He had a better time when he took the train to see the distributor in Turin, where the Italian pastas and his host’s camaraderie were more simpatico. “I had a wonderful couple of weeks in Turin, which is this charged-up industrial town,” he recalled. “The distributor took me every night to dinner at this place where there were only eight tables and no menu. You’d just tell them what you wanted, and they made it. One of the tables was on reserve for the chairman of Fiat. It was really super.” He next went to Lugano, Switzerland, where he stayed with Friedland’s uncle, and from there took a flight to India.

他乘火車來(lái)到都靈見(jiàn)批發(fā)商后，日子好過(guò)了一點(diǎn)兒，意大利面和主人的熱情招待讓他很高興。“我在都靈度過(guò)了很美妙的幾個(gè)星期，這是座充滿活力的工業(yè)城市，”他回憶說(shuō)，“那個(gè)批發(fā)商是個(gè)很棒的人。他每天晚上都帶我去一個(gè)地方吃飯，那兒只有八張桌子，沒(méi)有菜單。你只需要告訴他們自己想吃什么，他們就會(huì)給你做。其中一張桌子是為菲亞特的董事長(zhǎng)預(yù)留的。那個(gè)地方真是太好了。”接下來(lái)他去了瑞士的盧加諾，見(jiàn)了弗里德蘭的叔叔，然后從瑞士搭航班到了印度。

When he got off the plane in New Delhi, he felt waves of heat rising from the tarmac, even though it was only April. He had been given the name of a hotel, but it was full, so he went to one his taxi driver insisted was good. “I’m sure he was getting some baksheesh, because he took me to this complete dive.” Jobs asked the owner whether the water was filtered and foolishly believed the answer. “I got dysentery pretty fast. I was sick, really sick, a really high fever. I dropped from 160 pounds to 120 in about a week.”

到了新德里，一下飛機(jī)，喬布斯就感覺(jué)到跑道上揚(yáng)起的陣陣熱浪，盡管那時(shí)候才四月份。之前有人給了他一家酒店的名字，但是那家酒店客滿了，所以他去了出租車司機(jī)竭力推薦的另一家。“我敢肯定他拿了酒店的小費(fèi)，因?yàn)槟堑胤綄?shí)在太糟糕了。”喬布斯問(wèn)老板酒店里的水是否過(guò)濾過(guò)，并且傻乎乎地相信了他的回答。“我很快就得了痢疾，我病了，病得很嚴(yán)重，發(fā)高燒，一個(gè)星期內(nèi)我的體重從160磅掉到了120磅。”

Once he got healthy enough to move, he decided that he needed to get out of Delhi. So he headed to the town of Haridwar, in western India near the source of the Ganges, which was having a festival known as the Kumbh Mela. More than ten million people poured into a town that usually contained fewer than 100,000 residents. “There were holy men all around. Tents with this teacher and that teacher. There were people riding elephants, you name it. I was there for a few days, but I decided that I needed to get out of there too.”

等他恢復(fù)到可以行動(dòng)的時(shí)候，他決定離開(kāi)新德里。于是他去了印度北部城市赫爾德瓦爾，那里靠近恒河的源頭，每三年就會(huì)有一次盛大的宗教集會(huì)。恰巧，1974年舉行的是12年一輪的最大規(guī)模的集會(huì)，被稱為“大壺節(jié)”（KumbhaMela）。超過(guò)1000萬(wàn)人涌進(jìn)了這座常住人口不到10萬(wàn)、面積接近帕洛奧圖的小鑌。“到處都是教徒，帳篷里住著這個(gè)導(dǎo)師、那個(gè)導(dǎo)師。還有人騎著大象，無(wú)奇不有。我在那兒待了幾天之后決定離開(kāi)。”

He went by train and bus to a village near Nainital in the foothills of the Himalayas. That was where Neem Karoli Baba lived, or had lived. By the time Jobs got there, he was no longer alive, at least in the same incarnation. Jobs rented a room with a mattress on the floor from a family who helped him recuperate by feeding him vegetarian meals. “There was a copy there of Autobiography of a Yogi in English that a previous traveler had left, and I read it several times because there was not a lot to do, and I walked around from village to village and recovered from my dysentery.” Among those who were part of the community there was Larry Brilliant, an epidemiologist who was working to eradicate smallpox and who later ran Google’s philanthropic arm and the Skoll Foundation. He became Jobs’s lifelong friend.

