評(píng)論
打印
This summer the silk road is running in a new direction: leading not from India, but from Italy. And men's fashion – from suits to shirts, trousers and even raincoats – is being reimagined in the fabric.
今年夏天，“絲綢之路”有了全新路線：并非由印度、而是由意大利引領(lǐng)。男士時(shí)裝——從西服到襯衣、褲子甚至雨衣——都因真絲而再次充滿想象空間。
Ermenegildo Zegna's new Passion for Silk range includes sharply tailored jackets with mother-of-pearl buttons (£1,090), matching trousers (£900) and print silk shirts (£880). “Silk has amazing properties,” says Anna Zegna, image director at the Italian label. “It's versatile and luxurious, but it is also the ideal fabric to create a modern, masculine silhouette.”
杰尼亞(Ermenegildo Zegna)新推出的Passion for Silk系列包括了綴珍珠母紐扣的經(jīng)典款?yuàn)A克（售價(jià)1090英鎊），把它用來與褲子（售價(jià)900英鎊）以及印花絲綢襯衣（售價(jià)880英鎊）相搭配?！敖z綢具有神奇的特性，”意大利品牌杰尼亞形象總監(jiān)安娜•杰尼亞(Anna Zegna)說?！八δ芏鄻?，豪華奢侈，但它也是打造現(xiàn)代陽剛男裝的理想面料?！?/div>
Etro, too, showed a large number of silk jackets and suits for spring/summer in everything from bold paisley patterns to conservative plain shades of blue-grey in rougher finishes. Silk “is both practical and esoteric”, says creative director Kean Etro. “It takes colour like no other material and adds richness to the cloth; you can achieve all sorts of effects with it. It can be rough or smooth, dull or shiny.”
今年春夏季，埃特羅(Etro)也推出了很多款真絲夾克及西服，從風(fēng)格大膽的佩斯里印花(Paisley Pattern)款到傳統(tǒng)的簡(jiǎn)約型藍(lán)灰暗紋糙面款式，一應(yīng)俱全。真絲“既實(shí)用又神秘”，埃特羅創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)基恩•埃特羅(Kean Etro)說?！八慕o色效果最出色，同時(shí)又能增加面料的華麗，可以呈現(xiàn)出各種效果。它既能糙，又能滑爽；既能陰暗又能光彩照人?！?/div>
But will men really wear silk? Aside from the usual feminine associations, it isn't, despite Etro's claims to practicality, the easiest of fabrics to care for: it stains, wrinkles and let's not mention the dry-cleaning bills.
但男士會(huì)真愿意穿真絲衣服嗎？盡管埃特羅一再強(qiáng)調(diào)其實(shí)用性，但除了常把真絲用作女性服裝面料外，伺候它并不容易：它不耐臟，容易起皺，更甭提還有不菲的干洗費(fèi)用。
Zegna clearly believes the answer is “yes”. Indeed, in 2009, the group put its investment where its fibres were, and acquired Tessitura di Novara, a company based in northern Italy that has been producing silks since 1932. Now, together with the main Zegna manufacturing base, the silk range can be spun, dyed, woven and finished entirely in-house.
杰尼亞明確認(rèn)為男士會(huì)喜歡真絲服裝。2009年，它甚至出資收購了自己的真絲面料供應(yīng)商Tessitura di Novara公司，該公司位于意大利北部地區(qū)，自1923年以來一起生產(chǎn)各種絲綢面料。如今，與杰尼亞主要的制造基地精誠(chéng)合作，從制紗、染色、針織到最終面料的整個(gè)絲綢生產(chǎn)過程完全在公司內(nèi)部完成。
“It was just after we had just finished the current collection that I saw the Passion for Silk campaign from Zegna,” says Etro. “I'm sure people think we get together and decide these things in advance, but I promise you we don't!”
“我們剛剛制作完成當(dāng)前真絲系列后，才看到杰尼亞的Passion for Silk系列產(chǎn)品的推介活動(dòng)，”埃特羅說。“我確信大家會(huì)覺得我們兩家是提前合起伙來決定的這些事，但我向你保證我們并沒有這么做！”
In London, Savile Row tailor Richard James has noticed increased demand for silk over the past couple of years, particularly from bespoke customers. “I'm not sure that men have ever thought of silk as being overly feminine,” he says. “Silk pocket squares, silk linings, silk ties, silk shirts, silk socks ... I'd say men have always embraced silk and used it very cleverly as a means of self-expression. Silk adds a bit of dressiness, so it's perfect for evening wear.”
在倫敦，薩維爾街(Savile Row)裁縫師理查德•詹姆斯(Richard James)注意到真絲需求在過去幾年呈上升趨勢(shì)，尤以定制客戶為甚?！澳惺渴欠裨颜娼z看作專屬女性的面料，我不敢肯定，”他說?！翱诖媒z綢方巾、真絲里襯、真絲領(lǐng)帶、真絲襯衣、真絲襪子……我想說男士一直喜歡絲綢，也一直巧妙地把它用來表現(xiàn)自我。真絲可以增添一絲時(shí)髦感，因此用作晚裝再合適不過了?！?/div>
Silk is also one way to make a statement – see Tom Ford's lilac tuxedo jacket (£2,000), main picture, or Burberry Prorsum's blue metallic raincoat (£1,895).
