪姐姐吃完已經(jīng)冷了的一餐。對(duì)于媽媽和姐姐來(lái)說(shuō)，生活的很多部分已經(jīng)和豆腐坊牢牢長(zhǎng)在了一起。

No matter wherever you are in China making tofu is an extremely hard work. Family members sit down and out and leave the dinning table in succession. The elder sister is always the last one to come. Her sister will accompany her to finish the already cold dishes.To the mother and the elder sister, the tofu workshop has already become a major part of their lives.

方興玉是不會(huì)在濕熱的夏天做毛豆腐的。“桑拿天”里，人們很難控制豆腐發(fā)酵的走向。但是在其它的季節(jié)里，徽州溫潤(rùn)的環(huán)境卻能引導(dǎo)微生物們走上發(fā)酵的正軌。方興玉希望與這有關(guān)的一切，自己的女兒都能夠?qū)W習(xí)和領(lǐng)悟到。

Fang will not make hairy tofu in the sultry summer.We can't control the fermentation of tofu in sauna days.But in other seasons, the warm and humid environment in Huizhou makes microorganisms ferment properly. Fang hopes her daughter can learn and understand everything about making tofu.

這些絨毛，它們是霉菌、酵母菌和細(xì)菌們是否和諧生長(zhǎng)的指標(biāo)。這直接關(guān)系到發(fā)酵的進(jìn)程以及最終味道的鮮美與否。

The hair is actually fungi, the index showing whether the yeast and germs are growing harmoniously. It decides the progress of fermentation and whether the final product is delicious or not.

深諳美食的徽州人是毛豆腐的知音。吃法可繁可簡(jiǎn)。在老徽州眼中，一點(diǎn)辣醬就可以讓炭火上的豆腐錦上添花了。豆腐的內(nèi)部已經(jīng)大為不同了，毛霉菌分泌蛋白酶，讓大豆蛋白降解成小分子的胨類、多肽和氨基酸。這一系列轉(zhuǎn)化，賦予了豆腐異常的鮮美，這種濃郁的風(fēng)味被徽州人稱作“家鄉(xiāng)的味道”。

Huizhou people who are gourmets can truly appreciate hairy tofu. You can have it in a simple or complicated way. In the mind of old Huizhou people, a little bit of chilly sauce goes best with coal roast tofu. The interia of tofu is completely different. Mucor secretes proteinase making soy protein degrades into smaller molecules of peptones, polypeptide and amino acid. This series of transformations give tofu an incomparable flavor. Huizhou people call this strong flavor—a flavor of hometown.

菌絲間細(xì)小的顆粒是散落的孢子，那是毛豆腐成熟的標(biāo)志。聰明的中國(guó)人對(duì)這些微小生物的運(yùn)用得心應(yīng)手。事實(shí)上，這種轉(zhuǎn)化的智慧在更為久遠(yuǎn)的年代里，就已經(jīng)熠熠生輝了。

The small grains among the hypha are spores, and an indication of the hairy tofu is properly matured. The clever Chinese are profession in using the microorganisms. In fact, the wisdom of transformation sparkled early in ancient times.

酒，應(yīng)該是人們利用微生物進(jìn)行食物轉(zhuǎn)化的最早的案例了。用稻米釀出的黃酒是世界上最古老的酒類之一。立冬的清晨，紹興的天空開(kāi)始下起小雨。這對(duì)釀酒師傅們來(lái)說(shuō)，是個(gè)好征兆。酵母菌喜歡江南冬季這種綿長(zhǎng)而又不劇烈的冷。

Wine is probably the earliest case of how people transform food with microorganisms. Huangjiu, literally meaning yellow wine brewed from rice, is one of the oldest wine in the world. It's the morning of Lidong, the start of winter. It has started to drizzle in Shaoxing. It's a good sign for wine makers. Yeast favors the long but mild coldness of winter in Jiangnan, south of the lower Yangtze valley.

