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When you look at a surfer sitting on his board waiting to catch a wave,
你看著一個沖浪者站在板上等待著捕捉海浪
something strange happens.
奇怪的現象發生了
Although the wave moves forward, the surfer doesn't go with it.
雖然海浪向后移動沖浪者卻沒有跟著向后
The wave just passes through
海浪只是涌過來
Lifting the water and the surfer up and down in the process.
拱起水面，沖浪者跟著上上下下
In effect, the ocean's just transferring the energy of the waves
實際上海洋只是在傳遞海浪的能量
to the water in front of it.
傳遞給前面的海浪
And this movement of energy is so efficient
這種能量運動非常高效
it would carry on pretty much forever if the land didn't get in the way.
如果沒有陸地擋住去路它可能永遠進行下去
When the wave arrives at the shore, the water becomes shallow.
海浪到達海岸時，水變的很淺
so the base of the wave slows down.
所以浪底慢下來
But the top runs on ahead until the inevitable happens.
但是浪尖仍然向前直到發生不可避免的現象
The peak topples over, creating the breaking wave.
浪尖翻轉，形成了碎浪
This is the moment when the energy captured from the wind in the distant mid-ocean is finally unleashed.
就在這一刻 海洋遙遠中部從風中捕捉到的能量 才終于得以釋放
