By their estimation, Celine creative director Phoebe Philo has more than enough sartorial I.Q. to work with the style. The designer has used pleats frequently in past collections, but for spring, she included them in nearly every look. Ms. Philo skirted the issue many have with pleats -- namely, that they can add bulk to the hips -- by working in airy sheer silks. When paired with long tunic-like tops that fit snugly over the hips, Ms. Philo's skirts were nowhere near bulky. They fluttered, and flattered.

Another winning solution to the pleat puzzle is simply taking a new angle. Christian Dior creative director Raf Simons did that quite literally in skirts that set pleats askew, so that they radiated out from the left hip, curving around the body and ending in a swishing fishtail behind the knees. Mr. Simons's innovative -- and complex -- pleat play included a pair of wrap-skirt-like shorts made of sharp and skinny knife pleats that were pieced with a panel of black silk. He also inset flippy floral-print pleats into the back waist of an otherwise all-business tailored black jacket, for those looking for a way to make an exciting exit.

Even with more traditional vertical pleats, there's opportunity for newness. Certainly no schoolgirl has worn rose-gold- or silver-foil-printed silk pleated skirts like those made by Proenza Schouler's designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. The skirts were inspired by handicrafts used in '70s interiors -- which included various treatments of chrome, copper and nickel. The duo went through a long process to perfect the effect. 'We tried it in 10 different matte foils and 10 different super-shiny foils and then five different metallics,' said Mr. McCollough. They also tested various pleat widths and fabrics types. 'It takes a lot of trial and error to get to a place where you're really happy with it.'

Some innovations are less visible. In his well-received '70s-sportswear-inspired collection, Michael Kors blended a touch of nylon into silk georgette in order to create a crisp and more long-lasting pleat. 'A touch of polyester mixed with natural fibers makes a huge difference,' he explained. 'You want the lightness, but you don't want to get stuck in a rainstorm in a pleated chiffon dress. The next thing you know, you're paying $600 to get it re-pleated.' Mr. Kors is a staunch pleat advocate. 'It's something that's feminine and romantic and catches the breeze,' he said. 'Obviously if you go the wrong way, you could end up in a full Britney [Spears schoolgirl] moment. But I think we're always drawn to clothes that move when we walk. They're sexy in a subtle way.'

With pleated skirts and dresses, hem length is important to get right. 'Shorter is okay when you're young and have Bambi legs. But you have to be careful,' said Paula Reed, creative director of retail website Mytheresa, which will be selling pleated pieces by Proenza Schouler, Christopher Kane and Victoria Beckham. Ms. Reed believes in the pleat's power to flatter -- when it's done right. 'Hovering on or just below the knee has that beautiful kind of Gatsby sophistication,' she said. 'A pleat will hide a multitude of sins. If you get one that's fluid, it kind of skims over and creates an ideal silhouette.'

That delicate floatiness, however, needs a grounded base. Mr. Kors advised steering clear of mincing kitten-heel sandals in favor of a chunky platform -- like the ones in his show -- or a sharp-toed stiletto. 'You need something that makes it urban,' he said. 'And unless you're 5-foot-10, a little height doesn't hurt.'