在酒廠的老車間里，師傅們進(jìn)進(jìn)出出，準(zhǔn)備著祭祀用的貢品。今天是請(qǐng)酒神的日子，沒(méi)有人怠慢。即便是最好的釀酒師傅，也無(wú)法保證年年都能釀出好酒，因?yàn)橛凶矫欢ǖ奶臁L(fēng)、空氣，還有菌。每一年的儀式都是釀酒師們對(duì)自然表達(dá)的一種尊重。

The wine makers go in and out of the wine workshop getting ready for tributes of the sacrifice. This is the day to worship the god of wine; no one dares to slight it, even the best wine maker can not ensure he can brew the best wine every year due to the capricious weather, wind, air and fungi. Every year, the sacrifice is for the wine makers to show their reverence for nature.

紹興的黃酒冬釀即將開(kāi)始。和紹興處在同一緯度線上同屬古越地區(qū)的安徽省休寧縣，73歲的陳進(jìn)順也在忙著釀造自家的糯米酒。對(duì)于老人來(lái)說(shuō)，做酒算不上一件難事。

Winter brewing is about to begin in Shaoxing, also located in the Guyuan region, Xiuning of Anhui is on the same latitude as Shaoxing. 73 years old Cheng Jingshun is busy brewing homemade glutinous rice wine. Brewing wine isn't difficult for old people.

富庶的江南地區(qū)，稻米是生活中不可缺少的部分。年前正是農(nóng)閑，做幾壇米酒祭神敬祖、招待客人、犒勞自己，都是自然不過(guò)的事。

In the abundant Jiangnan, rice is an indispensable part of life here. It's only natural to make several jars of wine to treat them and treat the guests as well as worship gods during the slack season of farming.

蠶繭般的酒曲是釀酒的靈魂，可以把它理解成接上了菌的種子。這些稻粉和辣蓼草的混合體，里面沉睡者形形色色的發(fā)酵菌，等待合適的時(shí)機(jī)蘇醒。

The cocoon shaped Jiuqu or fermentation starter, is the soul of wine making. Jiuqu is considered to be "the seed of yeast". A variety of the yeasts are laying in the mixture of rice powder and red….herbs. They are waiting for the perfect time to wake up.

陳進(jìn)順把碾碎的酒曲均勻地和糯米拌在一起。酒曲是中國(guó)人了不起的發(fā)明，是人們?cè)噲D捕捉和馴化微生物的最古老而有效的嘗試。這是釀酒中最重要的一步，它們將帶來(lái)轉(zhuǎn)化中最神奇的部分。

Cheng mixes the crushed Jiuqu with glutinous rice. Jiuqu is a great invention of the Chinese people, the most ancient and effective attempt of human beings at taming microorganisms. This is the most important step of making wine which will bring about the most magical part of the transformation.

拌好的糯米被撥出一個(gè)深深的酒窩，再把指縫間的每一粒米都抹進(jìn)缸中，撒上最后一把酒曲。之后的一切，都要交給時(shí)間了。那些霉菌就會(huì)把糯米中的淀粉變成糖，而酵母菌們負(fù)責(zé)把糖變成酒精。在黑暗中，仿佛傳來(lái)發(fā)酵菌們歡快的歌聲。時(shí)間越久，酒越醇香。黃酒綿長(zhǎng)而厚重，中國(guó)人可以從這一種飲品里同時(shí)品味出“柔”和“剛”兩種境界。

A deep hole is dug in the well mixed rice. Not a single grain of rice will be wasted. To distribute the last handful of Jiuqu powder, all the procedures are finished. Now we will just let time deal with the rest of the work. The moulds will change the starch into sugar. The yeast will turn the sugar into alcohol. We can almost hear the hilarious singing of yeast spreading from the darkness. The longer the time, the more fragrant the wine will become. Huangjiu's flavor is thick and strong, and it stays for long.The Chinese can taste both the "tenderness" and the "toughness" in the wine.