他換乘火車和公共汽車來(lái)到了喜馬拉雅山腳下，一座靠近奈尼塔爾（Nainital）的村莊。那里是尼姆·卡羅里大師居住（或者曾經(jīng)居住過(guò)）的地方。喬布斯到達(dá)那里的時(shí)候，大師巳經(jīng)不在人世了，至少不在今世。喬布斯從一戶人家那里租下了一個(gè)房間，房間的地上有一塊床墊。這戶人家給他吃素食，幫他恢復(fù)了健康。“之前的一個(gè)旅行者留下了一本英文版的《一個(gè)瑜伽行者的自傳》，我讀了好幾遍，因?yàn)橐矝](méi)什么其他可千的事。我在各個(gè)村落之間游蕩，痢疾癥狀也消失了。”一起在此處?kù)o修的有一個(gè)叫做拉里·布里連特（LarryBrilliant）的流行病學(xué)家，他在印度致力于根除天花，后來(lái)負(fù)責(zé)管理谷歌的慈善機(jī)構(gòu)以及斯科爾（Skoll）基金會(huì)。他成為了喬布斯的終生好友。

At one point Jobs was told of a young Hindu holy man who was holding a gathering of his followers at the Himalayan estate of a wealthy businessman. “It was a chance to meet a spiritual being and hang out with his followers, but it was also a chance to have a good meal. I could smell the food as we got near, and I was very hungry.” As Jobs was eating, the holy man—who was not much older than Jobs—picked him out of the crowd, pointed at him, and began laughing maniacally. “He came running over and grabbed me and made a tooting sound and said, ‘You are just like a baby,’” recalled Jobs. “I was not relishing this attention.” Taking Jobs by the hand, he led him out of the worshipful crowd and walked him up to a hill, where there was a well and a small pond. “We sit down and he pulls out this straight razor. I’m thinking he’s a nutcase and begin to worry. Then he pulls out a bar of soap—I had long hair at the time—and he lathered up my hair and shaved my head. He told me that he was saving my health.”

有一次，喬布斯聽(tīng)說(shuō)一個(gè)年輕的印度教圣人要舉辦信徒聚會(huì)，地點(diǎn)是一名富商位于喜馬拉雅山脈的住處。“我有機(jī)會(huì)遇到一個(gè)有靈性的人并且和他的信徒交流，也有機(jī)會(huì)好好吃上一頓。我們走近房子的時(shí)候就能聞到食物的香味兒了，我非常餓。”喬布斯在吃的時(shí)候，那位圣人——其實(shí)也不比喬布斯大幾歲——從人群中選中了他，指著他，然后開(kāi)始瘋了一樣地大笑。“他跑過(guò)來(lái)，抓住我，發(fā)出兩聲‘嘟嘟’聲，然后說(shuō)：‘你就像個(gè)小孩一樣。’”喬布斯回憶道，“我并不喜歡他的這些舉動(dòng)。”圣人抓著喬布斯的手，帶他離開(kāi)了那群虔誠(chéng)的信眾，走上了一處高地，那兒有一口井和一小方池塘。“我們坐下來(lái)，他拿出了一把剃刀。我以為他是個(gè)瘋子，開(kāi)始有點(diǎn)兒擔(dān)心，這時(shí)候他又拿出了一塊肥皂——我當(dāng)時(shí)留著長(zhǎng)發(fā)——他給我的頭發(fā)打上肥皂，然后給我剃了個(gè)光頭。他告訴我他是在拯救我的健康。”

Daniel Kottke arrived in India at the beginning of the summer, and Jobs went back to New Delhi to meet him. They wandered, mainly by bus, rather aimlessly. By this point Jobs was no longer trying to find a guru who could impart wisdom, but instead was seeking enlightenment through ascetic experience, deprivation, and simplicity. He was not able to achieve inner calm. Kottke remembers him getting into a furious shouting match with a Hindu woman in a village marketplace who, Jobs alleged, had been watering down the milk she was selling them.