真絲也是品牌展露心跡的方式——諸位看看湯姆•福特(Tom Ford)推出的淡紫色燕尾服外套（售價(jià)2000英鎊）以及巴寶莉-珀松(Burberry Prorsum)推出的發(fā)亮款藍(lán)色雨衣（售價(jià)1895英鎊）便一清二楚了。
So what about caring for silk? “It's not really more difficult to care for than any other luxury fabric,” says James. “But you've got to look after it. It's not polyester!” Etro, meanwhile, insists that silk is “the hardest-working” of all fabrics, citing its versatility.
那么該如何伺候真絲料呢？“真絲料也并不比其它奢侈面料難伺候，”詹姆斯說?！暗惚仨毢煤灭B(yǎng)護(hù)，它可不是聚酯面料！”與此同時(shí)，埃特羅堅(jiān)持真絲是所有面料中“用途最廣泛”，他指的是它的功能多樣。
If pure silk still proves too much of a sartorial leap, it is an easier sell when mixed with other traditional fabrics. “We often mix it with some wool, to give it body, or cotton for a more casual look,” Etro says.
如果說用純真絲料做服裝以實(shí)現(xiàn)巨大飛躍還任重道遠(yuǎn)的話，那么與其它傳統(tǒng)面料混紡后，銷售起來則要順利得多?！拔覀兂０阉c羊毛混紡，以增加形體感；要不就把它與棉混紡，以營(yíng)造更為休閑的風(fēng)格，”埃特羅說。
James agrees: “Mixing silk with linen, wool or cotton gives it more structure and makes it easier to work with. It adds a defining edge to a fabric, giving it lustre, which makes for a clean silhouette. Wool and silk blends are popular this season. As are linen and silk blends; the earthiness of linen combines beautifully with the sharpness of silk.”
詹姆斯對(duì)此也表示贊同：“把真絲與亞麻布、羊毛或是棉布混紡，紋理感更強(qiáng)，也更容易伺候；同時(shí)增加了面料的棱角感，光澤感也更明顯，穿上后顯得有板有眼。羊毛與真絲混紡料是今年春夏季的流行面料，亞麻布與真絲混紡面料也是如此，亞麻布的質(zhì)樸與真絲的時(shí)髦珠聯(lián)璧合，相得益彰。”
Silk-mix fabrics that work for every day include navy blazers in a 92 per cent silk/8 per cent linen mix from Piombo (£1,085); one-button blazers in a linen, wool and silk blend from Brioni (£1,435); soft grey single-breasted jackets in a cashmere and silk blend from Loro Piana (£2,195); and jackets in equal amounts of cotton and silk from Sandro (£410).
適合每天穿的真絲混合料服裝有Piombo推出的深藍(lán)色運(yùn)動(dòng)夾克（92%的真絲與8%的亞麻布，售價(jià)1085英鎊），布萊奧尼(Brioni)推出的單?？圻\(yùn)動(dòng)夾克（由亞麻布、羊毛以及真絲混紡面料制作而成，售價(jià)1435英鎊），羅洛•皮雅納(Loro Piana)推出的柔灰色單排扣夾克（由羊絨與真絲混紡面料制作而成，售價(jià)2195英鎊），以及桑德羅推出的、棉與真絲各占一半的夾克衫（售價(jià)410英鎊）。
So, check the label of your summer jacket: you could just be wearing a touch of this season's most sought-after fabric and not even know it.
所以，請(qǐng)諸位不妨瞧一下自己夏季夾克的標(biāo)簽：您可能穿著今年春夏季最流行的面料，而自己仍蒙在鼓里呢！
| 重點(diǎn)單詞 | 查看全部解釋 | |||
| smooth | [smu:ð] |
想一想再看 adj. 平穩(wěn)的，流暢的，安祥的，圓滑的，攪拌均勻的，可 |
||
| bold | [bəuld] |
想一想再看 adj. 大膽的，粗體的，醒目的，無禮的，陡峭的 |
||
| sartorial | [sɑ:'tɔ:riəl] |
想一想再看 adj. 裁縫的，縫紉的 |
聯(lián)想記憶 | |
| row | [rəu,rau] |
想一想再看 n. 排，船游，吵鬧 |
||
| trousers | ['trauzəz] |
想一想再看 n. 褲子 |
||
| wool | [wul] |
想一想再看 n. 羊毛，毛線，毛織品 |
||
| passion | ['pæʃən] |
想一想再看 n. 激情，酷愛 |
聯(lián)想記憶 | |
| rough | [rʌf] |
想一想再看 adj. 粗糙的，粗略的，粗暴的，艱難的，討厭的，不適的 |
||
| range | [reindʒ] |
想一想再看 n. 范圍，行列，射程，山脈，一系列 |
||
| traditional | [trə'diʃənəl] |
想一想再看 adj. 傳統(tǒng)的 |
- 閱讀本文的人還閱讀了：