飲黃酒的紹興人不溫不火，他們對(duì)傳統(tǒng)的固守也有滋有味地流淌在舌尖上。紹興人離不開(kāi)醬油，這幾乎成為紹興最醒目的一種味覺(jué)標(biāo)記。什么都可以醬一醬再吃。足夠的鹽度可以讓食物在濕潮的環(huán)境里久放不壞。在醬油里翻滾過(guò)的任何食物都被賦予了濃重的醬香味，它們被本地人稱作“家鄉(xiāng)菜”。

Huangjiu-drinking Shaoxing people are mild and moderate, and their persistence to the tradition has allowed them to enjoy the time on their flavor.Almost every household in Shaoxing has soy sauce. Soy sauce is a must in the lives of the Shaoxing people, which has already become the most distinctive taste identity of Shaoxing. All the food can be braised in soy sauce. Enough salt allows food to stay fresh in humidity. Food rolled in soy sauce gives us a special aroma. Local people call it the "cuisine of home".

這里是自古的繁榮富庶之地。如今，許多人家仍然樂(lè)于枕河而居，過(guò)閑適的日子。

Historically, Shaoxing has been a prosperous and abundant land. Even today, many people love to reside by the river enjoying a relaxed life.

城外的安昌古鎮(zhèn)，街市臨水而建。正是做臘味的季節(jié)，長(zhǎng)短的竹竿上彰顯出富足。安昌的臘腸在中國(guó)的江浙一帶很有名氣。臘腸濃厚的滋味很大一部分要?dú)w功于當(dāng)?shù)蒯勗斓尼u油。醬園里，露天的空?qǐng)錾吓帕兄习僦淮T大的醬缸。五十六歲的丁國(guó)云依然身手矯健。醬料粘稠、厚重，需要人力定時(shí)的上下翻動(dòng)，醬缸內(nèi)的發(fā)酵才會(huì)均勻。在這些醬缸里，微生物的世界互相制約，此消彼長(zhǎng)。

The ancient town of Anchang, outside Shaoxing city, is built along the river. It's the season for making preserved meats. Bamboo poles of different length display their abundance. The sausage of Anchang is very famous in Zhejiang. Its good flavor is largely attributed to the locally brewed sauce. Dozens of giant jars standing in the yard of sauce shop. 56-year-old Ding Guoyun still works vigorously. The sauce is thick and stinky. Workers have to stir it with the fixed schedule to ensure the fermentation takes place evenly within the jar, and within the jar the microorganisms will restricted one another, one kind's lose is another's gain.

醬缸修修補(bǔ)補(bǔ)用了幾十年。陽(yáng)光的暴曬能夠增加菌的活力，但是雨水可能會(huì)搞砸一切。醬缸的帽子不時(shí)地被拿下來(lái)扣上去，時(shí)間就在這反復(fù)的聲響中流走。

The jars have been through many repairs during the past several decades. The direct exposure in the sun can greatly stimulate the vitality of yeast, but rain could ruin everything. Time slips always in the repeated sound of lids of jars, being moved away and put back.

“中國(guó)的醬”，在人類的發(fā)酵史上獨(dú)樹(shù)一幟，數(shù)千年間，它成就了中國(guó)人餐桌上味道的基礎(chǔ)。

The sauce of China started the trend of human beings' history of fermentation. Several thousands of years had passed, and it has become a fundamental flavor on dinning tables in China.

在中國(guó)的北方，醬的意味更加直接。王月英家的醬缸里只剩下一層缸底。足夠的鹽度，讓醬在嚴(yán)冬中也不容易結(jié)凍。在寒冷的東北，長(zhǎng)久以來(lái)鹽以醬的形式成為人們身體和心理的一種依靠。

In north China, the meaning of sauce is more straightforward. Only a little paste is left in the jar of Wang Yuying's. Enough salt ensures the sauce won't get frozen in sever winter. In chilly northeast China, quiet a long time, salt in a form of sauce, has provided a physical and psychological support for people.