丹尼爾·科特基在那年的初夏到了印度，喬布斯回到新德里去見(jiàn)他。他們坐著公共汽車，漫無(wú)目的地晃悠。這個(gè)時(shí)候，喬布斯已經(jīng)不是在尋找傳授智慧的導(dǎo)師了，而是在通過(guò)苦行體驗(yàn)、感官剝離和返璞歸真尋求啟蒙。他做不到內(nèi)心的平和。科特基記得他曾在村里的集市上與一個(gè)印度婦女有過(guò)一次激烈的爭(zhēng)吵，喬布斯稱這個(gè)女人在她出售的牛奶里摻了水。

Yet Jobs could also be generous. When they got to the town of Manali, Kottke’s sleeping bag was stolen with his traveler’s checks in it. “Steve covered my food expenses and bus ticket back to Delhi,” Kottke recalled. He also gave Kottke the rest of his own money, $100, to tide him over.

但喬布斯有時(shí)候也很大方。他們來(lái)到靠近中國(guó)西藏的馬納里鎮(zhèn)（Manali），科特基的睡袋被偷了，他的旅行支票也在里面。“史蒂夫承擔(dān)了我的飲食開(kāi)銷，還給我買了回新德里的車票。”科特基回憶說(shuō)。他還把自己剩下的100美元都給了科特基，幫他渡過(guò)難關(guān)。

During his seven months in India, he had written to his parents only sporadically, getting mail at the American Express office in New Delhi when he passed through, and so they were somewhat surprised when they got a call from the Oakland airport asking them to pick him up. They immediately drove up from Los Altos. “My head had been shaved, I was wearing Indian cotton robes, and my skin had turned a deep, chocolate brown-red from the sun,” he recalled. “So I’m sitting there and my parents walked past me about five times and finally my mother came up and said ‘Steve?’ and I said ‘Hi!’”

在印度待了7個(gè)月后，那年秋天喬布斯啟程回家，途中在倫敦逗留，拜訪了一個(gè)他原本想在印度碰面的女人，然后從倫敦搭乘一班便宜的航班回到了奧克蘭。在印度期間，他只零星地給父母寫(xiě)過(guò)幾次信——那是他經(jīng)過(guò)新德里時(shí)到美國(guó)運(yùn)通公司駐當(dāng)?shù)剞k事處取郵件的時(shí)候——所以當(dāng)接到他從奧克蘭機(jī)場(chǎng)打來(lái)的電話讓他們?nèi)ソ铀臅r(shí)候，他的父母還很驚訝。他們立刻從洛斯阿爾托斯開(kāi)車出發(fā)。“我的頭發(fā)被剃光了，身上穿著印度棉袍子，皮膚也被曬成了又黑又紅的顏色，”他回憶說(shuō)，“所以我坐在那兒，他們倆從我身邊走過(guò)了差不多5次，媽媽才終于走上來(lái)說(shuō)：‘史蒂夫嗎？’我說(shuō)：‘嗨！’”

They took him back home, where he continued trying to find himself. It was a pursuit with many paths toward enlightenment. In the mornings and evenings he would meditate and study Zen, and in between he would drop in to audit physics or engineering courses at Stanford.

喬布斯被帶回了洛斯阿爾托斯的家，在那里試著找回自己。他會(huì)通過(guò)各種途徑來(lái)追求精神啟蒙。早上和晚上他會(huì)冥想和禪修，其他時(shí)間會(huì)去斯坦福大學(xué)旁聽(tīng)物理學(xué)或者工程學(xué)的課程。