再過(guò)三個(gè)月就是下新醬的時(shí)候了，但是準(zhǔn)備的工作卻要從現(xiàn)在開(kāi)始。煮熟的黃豆在鍋里直接被搗爛。在中國(guó)的東北地區(qū)，人們做醬只用大豆這一種材料。這樣的單一也是一種奢侈。

3 months later, it will be time to make new soybean paste, but the preparation work will start now. The cooked soybeans are smashed in the pot. In northeast China, soybean is the only ingredient for making sauce. The monopoly is also a luxury.

黑龍江有中國(guó)最肥沃的黑土地，這里的耕種和收獲急促而短暫，卻能出產(chǎn)最好的大豆。溫暖的火炕上，六只手合力把豆泥堆砌成型。醬的味道甚至可以成為衡量一個(gè)主婦合格與否的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。捆綁成結(jié)實(shí)的醬坯被掛上墻。在之后的兩個(gè)月里，它們靜靜的發(fā)酵，等到來(lái)年春天，再開(kāi)始更深入的轉(zhuǎn)化。

Heilongjiang province boasts the most fertile black soil in China. The farm and the harvest here is short and hasty, but the place produces the best soybeans. On the heated bed, six hands work together to pile the smashed beans into shape. The taste of the paste can even be the standard to measure whether a housewife is qualified. The tightly wrapped warm paste is hung on the wall. Over the course of the next 2 months, it will quietly ferment, and when spring arrives, the transformation will get even more dramatic.

冬季在強(qiáng)大的蒙古高壓的籠罩之下，北方的寒冷甚于版圖中的其他地區(qū)。面對(duì)嚴(yán)寒，人總有變通。在腌菜缸中經(jīng)歷30多天復(fù)雜的發(fā)酵進(jìn)程，白菜獲得了重生。北方人對(duì)酸菜的情感毫無(wú)造作。在近7個(gè)月的寒冷季節(jié)里，這種腌菜幾乎代表了一種生活的方式。用力攥出菜葉中發(fā)酵的酸水，一來(lái)去除苦澀的味道，二來(lái)使酸菜本身的質(zhì)地更加脆韌。酸菜散發(fā)出令人愉悅的開(kāi)胃的酸香味，那是乳酸的味道。發(fā)酵后，草酸被分解，產(chǎn)生了肽和氨基酸，這一切都帶來(lái)鮮美的風(fēng)味。對(duì)于酸菜來(lái)說(shuō)，絕佳的搭配是和豬肉在一起。酸菜巧妙地化解了豬肉的油膩。東北人的柴鍋里不流于精致的外在形式，它們的內(nèi)容有如東北人的性格----豪爽大方。

Under the powerful Siberian high winter in north China. It is more unbearable than any other places. Facing the sever chill, people will learn to adapt themselves. After a more than 30-day complicated fermentation, the Chinese cabbage in the jar has gained a whole new life. The northern people have an unaffected love for pickled cabbage. In the winter which lasts for nearly 7 months, the pickles have almost become a lifestyle. Squeezing out the sour water in the leaves, not only get rid of the bitterness but also make the cabbage taste crispier, the pickled cabbage gives out a pleasant and savory sour fragment that is the smell of lactic acid. After the fermentation, oxalate acid is discomposed. When dissolved in water, protein gives out peptide and amino acid which bring out this great flavor. The best partner of pickle cabbage is pork. Pickled cabbage subtly mutualizes the natural grease of pork. The caldron of northern Chinese doesn't enjoy a delicate look, but they content inside the caldron is just like the personality of the locals—straightforward and generous.

今天，孩子們要回家看望父母。一頓酸菜餡的餃子將成為今晚餐桌上的主角。

Today, the children are all come back to visit their parents. The pickled stuffed cabbage dumplings will be the main course for dinner.

時(shí)間流轉(zhuǎn)，生命紅火，這一年就這樣過(guò)去了。

Time flies as usual, and life remains prosperous. Another year has passed.